Comments: Bankroll Management 101. Important to new players.

Well, a good player at micro stakes could live with 10 buyins becuase he would simply dominate the rest of the field which leads to low variance. As you increase the stakes, you run into more and more better opponents and therefore have to pad the bankroll to stave off risk of ruin.

-'rilla

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Originally Posted by a500lbgorilla

Well, a good player at micro stakes could live with 10 buyins becuase he would simply dominate the rest of the field which leads to low variance. As you increase the stakes, you run into more and more better opponents and therefore have to pad the bankroll to stave off risk of ruin.

-'rilla

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The risk of ruin is a bit higher, but more important are the consequences of ruin imo.

I have to add that turbo SNGs and pokerroom SNGs that are not turbos (that go as fast as turbos at the other sites ) require AT LEAST 30 buy-ins because EVERY SINGLE DAY YOU PLAY you'll be up or down 5 buy-ins
it's just that you can play 15 SNGs a day with such fast blind structures just single-tabling

{This post has been removed}

it just takes time for a player to get that kind of confidence ripp, you're totally right though.

there are players who could turn 1k into 10k in a month or less, but it might take a weaker player a YEAR or more to do so, due to confidence, experience, stakes they play, and skill levels.

My advice to anyone who is going to gamble it up, make sure the game is GOOD. Do not sit down with 8 other sharks thinking you're gonna get an easy $500 double up, because it's just not gonna happen.

Im sorry but playing with 3 buy-ins at 600 NL is just a really really bad idea. You will play scared, theres no easy way around it, and you have a huge risk of going flat broke. The players there are tough so dont think itll be cake-walk doubling up. Know you can beat the 600 NL game before you go and try this with even 6 buy-ins. Of course beating the 200 NL game doesnt count; I can beat the 200 NL game on Party but have difficutly to this day beating the 600 NL, its just that much harder. Plus 600 NL and higher isnt really about grinding anymore, its about bluffing and making moves.

Hello!

I'm new to this forum, but here goes anyway.

I'd say that as long as your bankroll doesn't matter then you could play with just the amount needed to buy in at all. Ok, the fun probably won't last for very long :)

Let's say it's 6pm and I'm deciding wether to go down the pub or stay home and play some games, then I could happily create a bankroll of $30 (going to the pub and spending the evening there WILL set me back $50, but I'd like to shop snacks, some fast food and a sixpack so I'm setting $20 aside for that).
The $30 in this case is probably less a bankroll than the cost for the evening, and if I want to have fun for a prolonged time I should probably play $2 MTT and .05/.10 tables.

What it boils down to, I guess, is that when the money involved is money that hurts, then bankroll management becomes an issue.
For consumption, avoid spending money you need and NEVER spend money you don't have.

Sten

That's fine if you only ever what to play recreationally.

-'rilla

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Originally Posted by a500lbgorilla

That's fine if you only ever what to play recreationally.

-'rilla

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Agreed, but I'd say it's also fine for us learning fish :)

I can't learn to play good poker as long as I'm afraid of going bust (provided, of course, I'm able to learn how to play good poker at all).

Being heavily involved in a TCG (Trading Card Game), I'm aware of the time needed to become a "winning" player, ie one that at least is distinctly above average capacity. It's enough when self-esteem is involved in the learning cost, but adding fear of economy would be disastrous.

I think one valid question is what investment is needed to even start thinking about bankrolling.

I, for example, happen to enjoy MTT. There's a cost involved in learning how to become good enough to reliably end up ITM.
So I spend a pub-night at home instead, and the money "lost" is an investment rather than a loss. I can go to bed frowning at my mistakes, which is bad enough, but I don't add that awful feeling about the money gone (and believe me, I've been there and done that after black-jack sessions I should never have been involved in when I was younger).

As this is a beginner's area I guess experienced players communicate with really, really green ones.
What bankroll is needed for winning $100+ 20 days a month on a yearly basis? That, I believe, is the question a lot of people want answered, because that answer is key to the prospect of becoming a small league pro. However, the correct answer (if there is any) probably doesn't include the cost for being able to play profitable no matter the bankroll, which is the basic reason for my post.

I sincerely hope I haven't offended anyone.

Sten

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Originally Posted by Yappo

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Originally Posted by a500lbgorilla

That's fine if you only ever what to play recreationally.

-'rilla

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Agreed, but I'd say it's also fine for us learning fish :)

I can't learn to play good poker as long as I'm afraid of going bust (provided, of course, I'm able to learn how to play good poker at all).

Being heavily involved in a TCG (Trading Card Game), I'm aware of the time needed to become a "winning" player, ie one that at least is distinctly above average capacity. It's enough when self-esteem is involved in the learning cost, but adding fear of economy would be disastrous.

I think one valid question is what investment is needed to even start thinking about bankrolling.

I, for example, happen to enjoy MTT. There's a cost involved in learning how to become good enough to reliably end up ITM.
So I spend a pub-night at home instead, and the money "lost" is an investment rather than a loss. I can go to bed frowning at my mistakes, which is bad enough, but I don't add that awful feeling about the money gone (and believe me, I've been there and done that after black-jack sessions I should never have been involved in when I was younger).

As this is a beginner's area I guess experienced players communicate with really, really green ones.
What bankroll is needed for winning $100+ 20 days a month on a yearly basis? That, I believe, is the question a lot of people want answered, because that answer is key to the prospect of becoming a small league pro. However, the correct answer (if there is any) probably doesn't include the cost for being able to play profitable no matter the bankroll, which is the basic reason for my post.

I sincerely hope I haven't offended anyone.

Sten

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It all depends on how good you are and how much you want to play. I make 200$+ a day playing hardly at all at 1/2 NL. I play maybe 2-3 hours a day at most, anymore I get bored. But it takes a long time to get to the point where you are that good that you can turn a 30+BB/hour profit at 1/2 NL, so I would say probably your decent 1/2 NL player makes 100$ a day maybe less and would have to play for about 4 hours a day.

If I play Limit games and I have $300, I can play .50/$1 according to the accepted standard of 300 big bets. When should you try $1/$2? Wait until you have $600? Try it as long as you have over $300? What if I have $400 Could I or rather should I try $1/$2 and if my roll dropped back to $300 then you drop back down. A major issue I have always had is when should you try the next level?

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Originally Posted by StarlightCoast

If I play Limit games and I have $300, I can play .50/$1 according to the accepted standard of 300 big bets. When should you try $1/$2? Wait until you have $600? Try it as long as you have over $300? What if I have $400 Could I or rather should I try $1/$2 and if my roll dropped back to $300 then you drop back down. A major issue I have always had is when should you try the next level?

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Go for 1/2 when you have at least 600. Move back down to .50/1 when you get down to 300.

Hello,
Been playing poker for a few years and have played mostly NL tournaments and $4/$8 limit.
My question is about how much money to bring to NL cash tables (live play). Tables like $1/$2 NL up to $5/$10 NL?

I just thought id add a little something on here.
If you play non holdem games for example omaha hi/08, draw, 5 stud, 7 stud but at limit not pot or no limit is the bankroll management the same as other limit based games? eg. 300bbs.
Just wondering for future reference.

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Originally Posted by Miffed22001

I just thought id add a little something on here.
If you play non holdem games for example omaha hi/08, draw, 5 stud, 7 stud but at limit not pot or no limit is the bankroll management the same as other limit based games? eg. 300bbs.
Just wondering for future reference.

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Split pot LIMIT games, you need less. If your playing at not winning half the pot you are a bad player anyway. 7 stud hi and omaha hi, I'd play with around 500bbs, because of the variance in those games. Draw I have no idea.

PL Omaha or omaha/8 you need a hell of a roll.

I read somewhere you need less of a roll to play PLO/8, because the swings are worse because of the halving of the pot.

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Originally Posted by mrO/8

2. There is much less variance than in most other poker games. To be fully bankrolled in O8 requires only about 20-40% of the funds for an equivalent Hold'em Game.

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http://www.o8poker.com/

I guess you could go pretty easy on the BR demands for draw. It's pretty low variance and only 2 betting rounds

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Originally Posted by astrodon

Poker is not a lot different from trading futures or options and there are plenty of excellent books giving good money management rules that would be pertinent to poker as well.

Poker is gambling but it should be in the context of taking risks with skill or becomming highly skilled risk takers. You will not be around very long if you are under capitalized. 90+% of all new small businesses fails in the first two years for this reason alone.

Another very important aspect is dollar cost averaging your bank roll. IE how much of a SET AMOUNT am I putting into the fund from outside sources on a PRESET DAY EACH MONTH ? After all, you should be looking at this like an investment. It IS going to cost you to learn and you WILL experience recessions. Sometimes you will be making a deposit on hot streaks; sometimes on cold ones; sometimes on dead even. But overall you should be meeting your previously defined expectation of return or finding out why not.

In futures trading if you EVER are down more than 50% of your bank roll, you STOP playing altogether until you can define the problem, make the necessary adjustments, THEN AND ONLY THEN continue to play; if need be wait until your outside infusions of money catch you back up.

First and foremost is to have a WELL DEFINED set of rules BEFORE you begin play and NEVER, EVER, FOR ANY REASON break them. History is repleat with the carcasses of many a risk taker that chose to either not have rules or break their rules and to their ultimate, inevitable and certain demise.

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This post is very scary and hostile, but so freakin true. Do you do option's trading? If so I need to pick your brain!

Just a noob question about micro @ Pokerstars. I just want to get my feet wet and play some $0.01/0.02 tables instead of doing well at play money and seemingly wasting my time. The max-buy in is 5$ so 50$ would be 10 max buy-ins. Enough? I know it's less than the 15-buy-in policy.

I know 'rilla talked about $50 being a waste of time (worded differently), but I'm more about improving than making a dash for the big money (I know mirco won't teach me much, but I'll be studying up in the meantime). Bank account is broke-student status so saving 300$ to start at higher stakes might not happen.

Moving up according is of course a consideration, but I just want opinons on starting off.

I know this was covered b4, but I should definately come in $5 max buy-in each game eh.

Thanks in advance,

Johnny K

You could put in $50 and only buy in for $2. Stars $5NL has 0.01/0.02 blinds so its like a very deep stacked version of $2NL.

Alot of the players there only buy in for $2 so you wont be losing much if you start off like that, and that gives you 30 buyins. Once you build it up a bit you can start buying in full :).

I started off (once I decided to get serious) buying in for $3 on the $5 stars tables. Most people buy in for much less (tends to be the good players that buy in full) so you should be fine.

so when talking about bankroll sizes - I see everyone on here multitables (as do I, but 2-3 is all i can keep up on at 6 max NL right now) - So when your talking about 15-30 buy ins (most seem to agree that 20 is a good number here on FTR), is that for EACH table your playing? That seems like a LOT of money to have, even at $25NL if your 4 tabling...Should we just stick to the 5-10% rule for multitabling?

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Originally Posted by LimpinAintEZ

so when talking about bankroll sizes - I see everyone on here multitables (as do I, but 2-3 is all i can keep up on at 6 max NL right now) - So when your talking about 15-30 buy ins (most seem to agree that 20 is a good number here on FTR), is that for EACH table your playing? That seems like a LOT of money to have, even at $25NL if your 4 tabling...Should we just stick to the 5-10% rule for multitabling?

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some people will tell you that the number of tables you play doesnt change the BR you need. Some will tell you the number of tables you play slightly affects the BR you need. Noone will tell you you need 20 buyins per table.

20 buyins period case closed. No matter the number of tables.

The number of tables you play shouldn't be a function of your bankroll. It should be a function of your ability to multitable. I used to play 4 tables. I just begun playing 8 tables, and after a few 1000 hands of it, my stats haven't changed a lick. You're play shouldn't suffer due to the number of tables. The only thing you lack are physical reads on the players, the most important of which you can collect mechanically via Pokertracker and PokerAce hud.

I'm new to poker, but I realise that bankroll management is important.

I was just wondering if you .... don't know the english word for it :oops: ,
you can do it in excel (application that comes with MS office), and it keeps track of what you earn and what expenses you have etc.. If so, what kind of information do you keep track of?

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Originally Posted by Pokerfantomet

I'm new to poker, but I realise that bankroll management is important.

I was just wondering if you .... don't know the english word for it :oops: ,
you can do it in excel (application that comes with MS office), and it keeps track of what you earn and what expenses you have etc.. If so, what kind of information do you keep track of?

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hello neighbour, do you mean "spreadsheet"? anyway most of us use PokerTracker, it records every hand you play (good for cash games). for tournies spreadsheets could be better.

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Originally Posted by sandstorm

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Originally Posted by Pokerfantomet

I'm new to poker, but I realise that bankroll management is important.

I was just wondering if you .... don't know the english word for it :oops: ,
you can do it in excel (application that comes with MS office), and it keeps track of what you earn and what expenses you have etc.. If so, what kind of information do you keep track of?

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hello neighbour, do you mean "spreadsheet"? anyway most of us use PokerTracker, it records every hand you play (good for cash games). for tournies spreadsheets could be better.

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Yeah.. I was thinking of spreadsheets, but pokertracker seems to be perfect. I'll probably get hold of it. Thanks for the tip

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Originally Posted by Cocco_Bill

I kinda feel that it does not matter what hand I have or how I play it. The end result is always the same, I lose the hand if the pot is big.

I lost 3 all ins with AA and won 0. I flopped a set 4 times, won 2 small pots, lost an all in to a flopped straight from the blinds and one with set of kings to a river flush.

I had QQ twice against KK on a board with no overcards.

I won a grand total of one big pot!

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Its about patience.

AA is a good starting hand, but remember that it takes 5 cards to form a hand.

I'd limp in, then if my position improves, come out firing on the flop. Pay to play. Pay to play.

Now that's a quality bump :D

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Originally Posted by Bidip

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Originally Posted by Cocco_Bill

I kinda feel that it does not matter what hand I have or how I play it. The end result is always the same, I lose the hand if the pot is big.

I lost 3 all ins with AA and won 0. I flopped a set 4 times, won 2 small pots, lost an all in to a flopped straight from the blinds and one with set of kings to a river flush.

I had QQ twice against KK on a board with no overcards.

I won a grand total of one big pot!

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Its about patience.

AA is a good starting hand, but remember that it takes 5 cards to form a hand.

I'd limp in, then if my position improves, come out firing on the flop. Pay to play. Pay to play.

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lol, do a search for cocco_bill

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that's what I was thinking, guy just corrected Coco_bill, lolocorrectaballerments.

I have a question, you get dealt AA UTG and you limp? Then you get up and move to the button seat??

limp in and when nobody looks you gotta snitch the button. that´s the secret.

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Originally Posted by Jack Sawyer

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Originally Posted by Cocco_Bill

I kinda feel that it does not matter what hand I have or how I play it. The end result is always the same, I lose the hand if the pot is big.

I lost 3 all ins with AA and won 0. I flopped a set 4 times, won 2 small pots, lost an all in to a flopped straight from the blinds and one with set of kings to a river flush.

I had QQ twice against KK on a board with no overcards.

I won a grand total of one big pot!

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Its about patience.

AA is a good starting hand, but remember that it takes 5 cards to form a hand.

I'd limp in, then if my position improves, come out firing on the flop. Pay to play. Pay to play.

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LOL, that was my first post here on FTR


I was such a fucking n00b. YTF limp w/ AA utg? Position improves? WTF am I talking about?

Amazing how a few months can totally change you for the better/ worse



"AA is a good starting hand..." WTF? was I high?

You were lecturing Cocco_Bill, that's the best bit :)

lol awesome jack

Great stuff.

Thanks for all the imput.

JamesMH

Great stuff.

Thanks for all the input.

JamesMH

Does 20 times the buy in mean 20 times the max buy in????

If i'm playing .02/.05 the max buy in is $10.
Does this mean i need $200 to play these tables???

20 x 100BB buy in. If you are only rolled for $5NL your roll is $100+, that would put 10% of your roll on one table if you buy in with 200BB's, and that's never good. If your going to buy in higher, you still need 20x and if your short stacking I would go with 40x. If your rolled to buy in 20x at 200BB's I would just move up. There is way more value in the next stake at 100BB's compared to the smaller blinds.

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Originally Posted by spoonitnow

Start with about 20 buyins at 2nl or 5nl. This means either $40 or $100. Now, don't put anymore money into your poker account ever. Instead, grind through the limits and get good at poker. Then, the higher you get, take a slightly higher bankroll requirement than the stakes previous so that you better protect your poker bankroll.

When you have $100, play 5nl. (20 buy-ins)
When you have $250, play 10nl. (25 buy-ins)
When you have $750, play 25nl. (30 buy-ins)
When you have $1750, play 50nl. (35 buy-ins)
When you have $4000, play 100nl. (40 buy-ins)
When you have $10000, play 200nl. (50 buy-ins)

If you follow this and regularly play and work on your game, you'll be making a lot of money in less than two years imo.

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I'm posting this here so noobs don't have the same problem i did figuring it out.

wow, spoon, i completely disagree. not with the calculations to br management, but with starting out with $40 and grinding.

what if a doctor wants to be a poker pro? or some dude inherits money?

i understand he may suck, but why not start with $200 at 10NL, if you can afford to? or start at 25NL with $500, if you can?

why not start off as high as you can, and move down accordingly due to bankroll guidelines until you find the level you can beat?

its the "Led Zepplin" concept. Led Zepplin went to Atlantic records while still an undiscovered band back in the day. people thought they were nuts for starting with the best record label in existence, at the time. but, when Jimmy and Robert got asked why they were that gutsy, they got a great response...

why not start as high as you can and work your way down? that way you dont waste time in starting off too low. have confidence in yourself and your abilities, and let the industry tell you your not. dont ever tell that to yourself before you even try.

So you would have a 4 year old start out with no training wheels, then let the bike decide how many he needs? Or maybe start driving Transport trucks and just downsize when you crash, until you end up with a pair of Nikes? IT isn't jsut about winning money, it's about foundation, learning why, and ingraining habits. When your getting stomped at $25NL because you have no clue, $500 is nothing, and may not make it to 10K hands. Watching chips slide across the table does nothing for the learning curve.

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Originally Posted by Chopper

its the "Led Zepplin" concept. Led Zepplin went to Atlantic records while still an undiscovered band back in the day.

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I see what u mean.
However, Zeppelin was actually still using the name "the Yardbirds" when they started out. So they had a bit of a rep allready thanks to GOD himself (Eric Clapton), and another guy named Jeff Beck.

They may not have been as readily accepted to Atlantic if it weren't for this.
Although they had extreme talent and would have made it big regardless.

Long live the Blues..

Also Spoon doesn't even know i put this here. I just did it because i thought it would be usefull to new people like myself that had a hard time figuring it out.

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So having a 7-buy-in 'roll might work if you have more money "in the reserves" in your bank account. But make sure that money is available. I would also advise against trying 400 NL unless you have considerably more money (at least 5k of at-the-site money), having played there a while now, its a hard game to "solidly" beat unless you are HARINGHOLL.

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wow... really

While we already bumped this one, I would like to add that "15+ buy ins" for SNGs is not enough by far imo. Cant speak for regular speed SNGs though, as I dont play them. But I have a avg. ROI of 10% and even when grinding the $6.50s I had 20 BI downswings and 500 game break even stretches. So for turbos I want at least 30 BIs (for lower BIs. moved up to the $16s at 50 BIs). Dunno if you can really get away with half of that at regular speeds.

great thread, me!

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Originally Posted by Chopper

wow, spoon, i completely disagree. not with the calculations to br management, but with starting out with $40 and grinding.

what if a doctor wants to be a poker pro? or some dude inherits money?

i understand he may suck, but why not start with $200 at 10NL, if you can afford to? or start at 25NL with $500, if you can?

why not start off as high as you can, and move down accordingly due to bankroll guidelines until you find the level you can beat?

its the "Led Zepplin" concept. Led Zepplin went to Atlantic records while still an undiscovered band back in the day. people thought they were nuts for starting with the best record label in existence, at the time. but, when Jimmy and Robert got asked why they were that gutsy, they got a great response...

why not start as high as you can and work your way down? that way you dont waste time in starting off too low. have confidence in yourself and your abilities, and let the industry tell you your not. dont ever tell that to yourself before you even try.

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Responding to the bold:

• Driving through the limits as a beginner, it will take equal or less time to become a decent winner at a 3-digit stakes than if you start at that level and "work your way down"
• Going through the limits forces you to cultivate patience and discipline, especially regarding how they handle money, something neither of the people in this description probably have
• Starting off at money values that probably don't mean much for them "in real life" will force them to view the money as chips and an aspect of the game instead of having their monetary value
• It's much easier to learn basics against bad competition than good competition
• Contrary to popular belief, you don't have to lose a lot of money before you become a winning player

Thanks for the suggestions, for limit I usually buyin for 50BB & although, I see a lot of pple go in w/ 30BB.

I generally play at levels that I have 30 to 50 buy-ins at I play bankroll management big time I like to be able to take a hit and keep on ticking just like I did in football built my body to a hilt so when that 250 pound linebacker comes to hit you as a running back you want to be in thde best shape you can be to take the hits and keep carrying the ball to move your team toward victory.

Poker is the same way if your bankroll isn't big enough to take hits and pound forward and go to higher levels then your not building it the right way or you need to learn the fundamentals all over again to becoime a force in the poker world I'm with soupie when he says you need to specialize as an on-line poker player becuase there are way to many types of games you can play out there and by switching from one variation to the next your not going to be playing at optimal levels of play at least for the first few blind orbits which will take away from your profits. So,I recommend the same thing soupie does be a specialist .

I agree that it's best start @ the lowest level with $60 to $100 (or less) and grind your way up. Aside from all the benefits that have been mentioned, it's also important because you STAY AWAY from all the bad habits and frames of mind you can fall into by starting too high.

No matter what level you're at, you want poker to be FUN. So, even though it's a grind, it should be a fun one. If you can't have fun playing @ the lower levels, then it's going to hurt you later when you HAVE to move down and tempt you to take shots and that whole ball of wax.

Ask yourself if a multi-millionaire pro like Chris Ferguson can motivate himself to grind out a $1 to $20k (twice) and zero to $10k, why can't you do it with $60 or $100? Why is there a rush to move up? Poker will always be there 24/7/365.

If your goal is to be a good poker player, have fun, and move up, I think starting at the lowest is the BEST way to go. By not doing that, you're going in with a bad mindset before you've even been dealt a card. Now, if money is no object and learning the game or moving up doesn't matter, then sure, start wherever you like.

I am probably quite good at bankroll management. I have been tinking lately how important bankroll management is, for everyone, in order to make a long term profit without going broke.

i am new here and i just want 2 say that i love this game :) great to met you! :D

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Originally Posted by kingenofpker

i am new here and i just want 2 say that i love this game :) great to met you! :D

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If by some chance I'm wrong (unlikely), welcome to the forum. But I'm willing to bet money we'll never hear from you again after you find out you're not getting the freeroll password. But that's just me. :roll:

Well... I actually lost $300 in about 2 months, and I'm not exactly feeling proud of myself, so, happily I guess I'm not a "donkey" anymore. I had to learn what you say in your post by heart :cry:

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Originally Posted by Airles™

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Originally Posted by kingenofpker

i am new here and i just want 2 say that i love this game :) great to met you! :D

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If by some chance I'm wrong (unlikely), welcome to the forum. But I'm willing to bet money we'll never hear from you again after you find out you're not getting the freeroll password. But that's just me. :roll:

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Boom Head Shot!!!!!!!

LOL!

Hi guys.

I was thinking if someone could do me a little favor.
Today i will start to play with bankroll manegmet for the first time, so i thought if someone would be kind to help me out with wich tournaments i should play and so on.
I will deposit 20$, but I'm not sure what kind of tournaments i can play both for making it interesting and not to risky using to much cash.

And yes, i only play tournaments, no SnG or cashgame.

Sabr

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Originally Posted by Cocco_Bill

Is a 340BB swing uncommon? After making 1300$ in the last week of play winning 7 consecutive days i now lost 340$ in 4 hours of play.

I got 3xAA, KK, QQ all cracked in big pots among other very unfortunate hands. Its like as today the only thing i can get is trap hands.

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Well maybe you just didn't play your hands the right way.

I both wanted to bring this post back to the attention of the newbies on the site and mention I re-read it today as part of my re-education process... and pose a simple question (ran out of time reading the replies)...

Rilla, and others, do you feel 40-50 buy ins is a conservative amount to consider moving up a level playing only 6-max No Limit? Or is that too high/low to risk moving up a level....

I am a BR Nit and considered conservative by most. My philosophy is move up when you have 30 Buy-Ins for the next level with exception of 5NL (20 Buy-Ins):

Start @2NL
@$100, Move up to 5NL
@$300, Move up to 10NL
@$750, Move up to 25NL
@$1500, Move up to 50NL

Incorporate a "Stop Loss" at -10 Buy-Ins for a given level, move back down to previous level if that happens

Hope this helps, I find that this strategy gives you the confidence to know you have really beaten a level and also helps to ease the inevitable stress of variance, coolers & bad beats.

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Originally Posted by Monty3038

I both wanted to bring this post back to the attention of the newbies on the site and mention I re-read it today as part of my re-education process... and pose a simple question (ran out of time reading the replies)...

Rilla, and others, do you feel 40-50 buy ins is a conservative amount to consider moving up a level playing only 6-max No Limit? Or is that too high/low to risk moving up a level....

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Its hard to be too nitty with BR management. If 40-50 buyins is your comfort zone.. go with it.

I've got a quick question. I'm quite underrolled for even NL2. Only ~30$ in my account which puts me at 6 buyins. I've tried to combat this (and allow myself to multitable 10+) by doing 100BB buyins. That is 2$ at NL2 even though max buyin is 5$.

Should I look to change this pattern? Or stick with it until I move a bit higher in my bankroll?

You have plenty of roll, just Buy-In for 100BB.

This is also good practice because as you move 10NL+, your opportunities for starting >100BB deep are much less.

another thing is a lot of so called players like to chase the doller and what i mean by this is they dont understand the variance in playing cash games compared with bankroll management i see a lot of players sitting down with lets say 50 dollers on a 1/2 blinds cash game and think to myself wow they are looking for a fast buck here as we should remember its easy choosing the game to play but are people really choosing the right game for the right amount to be playing for i have learned from experience this and i hope people will reply and let me know if they feel the same about this ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whowants79

another thing is a lot of so called players like to chase the doller and what i mean by this is they dont understand the variance in playing cash games compared with bankroll management i see a lot of players sitting down with lets say 50 dollers on a 1/2 blinds cash game and think to myself wow they are looking for a fast buck here as we should remember its easy choosing the game to play but are people really choosing the right game for the right amount to be playing for i have learned from experience this and i hope people will reply and let me know if they feel the same about this ?

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never learned what a period is did ya? I ran out of breath just reading this to myself.

This thread is awesome, thanks for writing this stuff up for us young hopefuls.

Bankroll management is something that I really need to work on. I like playing 1 sb/ 2 bb nl but I am not bank rolled for it. I rolled through my bankroll in a week for both stars and full tilt altogether lost about 600 dollars