The final block of questions are the tough ones for me, and the place where I feel I have the least confidence in my decisions. After all, we're getting to the meat of this discussion. The answers I pose to these questions are filled with doubt, so correct me or critique my thought processes if you think I'm wrong.

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6) What board textures are favorable/unfavorable?
6a) What boards hit your range hard vs those that hit your hand hard?
7) How does stack sizing or SPR affect post-flop play of these hands?
8) In what circumstances is building the pot favorable to playing a small pot?

OESFD = Open Ended Straight Flush Draw
DGSFD = Double Gutter Straight Flush Draw

6) Big made hands on the flop, OESFDs, and DGSFD's are most favorable, of course, but come at a low frequency. Next is OESDs and DGs on rainbow boards, immediately followed by the same draws on 2-suited boards, and FD's (the 8+ out boards). Then rainbow boards that give Hero 1 pair (the 5 out boards). Finally, least favorable are broadway heavy boards, and suited boards that miss Hero's suit.

6a) My range depends on whether or not I called into a limped pot, called a PFR or PFR'd myself. The broadway boards become more bluffable when I was the aggressor. The suited boards become more bluffable when I entered passively.

7) I'm clueless on this one. I could guess, but it'd be just that. Help please!

8) Small hands play small pots. I keep it small with 1 and 2 pair hands and even sets with a paired board on the flop (It's so obv. what I have it's hard to get paid by worse if they call the flop.). When I make a set with a 2-outer on the turn or river, it's a better spot to build the pot. With a flush, it has to be a 3-flush on the board at the turn before I make a stack-committing bet. I will bet to price out draws and call with a made flush on the flop or turn, but I'm not trying to get it all-in until the river. All of this is because these hands have kicker problems. Flopping 2 pair is a good spot to build the pot and any straight that uses both cards is so sneaky that building is optimal almost every time (I slow down when the turn or river pairs the board).

If I entered the pot passively, I'm going to continue playing passive unless I have a made hand or a big draw. This would include a ~50% chance to float a 1 pair hand, depending on the villain. If I was the pre-flop aggressor, then I'm going to C-bet ~75% of the time, and re-evaluating on the turn. At 5NL, I tend to fold to any donk bets w/o a specific read or a big draw.