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For understanding hand ranges, keep in mind that it's something you'll never be perfect at. It takes years of study to get confident in the subtleties. Just keep pecking away at it. A lot clicks into place in random "aha" moments while you're studying ranges. It's daunting, but definitely worth it.
For starters, use a poker calculator when you study. They're invaluable at doing all the math in the background for you. Most of them have sliders for you to set a range of hands. Those sliders often are %-age based, and that's the tool you'll be using first. If someone is playing 30% of hands (from a specific position), then you put them on the 30% range your calculator suggests. It wont be perfect, but it'll be pretty close most of the time.
Next, pay attention to whether each villain is playing tighter in early positions than later positions. You definitely should be. Most of them wont be. Quickly spotting which players have a sense of positional awareness when it comes to pre-flop opening ranges is a good tell that they're at least trying to study the game and not a purely recreational fish. Adjust your play against them accordingly.
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First, the bet to pot ratio is the amount of the bet divided by the amount in the pot. Sometimes abbreviated as {fraction} PSB (Pot-Sized Bet)
The turn bet is 6 into 81. That's close enough to 1/14. Freaking great odds if you're on a draw, but YOU aren't on a draw.
Note: you only need to be good 1 in 16 times to make a profitable call against that bet. BET/(BET+POT) is the % of times you need to win the bet to make a break-even call. Any more than that is printing money.
Do you want Villain to be drawing on his hand with those odds? NO
You want to force him to decide to make a bad call or fold his draw. He relies on you paying off his bad call to make any money... so be wary of paying off when draws come through.
Finally... I kinda mis-spoke. Villain has placed a blocker bet. His bet is too small to be meaningful, and its intent is to get ahead of any larger bets that may be made by anyone else on this street (or so it seems), and it worked. You probably would have bet more than $0.06 if he checked to you, eh? Hopefully something closer to $0.60 (~2/3 PSB).
What I wouldn't mind from you on the turn would better be described as a protection bet. You think you have the best hand and Villain is on a draw, so you don't want him to get a free card, and you don't want him to be priced in for the card, either. (see above).
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Fun fact: when you start thinking of bet-sizes in terms of PSB, you can easily simplify one of the most important equations (one you should be calculating in your head every single time a bet is made).
BET/(BET+POT)
That's easily understood as your current risk / your potential reward. In that form, I'm counting the Villain's bet as already part of the pot. If you call, you'll be adding another bet to the pot, so that is part of the total reward.
I.e. after you call, you will have paid X and now the pot contains Y. You need to win that bet X/Y times to break even. More than that often is winning.
When thinking in terms of {fraction} PSB, it is super easy.
1/2 PSB -> 1/(1+1+2) = 1/4 = 25%
To make a profitable call against a 2/3 PSB, you need to win at least 28.6% of the time.
2/3 PSB -> 2/(2+2+3) = 2/7 ~= 28.6%
To make a profitable call against a 2/3 PSB, you need to win at least 28.6% of the time.
3/4 PSB -> 3/(3+3+4) = 3/10 = 30%
To make a profitable call against a 3/4 PSB, you need to win at least 30% of the time.
In this hand, OTT, the best was close to 1/14 PSB
Villain only needs it to be profitable 1/(1+1+14) = 1/16 ~= 6.3%
Villain only needs to win that bet 6.3% of the time for it to be a good bet, and that's assuming no one ever folds to it, which they will, so his equity is even better.
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