bankroll question

[KillThatInfidel]

I play tourneys and sngs and want to start playing cash as well.
My question is if i need a BR for each, or if they can all figure into 1.
For example, if i have 1k BR, can i play 10$ tourney, 22$ sngs and .25/.50 6 max cash games? Or do i need 1k for each?
This is a bit muddled, hopefully someone understands.

[meeloche]

if i have 1k BR, I can play 10$ tourney, 22$ sngs and .25/.50 6 max cash games

That would be a general guideline, its all about the amount of risk you are prepared to take.

[badgers]

Yes, that's what I do!

[Shep]

With the limits that your talking about playing, one BR of 1K is more than enough. Just dedicate 33% of the BR toward each game. Thats 33 $10 tounys, 15 $22 Sng and plenty left over for live action. Unless you never book a winner in any of these, you should building your BR up!
Good Luck,
-Shep!

[Whisperz]

Yes that should work fine. I don't agree with putting 33% towards each. I think you should just be playing with one big roll because its easier to manage. That 1k roll is pretty large for the limits you plan on playing. With a 1k roll if you trust yourself enough you can get away with playing the $25 MTT, $30-$55 SNG, & some cash (either .50/$1 or .25/.50). It's all about what you feel comfortable playing.

[Robb]

if i have 1k BR, I can play 10$ tourney, 22$ sngs and .25/.50 6 max cash games

That would be a general guideline, its all about the amount of risk you are prepared to take.

There has recently been a great discussion of br management for cash games here:

http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/...nt-t64610.html

I only play one type of poker at a time, so my single $800 roll can handle the SnG's, the occasional PLO acid trip, and so forth. As long as I'm using standard br guideline WITH STOP LOSS/MOVE DOWN CRITERIA, it's all good.

What I would caution against is playing three MTT's, two SnG's and 4 tables of 6-max NL50 simultaneously. A single 1k roll can most assuredly NOT handle that. You can multitable, but you need to have guidelines for that, too. I will discuss stop-loss/move down criteria and multitabling to explain how it works for me.

A solid STOP LOSS/MOVE DOWN CRITERIA has saved my roll twice in the last month, and not following precise guidelines got me broke a couple of times before I became a winning player. I recently took two shots at NL25 with a $750 roll. My criteria was to play NL25 as long as I had $600 or more, then move down. The first time, I went back to NL10 after hitting about $630, rebuilt the $750 and tried again. I broke even for a couple thousand hands, then had some serious negative variance + donkey moves + tilt. I crashed down to $590, and swore off NL25 until I both improved my game AND had a 1k roll to stake my next NL25 shot with.

When I'm multitabling, I allow myself as many buy-ins as possible as long as losing everything on every table would leave me above my stop-loss/move down level. So... I would play (up to) 6 tables of NL25 when I had $750. When I lost a bit, say down to $700, I would play only 4 tables at a time. (BTW, I usually play 4 tables or less when I'm trying to learn stuff/move to a new level, but this is for illustration.)

I don't know what other folks here do, but you need to develop some criteria that YOU FOLLOW ABSOLUTELY. I used to see the guidelines kind of like rules in high school - the kind made to be broken. But the br guidelines are different. They are contracts we make with ourselves to protect our resources for playing and to encourage a continued, steep learning curve. "Breaking" the br guidelines is silly - the only person being hurt by that is you.

Check out spoon's rant on how br NON-managers are donators, here:

http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/...nt-t64845.html