Range of steal and cbet

[wegispoker]

Hey guys, my name is Wegis Silveira, I just signed up flopturnriver.

I need a help to adjust my range of steal in cash.

Analyzing my stats I realized that despite my percentage of steals not be as high, at times I try to steal with very weak hands. For example, in one hand I tried a steal of BTN with 62o and got BB's call; on board (QAQ) I made the cbet of a half pot and received call. dropped on the turn, of course.

I know the cbet was horrible, but which range steal you advise me? and what better way to make a continuation bet or not?

[MadMojoMonkey]

Every situation in poker is guided by ranges and equities. There is no hand that you should always ATS with against all player types that may sit in the blinds.

In general, you want to ATS with a range of strong drawing hands like S1G's and S2G's, with weak AXo, and with weak KXs hands.
These hands all have the chance to flop a piece of the board, or a strong draw. None of the pairs you make with these hands are going to play for big pots.
All your strong aces, you are betting for value, and not ATS. The weak aces that you bet to ATS will get called by stronger AX often enough to make these hands poorly suited to play a big pot post-flop.

Fundamentally, if you raised to steal the blinds and it didn't work AND you whiffed the flop, then check/fold OTF. If your opponent is exploiting this, then you are probably ATS too often.

Just because you wanted to steal the blinds, doesn't mean that you can play bad poker post-flop.

[micro4life]

having a default stealing range is great idea if you are fairly new to the game...
in your example 62o is too wide... you should keep your stealing range and most of your suited hands and decent offsuited stuff like idk A2o+ , K6o+ , Q7o+ , J8o+ , offsuit connectors , offsuit gappers and stuff like that... you can also adjust and open even wider if you feel comfortable

also stealing generally depends on who are players in the blinds... weaker they are more you can steal, less they defend more you can steal etc..

also you should try to figure out math and come up with numbers (depending on your steal size) when you can exploit players who are not defending enough by opening any 2 cards

I could write you an answer but it's prob a good idea for you to at least try to figure out on your own or do some research on this subject

[MadMojoMonkey]

I certainly don't recommend an opening range on the BTN that is wider than 50%. Personally, I think 40% is much better.
Remember tight is right PRE. (I play FR, so some 6-max players may be a bit wider than me. This is appropriate.)

When you look at the 40% of hands you would play from the BTN, you want to pick all the hands that can flop some decent piece once in a while. This is why S1G's and S2G's are playable. Normally, 75s is far too weak to play from any position. However, the fact that you only have to get 2 Villains to fold means that it has a bit more equity.

I do not recommend playing K6o. That's going to get out-kicked a ton of the time. K6s is another story; it can make the nut flush on A-high boards sometimes.

You need to remember that MOST of the value in the hands you would open from the BTN and not the CO are literally the weakest "playable" hands. You should not be calling a raise pre-flop with those hands and you should play sensibly post-flop.

As a general rule of thumb, your BTN range is ~twice as wide as your CO range. So a BTN range of 40% would have a CO range of ~20%. This is assuming that you are folded/limped to. Calling/3-betting an open is a different story.

Losing 2 - 4 BB on a pre-flop bet is A-OK, lickity-split, nothing-to-worry-about.
Losing 10+ BB when you had every reason to believe you were way behind your villain's range is something you should really take to heart, though.

[The Bean Counter]

I think 35%-40% button opening is fine for starting out. Just because you can mathematicaly profit in a vacuum from stealing with ATC, it doesn't mean you should. Also, if your steal doesn't work, it doesn't mean you then need to commit any more to the pot if you whiff and when the flop hits a typical blind callers range. You'll still be making profit overall from the times you get both blinds to fold and receiving payoff the times you do have something.

[matiusaa]

It actually depends a lot in the players that are sitting on the blinds, and you image on the table. which limits do you play in?

[Weissr]

Every situation in poker is guided by ranges and equities. There is no hand that you should always ATS with against all player types that may sit in the blinds.

In general, you want to ATS with a range of strong drawing hands like S1G's and S2G's, with weak AXo, and with weak KXs hands.
These hands all have the chance to flop a piece of the board, or a strong draw. None of the pairs you make with these hands are going to play for big pots.
All your strong aces, you are betting for value, and not ATS. The weak aces that you bet to ATS will get called by stronger AX often enough to make these hands poorly suited to play a big pot post-flop.

Fundamentally, if you raised to steal the blinds and it didn't work AND you whiffed the flop, then check/fold OTF. If your opponent is exploiting this, then you are probably ATS too often.

Just because you wanted to steal the blinds, doesn't mean that you can play bad poker post-flop.

If opponent is playing Loose-Passive with a high Fold to Flop CBet, then you should be able to Cbet almost every flop profitably (missed or not) and give up your air when villain continues with the hand, no?