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Keep in mind that these two stats are only pieces of the puzzle. They're not going to point you in the right direction by themselves, but can be used in context with everything else to sometimes give you a better idea of how your opponent plays. I recommend using those two stats since the pieces of the puzzle they provide can help our EV in some of the toughest spots on later streets: when villain's raise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkfan79
If he had a higher PFR, then I would discount AK and still would discount KK.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
equity win tie pots won pots tied
Hand 0: 34.848% 34.85% 00.00% 276 0.00 { AcAh }
Hand 1: 65.152% 65.15% 00.00% 516 0.00 { KK, JJ, 99, 44, AKs, AKo }
have you ever been ahead on every one of your 18 tables at once?
I only win about 52% of sessions on each individual table. That means on average out of 18 tables I would only win on 9.Quote:
Originally Posted by martindcx1e
As for your question, I'm not sure to be honest.
Assuming a coin flip for ahead/behind, the odds would be 2^18 to 1 against. Using 52% as an estimate (which is flawed, but our only option), odds are 7.7x10^-6 to 1 against.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
To put that in perspective, the odds of the board in HE making a royal flush are 1.6x10^-6 to 1 against. So spoon is likely to be ahead on 18 tables at once about every four times he sees a royal flush on the board.
Just having fun. Sorry about the math geek reply.
If you don't like the math, here's the short answer: probably not.
As you probably have a decent sample size and are pretty much killing the games...
1. How good have you run at best eg 25bbs/100 over 8k sample etc etc
2. And obviously, how bad have you run at your worst.
Answers will be interesting to compare to those who still have relatively small samples
what PT stats do you put on the table? :cool: any PAHUD layout shared with us? i always have trouble reading some stats easily when multitabling heavily on stars.
ok how about just over 100bb's on every table at once?Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb
if you keep your stack full, then it's inevitable eventuallyQuote:
Originally Posted by martindcx1e
ya i guess so. i have no clue about that many tables lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by daven
I've won a little over 10 buy-ins at 100nl in under 1500 hands before, so whatever the win-rate is there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Miffed22001
I broke even at 100nl over around 80k hands after beating my first 80k for about 2.5 ptbb/100.
In January at 200nl I went 1 ptbb/100 over my first 40k hands -- my adjusted equity showed that I should have been closer to 4 ptbb/100.
http://www.ssgrinder.com/spoon.pah is my current 9-max PAHUD layout.Quote:
Originally Posted by pokerfan
On the table I show VP$IP, PFR, Total Aggression Postflop, and Attempted to Steal. I use a sort of dark purple because it blends goes fairly well with the Hyper Simple background.
My pop-up stats are as follows:
Name
Total Hands
------------------------------
VP$IP
PFR
Attempted to Steal
Folded SB to Steal
Folded BB to Steal
------------------------------
Flop Aggression
Turn Aggression
River Aggression
------------------------------
Continuation Bet
Folds Continuation Bet
Calls Continuation Bet
Raises Continuation Bet
------------------------------
Won SD When Raise Turn
Won SD When Raise River
If you're having trouble reading the stats, remember that you can change the fold size in the layout manager.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daven
I DONT WANT TO POST HERE SPOON. DUCY?
No sorry, I don't.Quote:
Originally Posted by fat-b
are you break-even or ahead AA>KK vs KK<AA?
actually, that's hard to know i guess - cos to be ahead you have to be folding KK without knowing if it's a set or AA that has you on the flop. Ever fold KK pre? thoughts on this?
Over an extremely long-term sample I would suspect that I would run ahead. The reasons for this is that my opponents overplay KK on an Axx flop more than I do and I think I can sniff out a set with AA on Kxx better than they can.Quote:
Originally Posted by daven
Occasionally I'll fold KK preflop, even just 100bb deep. People do this way too much in general, but sometimes it's correct.
Here's a simple rule of thumb to keep in mind that I'm pulling out of my ass: if you add a player's VP$IP to their PFR, and that number is greater than 10, then you probably shouldn't fold KK preflop at just 100bb deep unless you have some read about how they play AA.
I have folded KK three times ish in my life spoon ! 2 of them was correct. Does this make me a good pokerplayer ?
It depends on your sample.Quote:
Originally Posted by fat-b
spoon,i just lost my KK to a donk's AA with 200BB this weekend but your magic number is huge in my case, ouch. :lol: In that situation, the donk minraised 4 limpers in SB, i 3 bet big from big blind and then he min 4 bet :cool: vip$ip:73.33% and PFR : 13.33% let me NEVER fold my kk whatsoever.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
I was asked the following in IRC, and I thought to share it here since he's currently playing:
Your hands do hold up. They hold up exactly the amount of time they are supposed to -- no more, no less.Quote:
Originally Posted by wesrman
The fact that you asked this question shows that you, like many players, are not focused on parts of poker that they should be. Moreover, by giving attention to things like how you seem to be "running", you cause psychological ripples that easily turn into waves that can ruin your performance and can run your quality of life into the ground.
The core of all of this is results-oriented thinking, but often it's hard to see exactly why thinking about results is such a bad thing, so I'll elaborate a bit on a few ideas that you can think about on your own. While we're obviously concerned with poker, these ideas have to do with performance in all things. When you really apply these ideas, your whole life will benefit, not just poker.
Presence in the moment is easily the most important idea you could ever take from anything I ever talk about. The idea of presence is that you are "there" mentally in the moment in which things are happening. It's the present that largely matters, not the past and not the future. While often we can learn from the past or plan for the future, the factors that are affecting your decision NOW are what are important.
What takes us away from having presence are numerous distractions and bad mental habits, most of which are self-imposed. If you get sucked out on, and you take the time to put the hand into a converter and post it into IRC or on the boards or where ever, you've already lost presence because you're taking attention away from the immediate and into something that isn't important. If you want to ask about a hand, that's obviously fine, but in the middle of a session isn't the best time for it. Have a Notepad window open and either quickly copy the HH to it or jot down the hand number so that during your time allotted to study poker you can come back to it.
The biggest thing in poker that prevents us from having presence other than our distractions outside of the game is our emotional attachment to what was and our inability to realize what is. When we have QQ preflop and have a chance to 3-bet a loose player, emotionally we feel good because we have a good hand and we expect to win. Then when the flop comes AJ4 all spades, and we don't have a spade, this is a dangerous moment. Our emotional attachment to how we felt about our hand preflop has caused us to feel bad about the flop, and feeling bad about the flop will cause us to have a small period of time where we are much more likely to play incorrectly. If instead, when each decision presents itself we remain free from emotional involvement, we will never have periods of time where we are more likely to make -EV decisions, and so it can only be a +EV proposition.
This is only scratching the surface, but I realize that this post is getting quite long.
The bold part is important, obviously.Quote:
Originally Posted by pokerfan
But yeah I probably stack off there too.
Hi spoon. Why do people fold soo often to 3bets , when they open for 4xBB then i 3bets and they fold. Please respond.
The 3-betting game in full ring has not made it to as high of a level as 6-max in general. That's one of the things that makes full ring easier, but has a down side of not preparing people who exclusively play full ring for that type of play.Quote:
Originally Posted by fat-b
Played a hand yesterday. I have 44 i CO? UTG opens for 4xbb, utg+1 calls i join to. Flop comes K94, 2diamonds. They both check to me , and i bet 20 into a 28 pot or something. UTG folds , but UTG+1 makes a raise to 58 i think it was. Now .. In 6max this is a turboshove , but is it really +ev in FR games? Villain was standard 12 10 ish player i thinks.
It was a joke.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
Because i ran bad in 4 AIs in a row, and you told me to ask you a question.
obv move up where they respect your raises. or flip for rolls.
Yes, shove.Quote:
Originally Posted by fat-b
My response wasn't a joke. Read it. Learn. Improve. Gogogogo.Quote:
Originally Posted by wesrman
shortstackers at microlimits:
plain old idiots?
or
do any of them know what they're doing?
everything i've seen says shortstacking at 50nl and below (or maybe 25, i dont remember precisely) is very -EV
If someone is short-stacking micros then it's likely they're not very good at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by zxqv8
Short-stacking at micros can be very very +EV because those players play bad obviously.
How do you measure your adjusted equity? And when you are analyzing your game, do you have any tips/tricks for finding leaks?Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
I dont know if this has been covered here yet, sorry if u have to quote one your answers.
To what extend do we need to consider our opponents level of thinking when we balance our ranges?
Get PokerEV (a free program) at www.pokerevsoftware.com, and run it. This will tell you a number of things that relate your Sklansky bucks to showdown winnings to actual winnings, and it will also tell you how good/bad you run on all-ins. When you compensate for how good/bad you run on all-ins, that's what's referred to as your adjusted equity.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pasta
Of course, PokerEV can do a LOT more than that. Check this other post I made to see how to use the advanced filtering system:
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/...ev-t67793.html
As far as finding leaks, every 50k hands or so I'll search for a number of things using PokerEV. I'll look at how I do in small, medium and large pots, and look at different hands specifically (how I'm playing flush draws, etc.). If you just poke around with it a bit you'll discover some neat stuff. Also, there is a post on 2+2 somewhere that outlines some things to look for in Poker Tracker, although I'm not sure of the url or who wrote it.
I think it's very important, and is one of the main things we should consider when balancing our ranges.Quote:
Originally Posted by XTR1000
I'm having a hard time putting this into words, but I think it comes down to knowing how our opponents play so we can exploit them. If they're not playing in a way that makes it necessary to really mix up our ranges, then it often becomes -EV to do so.
Now obviously we're going to want to mix things up a bit, but like I said, I definitely think that there is a point that it becomes overkill, especially at 100nl and 200nl.
I hope this makes sense. If not, feel free to ask some more specific questions and I'll see what I can do.
Edit: I don't particularly like how I answered this, but I'm having a tough time bridging my feelings about this into words, so I'll try to give an example or two of what I mean.
We know at 100nl and 200nl people often open limp/fold way too much. Well to exploit this, we're going to be raising over them with a lot of holdings. Soon enough, you'll start to notice the players who mix in some limp/raises and you'll notice who limp/folds a whole lot. Then, against each of these sub-types, you'll made a little tweak to how you play in addition to just raising over them a lot. Maybe against the guy who limp/3bets some you'll just limp behind more often with certain hands that play well multi-way (Axs, suited connectors, etc.) while against the guy who limp/folds too much you'll start raising with even more hands.
I think one of the more basic post-flop ways that we mix up our play at full ring is the treatment of draws in comparison "made hands" when we're in position but we aren't the pre-flop aggressor. Suppose a 12/10 raises from UTG+1 at a full table, MP2 calls, and we call with 65s in LP. The flop comes 943 rainbow, and UTG+1 leads out, MP2 folds. Let's assume villain will usually bet the flop and turn here so that we don't have to bring floating into the discussion just yet. We have three main options here:
1. The most passive line is to just call the flop, then if we miss, just call the turn (or check behind).
2. A slightly more aggressive line is to semi-bluff raise the flop. If we get called, we'll often have an option for a free card on the turn if we miss.
3. Call the flop, but raise the turn somewhat big. This is the "obvious" line that a set takes, so it can be a good semi-bluff.
Against different types of villains different lines are going to be more +EV than others. If we compare these lines to how we would play a set, we see that against those same types of villains, it might be more +EV to play a set a different way than we would play the draw above. In this way, we're considering our opponent's thinking and tendencies before we make a decision.
Now, on the other hand, game theory tells us that ideally we should probably sometimes be taking different lines against the same opponent with both a draw and a set. Against not-so-thinking opponents, I somewhat disagree. I think that as long as everyone at the table sees you play it both ways, you can still often choose the most +EV line against a particular opponent without taking too much consideration for balance against that particular villain.
In short-handed games I think this changes since we end up in similar spots against the same villains over and over and our image or reputation or whatever you want to call it becomes a bit more detailed.
I really hope this makes sense. If not, hit me up.
I used to worry about this a lot, then I realised how much people suck at putting me on a hand when I just run a line that I think with get maximum value or even fast-play a very strong hand. Now I don't worry about it so much. There are enough variables in my decision process and so few hands hit showdown...Quote:
Originally Posted by XTR1000
If you play with people who suck at these things then that's often going to be the case. In full ring's current online state, I'm pretty sure you don't have to worry about this very much until 2/4. At 1/2 you should probably be making *some* considerations against particular opponents, but definitely not the majority. At 0.50/1 it's laughable to consider that these guys might be literate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord
I'm like you though in the sense that I feel like there are enough variables that determine what line I take in certain spots that it creates enough inherent random-ish-ness as it is.
You guys are all nits, raise small pocket pairs from all positions.
I run 17/15 as it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanglow
Ok, probably a stoopid question from a noob regarding leaving money behind on a table/allotted session times. We've been two/three-tabling for five hours at FR $10NL and we're nearing the end of our allotted session time - it's getting late etc. On one table we've slowly built our 100bb buy-in to around 165bb by playing solidly, making a good part of that against a 45/15 who hasn't been playing a great game, but has built up a stack which currently stands around 170bb. The rest of the table is playing fairly weak against this opp so we've been able to pick at his stack pretty much uncontested.
We hold AA and to our joy we end up ai pf way ahead of this opp's hand. But he gets lucky and takes our stack so that we are now down both our hard-earned 65bb and 1 buy-in.
Assuming we do not tilt, that opp stays at the table, and that we are still capable of playing well enough to take a load of that money back given another couple of hours, do we extend our session to recoup, or is this bad discipline?
On a more basic level, I saw in a previous post you set an alarm to go off when you intend to stop a session. How strictly do you stick to your allotted session periods? Are there any circumstances that will cause you to play way, way beyond your pre-determined session time, or do you consider this -EV in the long run?
That's weird. I raise pairs everywhere and run 15/11. I guess you isolate more than I do? Not sure. I think we should do a prop bet on who can make more at 1/2 FR in a month. I need some motivation.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
The only things that matter in the situation you laid out is that there is a bad player with a big stack at a table you have access to. If you can continue to play a +EV game, then it's +EV. If not, then it's not.Quote:
Originally Posted by seren
For me, I stick pretty strictly to the time frame that I set aside to play. This is more of a personality and lifestyle choice than anything. I set up a schedule for myself each day and try to stick to it the best I can.
Now if there was some huge donk that I had position on and was deep and it was getting towards the end of my allotted time to play or whatever, then unless I had something really important to do afterwards, I'd probably continue playing, at least on that one table, until the guy left.
There are a lot more 10/8 types to molest at my lowly stakes. I probably push what's +EV to play with from all positions to be honest.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanglow
In a month or two I might take you up on that. :)
This is kind of a broad question, but i feel like im leaking money by playing draws too aggro. Can you give some examples of how to play certain draws IP vs OOP, and maybe exlain a bit about fold equity.
I would really like to hear more about how you adjust your play against various opponents with draws and made hands. I usually aim for an unexploitable strategy that makes villain neutral about calling or folding given my range, expecting my opponents to over adjust one way or the other. I like the idea of adjusting this to exploit my opponents tendencies, but I am not sure what I should be looking for.
I will make a few guesses. Turn cbet is probably an important stat? If they frequently 2-barrel, then tend to raise the flop with draws and just call with sets? On the other hand, if turn cbet is low tend to float the draws and raise the sets on the flop? It seems like a few custom stats would be extremely useful here: Fold to flop cbet raise, fold to turn cbet raise, and fold to turn bet after flop cbet called? Those should be fairly simple to add in PT3.
Outside of stats, my most important read on an opponent is whether they are willing to stack off light with me. Once I show down a few draws and get them willing to stack off light, would it be more profitable to just stop playing SCs against them, or do you think you pick up enough missed flops to make them worthwhile regardless?
Also, are there some opponents that are aware enough to catch on to your adjustments? If so, how do you pinpoint them and do you revert to a balanced strategy against them?
I'll start off with a basic background on fold equity, give some principles to think about when considering playing a draw aggressively, and then give a couple of examples of when you should and when you shouldn't be aggressive with draws.Quote:
Originally Posted by wesrman
Fold equity is the equity you have from the chance that someone folds. So say in 25nl you raise to $1 preflop and get called by the big blind. The pot is then $1.10. He checks, and you bet $0.75. If he folds 40.5% of the time, then your bet breaks even just on fold equity alone. The math involved is as follows: 40.5% of the time you'll win $1.10, for an EV of $0.446, and 59.5% of the time you'll lose $0.75, for an EV of $0.446. Notice that the cards don't matter as long as he folds 40.5% of the time. Now the catch is in that 59.5% of the time he doesn't fold because we won't always lose the hand then, especially if we have a strong (8+ outs) draw.
There are two key reasons that you should ever be aggressive with a draw. The first reason is that you think you have good fold equity. The second is when you're disguising your hand (or balancing your range, however you want to think about it). Sometimes both of these reasons will come into play.
Likewise, there are two main reasons you shouldn't play a draw aggressively. First, if your opponent doesn't size his bets well, often it's more +EV to just let him give you great odds to call. Second, if there are a number of people to act behind you, being aggressive with your draw can be dangerous since if they raise over you, you might end up putting money in the pot and have to fold to their raise. Additionally, if you raise a draw with players to act behind you, they are less likely to flat call which would improve your effective pot odds.
Here are a few examples that bring some of these principles into play. Assume all hands are 25nl 8-handed with $0.10/0.25 blinds and $25 stacks, and we have a 14/12 or so tight-aggressive image.
Example 1:
We raise preflop from UTG+1 to $1 with A :d: J :d:, and only the CO (14/10/2.0) calls. The flop comes K :d: 9 :s: 3 :d: giving us the nut flush draw (along with an overcard) and the pot is $2.10. This is a good place to bet since we can figure to have good fold equity. Our opponent will probably continue with hands like AK or KQ, might call with JJ or TT, and will probably call with lesser flush draws. Obviously villain is going to continue with 99 or 33. The hands that he folds are all of the suited connectors that missed and most of the small pairs. When you consider his range, we see that we have good fold equity and we even might be able to stack some people with flush over flush.
Example 2:
A tight/somewhat nitty player (say 12/9/1.0) in MP1 raises to $1, a loose/passive (say 24/3/1.2) HJ calls, and we call on the button with 6 :h: 5 :h:. The flop comes K :s: 9 :h: 3 :h:, giving us a flush draw, and the pot is $3.35. MP1 leads out for $2.25, HJ folds, and it's $2.25 to us with a pot of $5.60. Our pot odds aren't terrible, but this is a good place to raise sometimes to disguise our hand. If we raise here sometimes, it's hard for villain to put us on a hand since we could have a set. (This has the added benefit of disguising our sets as well.) We figure to have some fold equity as well, since he could easily have been making a continuation bet with AQ or AJ. If villain calls and checks the turn, we also get the option to check behind the turn for a free look at the river.
Example 3:
A 13/9 raises UTG to $1, MP2 calls, we call with T :s: 9 :s: in the HJ, the CO and button both call, and both blinds call. The flop comes A :s: J:s: 2 :h: and the pot is $7.00. Both blinds check, UTG leads out for $4.50, and MP2 folds. This is a bad place to play the draw aggressively for a number of reasons. First, we have little to no fold equity. Second, we're getting decent odds to draw on the flop at a little over 2.5:1. Third, there are four people to act behind us, and if we raise, it's doubtful any of them will flat call. Here, a call is best. If someone raises behind you, then continue if you think you have the odds to do so.
I hope this helps.
Game theory tells us that unless our opponents are playing optimal poker, to achieve the best profits we should play a strategy that is by definition exploitable. I talked about playing draws aggressively in my post above replying to wesrman's question, but I'll continue along a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pasta
Against an opponent who double-barrels too much, a line I like to throw in is a raise on the turn (looking like a set) with my strong draws occasionally while lowering the amount of draws I raise with on the flop a bit. The reasons for this are fairly obvious, but I don't think much other major adjustments are needed if this is the only change.
If a villain will stack off light, then you should stop being nearly as aggressive with draws since they will pay you off when you hit, giving you huge implied odds. Your sets and draws will go way up in value against these players if you play them almost face up.
Until you reach 200nl+, opponents are barely aware that their brain is attached to their spinal cord. Once players start catching on to my minor adjustments, I start playing against them like they're not total retards.
1) Default play w/ JJ from blinds vs pfr 4<x<7 from MP?
2) Smart 3betting range from blinds vs decent 11/10ish shortstacks raise from LP?
3) We´re BB, folded to SB who makes it 4BB. 3bet vs call & float flop? Ranges?
4) Max BB won/hand one can expect for the blinds?
5) Why are my blinds such a spew?
6) Bigest leak aming 100NL/200NL TAGs
7) Thanks a lot for taking the time, this thread rules.
1: Against a 100bb stack, I call more the closer x is to 4, and 3-bet the close x is to 7. Against a 50bb stack, I'm much more likely to call and lead a lot of flops. That particular spot depends on some other factors, for me at least.Quote:
Originally Posted by XTR1000
2: I base this decision more off of their attempt to steal than their VP$IP/PFR. If they're 25bb or less, I just put them all-in with something like AJs+, TT+, KQs or so. If they're 25bb-50bb, then I'll 3-bet according to that stat as well.
3: What? You lost me here.
4: From what I've seen, going for -0.10 ptbb/100 is worth shooting for.
5: You probably defend too much or too little or are running bad or pick bad opponents to play against rah rah rah. Post some stats and we'll go from there because it's a tricky subject.
6: Just in general, they haven't gotten past their 25nl ubertaggnit game. I'm sort of in a hurry so I can't answer this the best that I can, but I really think their biggest leak is they don't try to improve.
7: Well it was something to do. I had no idea there would be as many people asking stuff.
Thanks Spoon, much appreciated.
<3 <3 <3 <3
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by XTR1000
This thread has been ridiculously informative for me.
Cheers spoon!
your standard opener seems to be 4x, mine is still 3x. What do you think are the advantages/disadvantages of 4 vs 3.
It basically comes down to the fact that raising to 4x has more fold equity. When playing after limpers and when opening in late position, it becomes fairly important.Quote:
Originally Posted by pgil
Dear Spoon.
Should i stop playing No limit texas holdem the cadilac of poker baby , and switch over to pot limit omahaha?
PLEASE RESPONDS
Not quite yet, but I would definitely get decent at the game.Quote:
Originally Posted by fat-b
very nice thread, thanx for your efforts:
1) very short stacks: I see these 20bb stacks. some are 4/4 others are 8/8. if you preflop raise 4xbb and one of these guys shoves. what do u need to call? I often find myself running into low PP, AK, AQ, and ofcoarse AA, KK , QQ. do you think I should ever fold AK, AQ against these types? what about smaller PP?
2) what do you do with all your poker stars points?
-beck
when you first sit down do you wait for the BB or not?
1. 99+, AQ+ is probably fine to call there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beck
2. Up until recently I've been spending them on the $1500 bonuses and the occasional book, but the concierge program is more +EV than the bonuses than I thought it was originally, so that's probably where I'll be using most of my points from now on.
Yes, always.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom
If you post in the CO then it's roughly 0EV at a 9-handed table IF nobody leaves before you get to your BB, but everyone won't stay 100% of the time so it's +EV to wait.
hi spoon,
hope this thread has not been declared to be dead....
on what kind of equipment do you multitable (monitorsize and machine)??
best rregards
hags
this thread should be stickied.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
What is your reasoning behind the donk lead here? Are you looking to control pot size mainly or polarizing villan's range?
Right now my preflop play is too passive, I run at 15/8 on average, and on the days I torture myself to raise more 15/10. I know it's not the best preflop stats, so I'm wondering, what, when, why and how should I raise PF for better results.
I have a 20" widescreen LCD monitor that isn't that great of a quality but it was on sale. My computer has Windows XP home running a 2.2GHz Dual Core Intel chip with 1 GB of RAM. Previously I had two mismatched 17" CRTs running on an old beat up Dell machine that I'd had for years. I could 24-table cash games with PT2 and PAHUD and AHK scripts running (along with other stuff occasionally like mIRC and Firefox) with no problems. You don't really need any kind of big ass monitor or super fast computer to multitable.Quote:
Originally Posted by hagscel
I don't think so, but it's nice of you to say that.Quote:
Originally Posted by daven
A little bit of both at the time. I don't like to check there since a c/c gives Villain a free card so to speak to hit an over, and a c/r bloats the pot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Primus Sucks
In general, you probably call too much preflop and raise too little. I went digging through my My Documents folder to find something I wrote for a new guy a while back about what to open raise from where:Quote:
Originally Posted by gosam
Early Position
UTG, UTG+1, and MP1 are what I consider to be early position. I prefer that we open raise something like AQ+, 55+ from UTG, add AJs and KQs in UTG+1, and add AJo and KQo in MP1. We’re obviously going to be pretty tight in general in early position, especially when we’re facing a raise. To an early position raise, we should be 3-betting something like QQ+, AK all of the time and JJ-TT if the player is somewhat loose. Also, we should be calling with all other pocket pairs if the implied odds are good.
Middle Position
MP2 and HJ are what I consider to be middle position. When we’re open raising from MP2, I suggest opening with the MP1 requirements plus any suited broadways (any two cards A-T), and any pocket pair. From HJ, I suggest adding any broadway, as well as A9s-A8s and suited connectors T9s-87s. When facing a middle position raise, we can start to widen our 3-betting range a little if the player is loose enough to warrant it. Again, we should be calling middle position raises with good implied-odds hands like pocket pairs and suited connectors.
Late Position
The CO and BU are what I consider to be late position. When open raising from late position, we have a lot of options based on how tight the players left to act are. If they’re all very tight (tighter than 12/10) then we can often profitably raise with almost any two cards. In general, however, from the CO I recommend always open raising all of the HJ hands plus any suited connector 54s+, any suited ace. From the BU, I recommend always open raising the CO hands plus any suited 1-gapper 64s+, any suited king, and any ace.
Small Blind
Open raising from the small blind is based almost entirely on who is in the big blind. For reference, however, I recommend always opening any two cards 9 or higher, any pocket pair, and any suited connector. If your opponent is very tight, then you can often raise any two and be profitable, but we’ll stick with this open raising range for now. When facing limpers, you should be completing the blind with any good implied odds hand. The hardest part about playing the small blind is that you’ll be in the worst position post-flop in every single hand you play.
Im thankful that you do not believe them to be one in the same. Cheers!Quote:
If I bought in for less then I know I could beat it, but short-stacking is for homos and future cops.
so, thanks for replying.
multitabling for me atm is playing 3-4 for tables as i still have to concentrate on details (not accidentally hitting the fold button with aces etc;)).
nice to have this thread back to life.
now thinking of a suitable question...dont want to spam too much and steal precious time. hrrrm, cant come up with something detailed. questions seem to fit better in the beginners circle.
hags
I think you finally understand why I ragged on you for so long about short-stacking NL.Quote:
Originally Posted by euphoricism
Assume 100 or 200nl FR: we Open AQo in MP and a mediocre nit calls otb
flop comes AK7r
what's our plan yo?
On a typical stars 50 or 100nl table, lots of regs 1 or 2 fish. Which hand would you rather open UTG, 44 or KQs and why/why not? Related...are blockers very important in an unopened pot in early/mid position?
I check here a lot. Villain's range doesn't hit the flop very hard, so we get some value out of bluffs, but more importantly we force him to take that weaker range to another street where he might be more prone to call a bet than he is right now. We can't be worried so much about losing value since the only hands that we get 3 streets of betting in against beat us. It's possible that c/c c/c and betting the river is the best EV line against certain Villains.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigspenda73
Now some people would chime in and say that we should continuation bet here since we would continuation bet with other hands that miss, and that's why I check here "a lot" instead of "every time". In general when dealing with issues of balance, we should be making the most +EV play the majority of the time, which is something you discover fairly quickly in game theory when you start solving toy games for optimal strategy when that strategy is mixed.
On a not particularly loose/spewy type 9-handed full ring table, in later positions, how many limpers ahead warrant the ATC call?Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonitnow
For example, on the button, with crap, 5 limpers ahead, not expecting raises from the SB or BB, is a call justified on the off chance of hitting two pair or better? (certain ATC are obviously better, but I'm talking near trash)?
Or is this type of play ever justified?
The first question is really a big fat it depends, but more specifically it depends on the particulars of the table composition. The more short stacks, the more inclined I am to prefer KQs. The less 3-betting going on, the more inclined I am to open 44. In general I fold both of these UTG in most circumstances.Quote:
Originally Posted by allabout
For your second question, it doesn't really matter that much. What a blocker does in a nutshell is change the way an opponent's range is distributed. For a simple example, if a Villain's range is {KK+} and we hold 22, then that range is 50% AA and 50% KK. If instead we hold A2, then that range is 33% AA and 66% KK. If instead we hold KK, then that range is 85.7% AA and 14.3% KK. If we hold AA on a flop of Kxx, then that range is 25% AA and 75% KK. And so on and so forth. There aren't really any considerations that I can think of that really matter that much for blockers when you're opening in early or middle position. I mean, if you hold AK then it's less likely your opponents will continue because their range contains less hands that hold one of those cards, but that wouldn't be the difference between open-raising AK and open-folding AK. The thing is that the hands that are really good for blockers are good because they contain high cards, which usually makes them good enough to open in the first place, like AA, AK, KK, AQ, QQ, and so on.
I rarely call after any number of limpers without some sort of playability. That means, unless I have a small pocket pair, suitedness or connectedness, I fold. The problem with playing something like 83o is that the only hand you can make to win much money is two pair or trips which is fairly rare even with our good odds in consideration, but even if we make those hands the only way we usually get someone else to put much money in the pot is if we're behind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Monty3038
So when we 3b AQ/AJ vs reasonably loose TAGs, are we playin for stacks when we hit TP?
What kind of boards do u bluff raise when tags are cbetting too much?