Trip 5's fill up...your line? (HH help please)

Usual crowd at this level...couple Ax loose-passives, couple complete noobs, one or two maniacs, me, and a couple "pros." I think I played this fine after the flop and on fourth street, but my question is, was the push on the river too much. I did get a call from one of the "pros" so it paid off nicely for me, but I think a lot of times I lose customers here...thoughts?

Care to post the HH or something?

{This post has been removed}

Ultimate Bet No-Limit Hold'em, $.10 BB (10 handed) FTR converter on zerodivide.cx

CO ($2.80)
Button ($10)
SB ($7.20)
BB ($9.05)
UTG ($7.55)
UTG+1 ($4.45)
Hero ($4.10)
MP1 ($11.42)
MP2 ($6.37)
MP3 ($3.65)

Preflop: Hero is UTG+2 with 5, 5.
1 fold, Hero calls $0.10, 1 fold, MP2 calls $0.10, 1 fold, CO calls $0.10, Button calls $0.10, 1 fold, BB checks.

Flop: ($0.55) A, 5, 9 (6 players)
BB checks, Hero checks, MP2 bets $0.25, CO folds, Button calls $0.25, BB folds, Hero calls $0.25.

Turn: ($1.30) 9 (4 players)
Hero checks, MP2 checks, Button bets $0.5, Hero raises to $1, MP2 calls $1, Button calls $0.50.

River: ($4.30) 6 (4 players)
Hero bets $2.75 (All-In), MP2 folds, Button calls $2.75.

Final Pot: $9.80

Sorry, computers still baffle me...

First thing you want to look at when flopping a set is how coordinated the flop board is. The problem with slow playing a set past the flop on coordinated boards is that your opponent puts you on the board (thinks you have a flush or straight). Sometimes they even have a flush or straight themself. It's often better to play it quickly, since any opponent you want paying you off has top pair or better, and is not drawing. You don't want the guy who is drawing in the hand with you (unless he vastly overpays), because practically speaking, your set has a lot of reverse implied odds. It's very hard to release.

The reason I say this is because the turn 9 not only gave you a full house (yah!), but also decreased your implied odds (oh shit!). That is to say your opponent may think it's reasonable you hung around with a 9 on that flop, and then caught trips. This of course was just bad luck. The flop was very favorable for a slow play, and you were right to do so. You have to think on your feet however. When the second 9 comes you can't decide to come alive on it. Your opponent will put you on it, since the flop action would suggest it's reasonable you hung around with second pair. Instead it's better in this case to continue slowplaying until the river with such a strong hand.

Originally Posted by Rondavu

First thing you want to look at when flopping a set is how coordinated the flop board is. The problem with slow playing a set past the flop on coordinated boards is that your opponent puts you on the board (thinks you have a flush or straight). Sometimes they even have a flush or straight themself. It's often better to play it quickly, since any opponent you want paying you off has top pair or better, and is not drawing. You don't want the guy who is drawing in the hand with you (unless he vastly overpays), because practically speaking, your set has a lot of reverse implied odds. It's very hard to release.

The reason I say this is because the turn 9 not only gave you a full house (yah!), but also decreased your implied odds (oh shit!). That is to say your opponent may think it's reasonable you hung around with a 9 on that flop, and then caught trips. This of course was just bad luck. The flop was very favorable for a slow play, and you were right to do so. You have to think on your feet however. When the second 9 comes you can't decide to come alive on it. Your opponent will put you on it, since the flop action would suggest it's reasonable you hung around with second pair. Instead it's better in this case to continue slowplaying until the river with such a strong hand.

Slow play to the river? Don't you know that the donks who will pay you off are the ones who want to draw to that third ace to beat your trip nines?
People at that level WILL do that.