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cj,
be careful. the advice on FTR is usually outstanding, but in your thread you have players commenting who prefer playing with deep stacks. there are several styles to play when buying in.
1) Deep stacked usually buys in for the max and tries to outplay you post flop.
2) Short stacked buys in for the min and doesn't like having to make decisions on multiple streets. for me, these guys are a pain to outplay because they force me to make a critical decision too early. you eventually get them, but you have to slow down and tighten up against them.
3)(my preference) buy in w/ 75% of the buy in. a lot of people cover you making it easy to get all your money in when you have a great hand, but you don't have enough money to really intimidate somebody from calling your preflop raises. you also DO have enough to play bigger draws(only with odds) past the flop w/o having to commit everything too early in the hand only to miss your draw.
all have their strengths and picking one is a matter of personality.
i would suggest you adhere to bankroll standards when thinking about moving up a level because you don't want a 3 buy-in downswing(which will happen no matter how good you are) to put you "on the rail." even if that doesn't wipe you out completely, it will alter the way you play and have you questioning everything you thought you knew in life.
i read that there is no noticeable difference form $10NL all the way up to $100NL. and, although, all levels may be bad, each increase does get tougher...if only slightly. and the higher you go the more chances you create for yourself to bump into a better player than yourself.
although you sound like a fundamentally sound player(already above most) you need to log about 7500+ hands at a given level and track your win rate(BB/100 hands) before considering a "promotion." sounds like you are "funded" well enough to DABBLE with $25NL(10 buy-ins), but remember you're on a rush of good cards right now. don't be afraid to step down if things don't go so well due to VARIANCE(bad luck).
i played $10 for a long time. built my roll to $200, made the jump, and it worked out for me. but i had played 15,000+ hands at $10 and was beating the game at 14 BB's per 100 hands. and even then, i was ready to step back down to $10 if i went on a downswing...fortunately, that didn't happen right away, but it did after i had built the roll to withstand it.
hope this helps.
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