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top 11 mistakes of live limit players

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  1. #1

    Default top 11 mistakes of live limit players

    Fnord has a nice post in the digest on "why you suck at limit". I thought I'd do a follow-up post based on what I see playing live. These are the most common mistakes players make in live games in California. If you have any of these leaks, plug them:

    1. Too much slowplay. This is actually the thing that inspired me to post this. Today, a pretty nitty player raised pre-flop, was called by a couple of players, and flopped AKQ rainbow. He checked the flop, and checked again on the turn. When he finally bet his set of kings on the river, one of his opponents had runner-runnered a flush.

    I see this all the time. It is a huge leak to automatically slowplay big hands. Slowplay is usually a -EV play, both because it results in less bets in the pot and also because it gives villains free cards to suck out on you (or to get into a position where they have a better draw and can call the turn and hit it on the river). Slowplay is only +EV when villains are highly unlikely to suck out and they are likely to put more bets in on later streets and whereas they will fold or put in less bets if you bet the flop. This happens, but it doesn't happen nearly as often as players think.

    2. Fearing monsters under the bed, especially when the monsters do not seem to be within a player's range. Today, I was in the BB at a 4-8 table while waiting for my seat in 8-16, and I had Q2. Flop was QJT, I bet, and got one caller from middle position. Turn was a 2, I bet again, middle position called. River was a T, I checked, middle position checked. Middle position turned over AK(!!!!). Leaving aside the stupid pre-flop limp, think about this. Are you really afraid I have a full house after I checked the river? This player is ahead 999 times out of 1000 in that situation, and I'm calling heads up with queens and tens! Bet!

    If the only hands that beat you are monsters, be very aggressive unless and until there is strong evidence that the monsters exist.

    3. Being unwilling to fold or call down good hands that are obviously beat. This is the opposite of monsters under the bed. But if you have AhAd, the board is Ks9s8s6s7c, and there's a bet and a raise on the river from two non-insane players, fold your aces. You're beat. Guess what? Sometimes pocket aces lose.

    Remember, bets on the turn and river are twice as large as bets on the flop. So while it's important to call down hands when you are getting decent odds to call, it can be very costly to call down raised pots on the turn and the river. Be realistic about your hand's chances when you need to call 2 bets on the later streets.

    4. Chasing with 2 pair against an obvious flush or straight without correct pot / implied odds. This is a subset of the "unwilling to fold good hands" syndrome. It's usually fine to call with any set or trips against an obvious flush or straight, as these hands have 10 outs. Two pair only has 4 outs, though. This means that you need 11-1 to call. Lots of pots don't get to 11BB on the turn, and if you need to call 2BB, very few pots get to 22BB at that point.

    5. Playing too many suited cards pre-flop. Suited cards have about a 1 in 11 chance of flopping a flush draw. It doesn't happen that often. That means the other 10 of 11 times, you are playing a crappy hand that, even if it hits the flop, is going to make a lot of second-best hands. Yes, in a very loose game, you can open up your range with respect to playing suited cards in late position. But I see way too much J5s in middle position, or 94s against a blind steal.

    6. Having too wide a range for defending blinds in tight games. This costs players a lot of money and they aren't even aware of it. There's a type of player who is, for whatever reason, truly offended that anyone would ever take any of THEIR money with a trash hand and position. So they are resolved to never let it happen. They call, or even 3-bet, with lousy hands, because dad-gummit, they are never going to let you steal their blinds.

    Your blind-defense range should be a couple of shades narrower than the likely stealing range of the guy attempting the blind steal. Why? Because you are out of position. Blind defense isn't an excuse to play trash cards out of position. Because they are still trash cards out of position.

    Some players try to seize the initiative by 3-betting, but that just costs you more chips. In addition, even if you have the initiative, the other guy still has position, which means he gets the last word. You can spew a lot of chips 3-betting the blind steal and then betting all 3 streets, only to get raised on the river when the emperor had no clothes.

    It's OK. Let them steal your blinds every now and then. It's part of the game. When you have a hand that's ahead of their blind-stealing range, THEN defend. And if you hit the flop, devise a plan to extract the maximum of chips from the blind stealer. But don't defend just because you think it's crappy that some guy is raising you with K7o. That's part of the game.

    7. Playing too many unsuited connectors in loose games. There are, of course, games that are so loose that these become playable. The reality is, if you are at a table of fish and all 6 players limp in front of you, and you know that the SB and the BB are just calling and checking, you can practically play anything. But unsuited connectors (other than broadways) are pretty lousy in 3- or 4-way pot. And if you get raised, you end up putting in a couple of bets on a trash hand that isn't going to hit a lot of flops.

    8. Misplaying AK. First of all, if AK isn't in your raising range, it needs to be. It needs to be in your 3-betting and capping range too, unless you have a pretty specific read that the player raising in front of you has a very narrow raising range.

    Second, if you hit the flop, AK automatically gives you top pair and top kicker. And even if it was a raised or 3-bet or capped pot, the chances of anyone having AA or KK are very small if you hit an A or a K. Usually, they have queens or jacks or tens or AQ or something. Bet the flop! Raise the flop! Re-raise the flop! You're ahead!

    Third, if you miss the flop, AK is, as a friend of mine puts it, the "nut no pair". This means you beat flush draws and straight draws, and it also means you have outs against any other pair except one formed by Ax or Kx (less likely because you have an ace and a king). It's still a great hand.

    Fourth, if the board has QJ, QT, or JT on it, AK is an extremely powerful hand, because now you have outs to the nut straight as well as TPTK with either the A or the K.

    Finally, if you have a flush draw with AK, that's also a great hand. Lots and lots of outs.

    I see lots of players give up on AK. Sure you need to if it's clear that one or more players have you crushed, but when you have AK, you have at least a 50 percent chance of beating any hand other than AA or KK (which are both unlikely). This means you win a lot of hands with it if you can stay in the hand (and your pre-flop raise will pump the pot and give you pot odds to do it).

    9. Taking draws too far in small pots. You need 4-1 to call a bet with a flush draw, and 5-1 with an OESD. You need 11-1 to call with a gutshot. If you are behind and have a pair, you need 9-1 to call. Especially in tight, nitty games, you often don't have the pot odds to see these hands to the river and sometimes you don't even have the odds to call the flop. Now, obviously, if your read tells you it could be a bluff or semi-bluff, it can be OK to call or raise your pair without correct odds. But if you are just calling to make 2 pair or trips, don't unless you are going to get paid off if you hit it.

    10. Making too many loose calls of raises and re-raises pre-flop. There are basically two types of playable pre-flop hands (with some overlap)-- hands that play well heads up and hands that play well in multi-way pots. An example of the former is AJ, and an example of the latter is 76s. If there's a raise and a re-raise from non-maniacs, your AJ is crushed. Even if you pair one of your cards, you are going to be beat and spew chips a fair amount of the time.

    As for the 76s, if a tight player raises under the gun and it folds around to you on the button with that, you need to fold it. Yeah I know, suited connectors are the bomb. But in all likelihood, you are going to end up heads up. And your hand doesn't play well heads up against a range that has you crushed.

    Now, in some games, you can "invite" other players in by calling raised pots with your suited connectors. If that's your read and it works, fine. But if you find yourself heads up against pre-flop raisers on a frequent basis with a speculative hand, you aren't respecting raises enough.

    11. Failing to keep their stack deep and rebuy as necessary. The table stakes rule almost never works to the advantage of short stacks in limit. The reason is that unlike no limit, where often you get your chips in all at once with a strong hand, in limit, you are given the chance to slowly get your chips in while seeing what happens on each street. Thus, the limit player who is ahead on the flop but gets sucked out on the turn or the river can often read that and slow down or even fold if necessary. The limit player who gets all-in never gets the chance to process that information.

    I am not really a fan of the short stack strategy in no limit either. But at least in no limit, the short stack protects the player from taking a big loss from having a monster, second best hand or a suckout. In limit, the betting structure gives you a lot of that protection already by allowing you to stop bleeding chips. Thus, you are left only with the disadvantages of short stacks and not the advantages.

    Not only do players buy in too light, but they don't rebuy when they should. If you buy in for 25 BB and your stack dwindles to 5 BB (which, by the way, can happen in limit even if you are playing decent poker, because of the variance), you need to replenish it. Countless times I have seen the scenario where the player bleeds chips due to card death, doesn't rebuy, and then finally hits his nut flush when he's got only 4BB in his stack. Don't let that happen to you. If you really can't afford the rebuy, it's time to stop and to move down in stakes.

    As I said, these are the big mistakes that I witness day in and day out in live play. I am sure there are others that folks can contribute here as well.
  2. #2

    Default Re: top 11 mistakes of live limit players

    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    6. Having too wide a range for defending blinds in tight games. This costs players a lot of money and they aren't even aware of it. There's a type of player who is, for whatever reason, truly offended that anyone would ever take any of THEIR money with a trash hand and position. So they are resolved to never let it happen. They call, or even 3-bet, with lousy hands, because dad-gummit, they are never going to let you steal their blinds.

    Your blind-defense range should be a couple of shades narrower than the likely stealing range of the guy attempting the blind steal. Why? Because you are out of position. Blind defense isn't an excuse to play trash cards out of position. Because they are still trash cards out of position.

    Some players try to seize the initiative by 3-betting, but that just costs you more chips. In addition, even if you have the initiative, the other guy still has position, which means he gets the last word. You can spew a lot of chips 3-betting the blind steal and then betting all 3 streets, only to get raised on the river when the emperor had no clothes.

    It's OK. Let them steal your blinds every now and then. It's part of the game. When you have a hand that's ahead of their blind-stealing range, THEN defend. And if you hit the flop, devise a plan to extract the maximum of chips from the blind stealer. But don't defend just because you think it's crappy that some guy is raising you with K7o. That's part of the game.
    tsk tsk! no non non...

    you do not need to be ahead of their range to defend your BB.

    Since you are getting 3.5-1 on your call (effective 4.5 counting the c-bet, but lets keep it simple...):

    In a vacuum. Without counting position you should break even/make profits by playing any hand that has >30% equitiy against their range. That is almost ATC against a steal raise from anyone that is not crazy-tight.

    But... before you say it... I know, we are not in a vacuum, we are oop, which implies some reversed implied odds, etc...

    make that 40-45% equity (adjust for villain's level of play) and you have a nice overlay to counter being oop, reversed implied odds, etc... Stove for some examples and you will be surprised

    On a range quite tighter than what stox recommends { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }

    Text results appended to pokerstove.txt

    2,698,591,104 games 3.198 secs 843,837,118 games/sec

    Board:
    Dead:

    equity win tie pots won pots tied
    Hand 0: 60.095% 59.21% 00.88% 1597968984 23739480.00 { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }
    Hand 1: 39.905% 39.03% 00.88% 1053143160 23739480.00 { Q6s }


    8,013,582,720 games 7.540 secs 1,062,809,379 games/sec

    Board:
    Dead:

    equity win tie pots won pots tied
    Hand 0: 59.970% 58.75% 01.22% 4708240752 97483302.00 { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }
    Hand 1: 40.030% 38.81% 01.22% 3110375364 97483302.00 { K7o }

    Text results appended to pokerstove.txt

    2,719,138,752 games 3.045 secs 892,984,811 games/sec

    Board:
    Dead:

    equity win tie pots won pots tied
    Hand 0: 59.151% 58.12% 01.03% 1580494784 27907424.00 { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }
    Hand 1: 40.849% 39.82% 01.03% 1082829120 27907424.00 { K2s }

    Now, wether to 3bet or call, that is a different issue, that requires balance and reads. In general, you do need to be ahead or 50-50 to 3bet, but...
    If villain is tight post, and respects 3bets... 3bet more liberally
    Against SD-bound villains, call more...
    Against very aggro players, call with some 3betting hands with SD value...
    Against passive villains 3bet a few more hands with SD value...

    and a long etc...


    Let's hear it...
    "could I take out every woman and child in a border town?"
    For the right to be governed, waste them without mercy.
    When you've decided. Meet me at the airport.
  3. #3

    Default Re: top 11 mistakes of live limit players

    Quote Originally Posted by asdpikas
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    6. Having too wide a range for defending blinds in tight games. This costs players a lot of money and they aren't even aware of it. There's a type of player who is, for whatever reason, truly offended that anyone would ever take any of THEIR money with a trash hand and position. So they are resolved to never let it happen. They call, or even 3-bet, with lousy hands, because dad-gummit, they are never going to let you steal their blinds.

    Your blind-defense range should be a couple of shades narrower than the likely stealing range of the guy attempting the blind steal. Why? Because you are out of position. Blind defense isn't an excuse to play trash cards out of position. Because they are still trash cards out of position.

    Some players try to seize the initiative by 3-betting, but that just costs you more chips. In addition, even if you have the initiative, the other guy still has position, which means he gets the last word. You can spew a lot of chips 3-betting the blind steal and then betting all 3 streets, only to get raised on the river when the emperor had no clothes.

    It's OK. Let them steal your blinds every now and then. It's part of the game. When you have a hand that's ahead of their blind-stealing range, THEN defend. And if you hit the flop, devise a plan to extract the maximum of chips from the blind stealer. But don't defend just because you think it's crappy that some guy is raising you with K7o. That's part of the game.
    tsk tsk! no non non...

    you do not need to be ahead of their range to defend your BB.

    Since you are getting 3.5-1 on your call (effective 4.5 counting the c-bet, but lets keep it simple...):

    In a vacuum. Without counting position you should break even/make profits by playing any hand that has >30% equitiy against their range. That is almost ATC against a steal raise from anyone that is not crazy-tight.

    But... before you say it... I know, we are not in a vacuum, we are oop, which implies some reversed implied odds, etc...

    make that 40-45% equity (adjust for villain's level of play) and you have a nice overlay to counter being oop, reversed implied odds, etc... Stove for some examples and you will be surprised

    On a range quite tighter than what stox recommends { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }

    Text results appended to pokerstove.txt

    2,698,591,104 games 3.198 secs 843,837,118 games/sec

    Board:
    Dead:

    equity win tie pots won pots tied
    Hand 0: 60.095% 59.21% 00.88% 1597968984 23739480.00 { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }
    Hand 1: 39.905% 39.03% 00.88% 1053143160 23739480.00 { Q6s }


    8,013,582,720 games 7.540 secs 1,062,809,379 games/sec

    Board:
    Dead:

    equity win tie pots won pots tied
    Hand 0: 59.970% 58.75% 01.22% 4708240752 97483302.00 { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }
    Hand 1: 40.030% 38.81% 01.22% 3110375364 97483302.00 { K7o }

    Text results appended to pokerstove.txt

    2,719,138,752 games 3.045 secs 892,984,811 games/sec

    Board:
    Dead:

    equity win tie pots won pots tied
    Hand 0: 59.151% 58.12% 01.03% 1580494784 27907424.00 { 22+, A2s+, K7s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, A5o+, K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o }
    Hand 1: 40.849% 39.82% 01.03% 1082829120 27907424.00 { K2s }

    Now, wether to 3bet or call, that is a different issue, that requires balance and reads. In general, you do need to be ahead or 50-50 to 3bet, but...
    If villain is tight post, and respects 3bets... 3bet more liberally
    Against SD-bound villains, call more...
    Against very aggro players, call with some 3betting hands with SD value...
    Against passive villains 3bet a few more hands with SD value...

    and a long etc...


    Let's hear it...
    The reason I disagree with this is because you need to be committed, out of position, to showing down your hand to get a good chunk of the equity. In other words, unless you are willing to show down your hand unimproved (in which case you are not getting 3.5 to 1), you have to hit something on the flop and have that something beat whatever the villain has.

    This is a common problem with stoving things in limit. Stove tells you, essentially, what your EV is against villain's range if one of you is going to shove and the other is going to call the shove. That makes it a tremendous tool in NL. It's a useful tool in limit too, but blind battles are about action and reaction-- what will he do if I just call him? How many bets will I have to put in? What will he do if I re-raise and continue?

    Keeping your range slightly tighter than the villain's solves this problem, because you will balance being out of position with the fact that you will be ahead. And in return, you will give up some blinds in situations where you were often going to be behind and out of position anyway. And those blinds you give up are 1bb or 1sb, versus any hand that you lose in a blind battle at showdown costing you a lot more than that.
  4. #4
    Lawdude, I agree with you about poker stoving ranges in LHE. It's a problem I've encountered many times and I don't know if there's an easy way to remedy it.

    But you can still profitably defend a range that's quite a lot wider than the opponent's PFR/steal % due to the pot odds you are getting. You might want to save the 3bets for when you have ahead of his opening range, but you can certainly call looser than the bottom of their range.
    Some days it feels like I've been standing forever, waiting for the bank teller to return so I can cash in all these Sklansky Bucks.
  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by KoRnholio
    Lawdude, I agree with you about poker stoving ranges in LHE. It's a problem I've encountered many times and I don't know if there's an easy way to remedy it.

    But you can still profitably defend a range that's quite a lot wider than the opponent's PFR/steal % due to the pot odds you are getting. You might want to save the 3bets for when you have ahead of his opening range, but you can certainly call looser than the bottom of their range.
    The problem with the pot odds is pot odds for what? 2-pair, trips, flush, straight, boat, quads? Sure.

    But lots of times, you will flop a pair and have the second best hand, which you will then need to call down or play aggressively because you are heads up against a blind-stealer who may have squadoosh (with apologies to Norman Chad). So the question isn't one of pot odds; rather, it is, do those second best hands cost you more than you pick up in pots won when you hit a flop and the stealer misses? And that gets back to the fact that you have worse hands and you are out of position.

    When you are heads up, your actions and the villain's expected reactions are much more important than pot odds, until you can narrow the villain's range and determine what you need to draw to. Getting your chips in when you are behind and out of position heads up is thus a very dicey thing to do even with decent pot odds.

    Meanwhile, if you give up a few of those blinds and let them steal off your most marginal holdings, you aren't losing very much money. 1bb or 1sb versus 7bb to show down a losing hand. That's the killer math of blind defense.

    As I said, I suspect a lot of this is colored by the fact that poker players don't like to have their blinds stolen. It pisses them off to think that some guy with a trash hand took their money. But folding to bluffs is something that every good player has to do occasionally.
  6. #6

    Default Re: top 11 mistakes of live limit players

    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude

    The reason I disagree with this is because you need to be committed, out of position, to showing down your hand to get a good chunk of the equity. In other words, unless you are willing to show down your hand unimproved (in which case you are not getting 3.5 to 1), you have to hit something on the flop and have that something beat whatever the villain has.

    This is a common problem with stoving things in limit. Stove tells you, essentially, what your EV is against villain's range if one of you is going to shove and the other is going to call the shove. That makes it a tremendous tool in NL. It's a useful tool in limit too, but blind battles are about action and reaction-- what will he do if I just call him? How many bets will I have to put in? What will he do if I re-raise and continue?

    Keeping your range slightly tighter than the villain's solves this problem, because you will balance being out of position with the fact that you will be ahead. And in return, you will give up some blinds in situations where you were often going to be behind and out of position anyway. And those blinds you give up are 1bb or 1sb, versus any hand that you lose in a blind battle at showdown costing you a lot more than that.
    But this is exactly why i advocate 40-45% equity instead of the 30% you need if you only count pot odds

    If your range is tighter than his steal range, then you should mostly always 3bet.

    regarding postflop, well... reads are good, and how well you play postflop will be determinant in your overall performance
    "could I take out every woman and child in a border town?"
    For the right to be governed, waste them without mercy.
    When you've decided. Meet me at the airport.
  7. #7
    What many people fail to understand is you dont even need to show a profit in your defending hands. Losing less on average is already better than folding.
    When you fold your bb to a steal, you are losing at a rate of 50BB/100hands. That is a big loss, enormous.
    If you defend with hands that are losers for you in that situation, but lose only half as much on average, that is a HUGE difference.

    I hear you, blind defense is tough, playing oop is tough, playing aggro stealers is tough... that doesnt mean we should just "give up". Nobody shows a profit OOB over the long run, but the less you lose the better, and to lose less you clearly have to defend "more and better".

    More and better meaning most people underdefend, and dont work enough on reads/exploitive plays and oop postflop play.
    "could I take out every woman and child in a border town?"
    For the right to be governed, waste them without mercy.
    When you've decided. Meet me at the airport.
  8. #8
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    i think it's been said, but blind stealing AND defense come down to reads more than ranges. if you read well, you can defend/steal more.....because you already know what your villain is telling you post flop. you will win your fair share of battles by playing better once the cards drop.

    in smaller stakes games, and passive live games, stealing and defending should be really easy. villains either dont bother to defend/steal or they overdo it. either way your adjustments are no-brainers. in fact, in many situations, you dont need cards to beat them.

    i am a slowly evolving nit. however, even i can crush the small stakes in steal/defend situations. but doing so often requires knowing who you arent even going to mess with in the first place, too.

    another thing that wasnt mentioned was "image." i know we put to much stock in image. but, when you are constantly picking on the blinds, your big hands get paid better. that is an absolute fact! when you look "bluffy," your steals get no respect. when you steal like crazy, your defenses also get less respect, when they are aggressive. and, your call downs look horrible when the tight stealer is trying to get back at you.

    however, if you realize how much hand strength drops in HU battles, you can profitably play a much wider range of hands from both stealing and defending positions.

    again, its all about post flop play and reading of the player and his hand. if you are better than your fit-or-fold opponent, you win.
    LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.

    Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by asdpikas
    What many people fail to understand is you dont even need to show a profit in your defending hands. Losing less on average is already better than folding.
    When you fold your bb to a steal, you are losing at a rate of 50BB/100hands. That is a big loss, enormous.
    If you defend with hands that are losers for you in that situation, but lose only half as much on average, that is a HUGE difference.

    I hear you, blind defense is tough, playing oop is tough, playing aggro stealers is tough... that doesnt mean we should just "give up". Nobody shows a profit OOB over the long run, but the less you lose the better, and to lose less you clearly have to defend "more and better".

    More and better meaning most people underdefend, and dont work enough on reads/exploitive plays and oop postflop play.
    This is a false dichotomy. You should defend your blinds. And, indeed, against a player who is stealing with ATC (i.e., who simply raises any pot that folds around to him in the CO or on the button), you should be defending quite a lot. So nobody's talking about losing that 10BB/100 hands (note that is the actual loss, not 50).

    But if you defend too much, you are going to run into the math I set out-- a mistakenly undefended hand costs you 1bb (.5BB), whereas a mistakenly defended hand costs you 7bb (3.5BB). So defending too little is a far smaller leak than defending too much.
  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    So nobody's talking about losing that 10BB/100 hands (note that is the actual loss, not 50).
    how do you get that figure?

    if i fold my bb, i lose 0.5 BB

    0.5BB/hand = 50BB/100hands
    "could I take out every woman and child in a border town?"
    For the right to be governed, waste them without mercy.
    When you've decided. Meet me at the airport.
  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    But lots of times, you will flop a pair and have the best hand, which you will then need to call down or play aggressively because you are heads up against a blind-stealer who may have squadoosh
    FYP.
    Some days it feels like I've been standing forever, waiting for the bank teller to return so I can cash in all these Sklansky Bucks.
  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by asdpikas
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    So nobody's talking about losing that 10BB/100 hands (note that is the actual loss, not 50).
    how do you get that figure?

    if i fold my bb, i lose 0.5 BB

    0.5BB/hand = 50BB/100hands
    You aren't counting all the hands from other positions. In a 10-handed game, you are in the blinds twice every 10 hands.

    Actually, my calculation is off too. You lose 1 small blind (usually .25BB) and 1 big blind (usually .5BB) every 10 hands, so that's .75BB/10 hands, or 7.5BB/100.
  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by KoRnholio
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    But lots of times, you will flop a pair and have the best hand, which you will then need to call down or play aggressively because you are heads up against a blind-stealer who may have squadoosh
    FYP.
    Korn, if the farther behind their range you are playing, the more often your pair will be a second best hand. So increasing your blind-defense range will increase the proportion of hands that you show down and LOSE.
  14. #14
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    guys,

    i will never prove my point with all that fancy book learnin' stuff. but, i do read a lot.

    asd, you meant 50BB/100 times in the big blind. in a 6max game, you only lose 1.5 sb per orbit if you always fold your blind. 100/6 = 16.67 orbs per 100 hands. 16.67 X 1.5sb = 25ish sb per 100 hands = 12.5 bb's per 100 hands. in FR, its 10 orbs/100 hands or 15sb's which = 7.5bb/100 lost if you fold every time.

    LD, you will flop a pair 1/3 of the time and make a pair by the river slightly more often. so, will your opponent. any text you read tells you that, HU, any pair is worth calling down. again, you are likely best, your opponent likely missed, and you still have 5 outs to outdraw him when you flop the worst pair. heck, Ahi is worth calling down.

    if you go back and read some of Fnord's other posts, he will tell you that he doesnt fold HU pots against aggro villains....EVER. now, he doesnt say its right, but if you think about it, it isnt grossly wrong, either.

    the bottom line, to me, is that FR players (at our stakes) dont know how to properly defend their blinds. they are nut campers. so, stealing is MEGA profitable. many of them dont even steal with a much wider range. so, when they DO raise, you can put them on a pretty tight range with TP cards and good kickers. it is because of that tendency that they become incredibly exploitable to your "defense." your defense becomes offense if you think about it. you already know their range so well, you can battle it out most times with the best of it....and fold when you are crushed....earning them the minimum.

    6max players OVERdefend, imo. and, they certainly over steal. i am not as good with this tactic, but it is exploitable, too. it almost becomes a game of chicken.

    but, if you play a good deal of 6max to practice playing the overstealing and overdefending villains, you will switch back to FR and laugh your ass off at how they dont put up a fight. and, as a result, you will immediately open your range for both stealing and defending. (i know your ranges are already quite wide so this isnt an attack...just a statement) you will realize that you dont really need cards.....if you can see theirs.
    LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.

    Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    Quote Originally Posted by asdpikas
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    So nobody's talking about losing that 10BB/100 hands (note that is the actual loss, not 50).
    how do you get that figure?

    if i fold my bb, i lose 0.5 BB

    0.5BB/hand = 50BB/100hands
    You aren't counting all the hands from other positions. In a 10-handed game, you are in the blinds twice every 10 hands.

    Actually, my calculation is off too. You lose 1 small blind (usually .25BB) and 1 big blind (usually .5BB) every 10 hands, so that's .75BB/10 hands, or 7.5BB/100.
    LOL

    dude, i am talking hands in the BB, not all hands.
    And I certainly never mentioned playing FR, 6max, SH, HU....

    to analyse your winrate in one specific position, you take your hands in all other positions and discard them.

    thus, for example, if you played 2000 hands in the BB, and lost $2000, you are losing $1/hand or $100/100hands in that situation. Whether you were playing 9handed, 10handed, 6handed, 3handed.... has nothing to do with it.

    How often that situation happens has nothing to do with how you should play when it does happen.
    "could I take out every woman and child in a border town?"
    For the right to be governed, waste them without mercy.
    When you've decided. Meet me at the airport.
  16. #16

    Default so y

    so your contention is that you run a profit on all hands from the BB? that's amazing if true.

    seriously, if your standard is absolute winrate from the big blind, EVERYONE is losing huge numbers of BB's per 100 hands. but if we are talking about what not dsefending wide enough costs you in terms of your winrate, you have to count all the hands played in all positions. and counting all that, we are talking about 5BB per 100 from the BB and another 2.5 or so from the SB.

    and, of course, even if you defend optimally, you will still lose some amount on those hands. but if you defend too wide, it'as gonna cost a lot because each hand you show down and lose is another 7BB's or so.

    Quote Originally Posted by asdpikas
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    Quote Originally Posted by asdpikas
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    So nobody's talking about losing that 10BB/100 hands (note that is the actual loss, not 50).
    how do you get that figure?

    if i fold my bb, i lose 0.5 BB

    0.5BB/hand = 50BB/100hands
    You aren't counting all the hands from other positions. In a 10-handed game, you are in the blinds twice every 10 hands.

    Actually, my calculation is off too. You lose 1 small blind (usually .25BB) and 1 big blind (usually .5BB) every 10 hands, so that's .75BB/10 hands, or 7.5BB/100.
    LOL

    dude, i am talking hands in the BB, not all hands.
    And I certainly never mentioned playing FR, 6max, SH, HU....

    to analyse your winrate in one specific position, you take your hands in all other positions and discard them.

    thus, for example, if you played 2000 hands in the BB, and lost $2000, you are losing $1/hand or $100/100hands in that situation. Whether you were playing 9handed, 10handed, 6handed, 3handed.... has nothing to do with it.

    How often that situation happens has nothing to do with how you should play when it does happen.
  17. #17
    Muzzard's Avatar
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  18. #18

    Default Re: so y

    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    so your contention is that you run a profit on all hands from the BB? that's amazing if true.
    I never said that, actually, please scroll up and see that i said quite the opposite, I dont wanna keep quoting myself.

    Why fall into such low tactics as to want to disqualify my opinion by twisting my words and implying i said such things?

    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    seriously, if your standard is absolute winrate from the big blind, EVERYONE is losing huge numbers of BB's per 100 hands.
    Wow, where did i hear this before? Ok, ok, I'll quote myself

    Quote Originally Posted by asdpikas
    Nobody shows a profit OOB over the long run, but the less you lose the better, and to lose less you clearly have to defend "more and better".
    I guess you are trying to spin it, and appropiate yourself of what I said, and make it look like I said the opposite.... LOL try again.


    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    but if we are talking about what not dsefending wide enough costs you in terms of your winrate, you have to count all the hands played in all positions. and counting all that, we are talking about 5BB per 100 from the BB and another 2.5 or so from the SB.
    I wont even bother with this one, you clearly have never tried to analyse a large sample size by seat/hand/situation, so you dont even get what I mean. Please look at the first 50 pages of stox book to see how its done.

    And yes, I do have more than 500k hands in my db, and I have analysed deeper than "overall winrate"



    Quote Originally Posted by LawDude
    and, of course, even if you defend optimally, you will still lose some amount on those hands. but if you defend too wide, it'as gonna cost a lot because each hand you show down and lose is another 7BB's or so.
    ahhh.... why do you play anything but AA?

    "it'as gonna cost a lot because each hand you show down and lose is another 7BB's or so" (sic)

    answer: because it makes you profit in the long run?

    man, that is a myopic look at poker, that is. Wait! if you defend u may lose 7BBs if you lose the pot! Hey, how bout the times u win 7BBs? dont count those? LOL
    "could I take out every woman and child in a border town?"
    For the right to be governed, waste them without mercy.
    When you've decided. Meet me at the airport.
  19. #19
    Look, asp, I'm sorry if I was a bit flip, but the point is that you can't just say "look at that leak, it's costing you 50BB per 100 hands!" like it's some sort of horrible thing. EVERYTHING you do from the BB is costing you lots of BB's per 100 hands.

    The question is are you containing your BB losses better by (1) defending from a wider range than the player who is stealing and thereby paying people off more often at showdown, or (2) defending from a somewhat narrower range than the player who is stealing and thereby paying off less often at showdown but more often in the form of folded blinds.

    THAT'S the issue, and it's a lot more complex than "you're losing 50BB/100 hands!".
  20. #20
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    now that we may be back on point a bit...

    if an 80/60 steals my blind, is it better for me to fold outright, or play back at him?

    conversely, if a 10/4 steals my blind, is it better to fold or play back?

    i contend these are BOTH profitable situations, and it doesnt require a lot of deep thought or math.

    now, if a 23/18 stole my blind, which is better folding or playing back? that is an entirely different question.
    LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.

    Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Chopper
    now that we may be back on point a bit...

    if an 80/60 steals my blind, is it better for me to fold outright, or play back at him?

    conversely, if a 10/4 steals my blind, is it better to fold or play back?

    i contend these are BOTH profitable situations, and it doesnt require a lot of deep thought or math.

    now, if a 23/18 stole my blind, which is better folding or playing back? that is an entirely different question.
    What I really want to know is what's their blind-stealing range, which could be different from their general stats. My original point in all this is that I see players defending without regard to a player's blind-stealing range. For instance, a few nights ago, I saw a nitty old lady raise pre-flop for the first time in 3 hours. It happened in a very tight game where she had many previous opportunities to steal. Someone called her from the SB with T7o, flop was A73, and called her bets to the river to get crushed by her set of aces.

    Another example happened to me in the 15-30 game at Hollywood Park last Friday. I have a pretty standard blind-stealing range that I adjust based on who is in the blinds, but I will fold plenty of times when my hand's not good enough to steal. In any event, I had shown down hands in blind steal situations on a couple of orbits from the button with Q9s and K4o, where I had hit the flop and held on to win. Next time around, I was in the CO with A9s. Folds to me, I raise. BB, who had not been a victim of my previous blind-steals but who had observed them, 3-bet me. Flop was AA4. BB bets, I call. Turn was a 2. BB bets, I raise, he 3-bets, I call. River was a blank. BB bets, I call.

    As it turned out, I lost out on bets because I didn't know what he was doing. He had J4o!

    This is why I say it is something of an ego thing. There wasn't really any evidence that my blind-stealing range was broad enough to justify a call or 3-bet with J4o. But some players HATE the idea that you might be stealing their precious blinds. J4o was probably 25-30 percent equity against my range, and much of the time he was going to have to pay a lot more bets than his 3-bet pre-flop to win the pot. Let it go, so you don't get in situations where you have to chase lots of good money after bad in an attempt to buy a pot.

    If I thought that what was really happening is that players are making decent plays with respect to blind defense and we just had a difference of opinion about how broad to go, I wouldn't have placed this in my list. But I suspect that for a lot of limit players, the major leak is that they have no idea what the blind-stealing range is of the players who are raising them and no plan other than pure aggression as to what to do with their hand.
  22. #22
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    i agree with what you are saying about defending for the sole reason of defending. but, that isnt your problem....which isnt the idea of the post. you are stating what you see too many people do that costs them bets. but, you SHOULD be happy when you see it because you can steal and know your strength requirements can drop a tick from a vb standpoint, but you need to respect their raises a little more, too, because they could have some pretty random stuff.

    calling that lady is really bad. well, paying her off all the way is really, really bad.

    in your hand, though, i would start to expect someone to play back at me since your recent image is one of stealing with non premium cards. when you flop trips with a 9 kicker, i think you can cap that turn and b/c the river. you cant suspect another A just because you were 3bet. this guy has seen you showdown hands that he probably wouldnt play so aggressively himself and now thinks of you as a maniac and decided to overplay the hell out of his bottom pair on a paired flop. again....horrid on villain's part.

    and, yes, it's likely an ego thing. but, again, that is NOT your problem. you should just take a note and move on with your aggression....

    and so should everyone else reading this thread when the same thing happens to them.
    LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.

    Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!

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