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How can one tell the difference between someone who is a compulsive gambler or someone who is just trying to learn the game? I have lost a total of 150 :oops: so far. I mostly played 25NL and a few 5 1 sit and go. Anyways thanks for the great info on the site.
How can one tell the difference between someone who is a compulsive gambler or someone who is just trying to learn the game? I have lost a total of 150 :oops: so far. I mostly played 25NL and a few 5 1 sit and go. Anyways thanks for the great info on the site.
How can one tell the difference between someone who is a compulsive gambler or someone who is just trying to learn the game? I have lost a total of 150 :oops: so far. I mostly played 25NL and a few 5 1 sit and go. Anyways thanks for the great info on the site.
How can one tell the difference between someone who is a compulsive gambler or someone who is just trying to learn the game? I have lost a total of 150 :oops: so far. I mostly played 25NL and a few 5 1 sit and go. Anyways thanks for the great info on the site.
How can one tell the difference between someone who is a compulsive gambler or someone who is just trying to learn the game? I have lost a total of 150 :oops: so far. I mostly played 25NL and a few 5 1 sit and go. Anyways thanks for the great info on the site.
How can one tell the difference between someone who is a compulsive gambler or someone who is just trying to learn the game? I have lost a total of 150 :oops: so far. I mostly played 25NL and a few 5 1 sit and go. Anyways thanks for the great info on the site.
A compulsive gambler doesn't learn anything.
Are you learning from your experience? And are you continuing to study the strategies provided here?
You have to be able and willing to take a loss while you're learning. I lost $500 in the first month of playing because I knew nothing about poker. I have never played any kind of poker before (let alone no-limit Hold'em). Now, four months later, I have made all that money back and now have a net PROFIT of over $1000 since I started (+$700 this month alone playing online, plus several hundred more in home games).
I learned everything I know from this site.
But you shouldn't have to lose as much as I did before turning it around. I was reckless at first. I'd play while I didn't know what I was doing. There is a lot of good information on this site and in these forums. Learn it. Know it.
One thing, though. Poker is not gambling. It's a game of skill.
A compulsive gambler doesn't learn anything.
Are you learning from your experience? And are you continuing to study the strategies provided here?
You have to be able and willing to take a loss while you're learning. I lost $500 in the first month of playing because I knew nothing about poker. I have never played any kind of poker before (let alone no-limit Hold'em). Now, four months later, I have made all that money back and now have a net PROFIT of over $1000 since I started (+$700 this month alone playing online, plus several hundred more in home games).
I learned everything I know from this site.
But you shouldn't have to lose as much as I did before turning it around. I was reckless at first. I'd play while I didn't know what I was doing. There is a lot of good information on this site and in these forums. Learn it. Know it.
One thing, though. Poker is not gambling. It's a game of skill.
A compulsive gambler doesn't learn anything.
Are you learning from your experience? And are you continuing to study the strategies provided here?
You have to be able and willing to take a loss while you're learning. I lost $500 in the first month of playing because I knew nothing about poker. I have never played any kind of poker before (let alone no-limit Hold'em). Now, four months later, I have made all that money back and now have a net PROFIT of over $1000 since I started (+$700 this month alone playing online, plus several hundred more in home games).
I learned everything I know from this site.
But you shouldn't have to lose as much as I did before turning it around. I was reckless at first. I'd play while I didn't know what I was doing. There is a lot of good information on this site and in these forums. Learn it. Know it.
One thing, though. Poker is not gambling. It's a game of skill.
A compulsive gambler doesn't learn anything.
Are you learning from your experience? And are you continuing to study the strategies provided here?
You have to be able and willing to take a loss while you're learning. I lost $500 in the first month of playing because I knew nothing about poker. I have never played any kind of poker before (let alone no-limit Hold'em). Now, four months later, I have made all that money back and now have a net PROFIT of over $1000 since I started (+$700 this month alone playing online, plus several hundred more in home games).
I learned everything I know from this site.
But you shouldn't have to lose as much as I did before turning it around. I was reckless at first. I'd play while I didn't know what I was doing. There is a lot of good information on this site and in these forums. Learn it. Know it.
One thing, though. Poker is not gambling. It's a game of skill.
A compulsive gambler doesn't learn anything.
Are you learning from your experience? And are you continuing to study the strategies provided here?
You have to be able and willing to take a loss while you're learning. I lost $500 in the first month of playing because I knew nothing about poker. I have never played any kind of poker before (let alone no-limit Hold'em). Now, four months later, I have made all that money back and now have a net PROFIT of over $1000 since I started (+$700 this month alone playing online, plus several hundred more in home games).
I learned everything I know from this site.
But you shouldn't have to lose as much as I did before turning it around. I was reckless at first. I'd play while I didn't know what I was doing. There is a lot of good information on this site and in these forums. Learn it. Know it.
One thing, though. Poker is not gambling. It's a game of skill.
A compulsive gambler doesn't learn anything.
Are you learning from your experience? And are you continuing to study the strategies provided here?
You have to be able and willing to take a loss while you're learning. I lost $500 in the first month of playing because I knew nothing about poker. I have never played any kind of poker before (let alone no-limit Hold'em). Now, four months later, I have made all that money back and now have a net PROFIT of over $1000 since I started (+$700 this month alone playing online, plus several hundred more in home games).
I learned everything I know from this site.
But you shouldn't have to lose as much as I did before turning it around. I was reckless at first. I'd play while I didn't know what I was doing. There is a lot of good information on this site and in these forums. Learn it. Know it.
One thing, though. Poker is not gambling. It's a game of skill.
Luck,
The definition of addiction I like to use is roughly defined as practicing a behavior and being unable to stop despite significant negative conseqences. Per that definition, sure Poker can be an addiction. $150 + time spent being significantly negative depends on your lifestyle and income. It's a very good sign that you're honest about where you stand.
I would advise you to either stick with ring games or Sit n Gos. Both are significantly different beasts. Personally, I think Sit n Gos are harder because the gameplay changes up A LOT as they progress. However, the bankroll swings aren't as nastly. Also, I don't think being the 3rd or 4rth best player at the table is as rewarding since idiot chips are often burned early (too often to other idiots) and eventually you must take down the sharks and lucky players on tall stacks. However, in a ring game I can avoid marginal situations with strong players and scout out soft games. Granted, this is coming from someone who is an overall loser in Sit n Gos (I've won once and gotten 3rd 3 or 4 times, but I don't play them much.)
Xianti,
Dang man! We need to compare notes sometime...
Luck,
The definition of addiction I like to use is roughly defined as practicing a behavior and being unable to stop despite significant negative conseqences. Per that definition, sure Poker can be an addiction. $150 + time spent being significantly negative depends on your lifestyle and income. It's a very good sign that you're honest about where you stand.
I would advise you to either stick with ring games or Sit n Gos. Both are significantly different beasts. Personally, I think Sit n Gos are harder because the gameplay changes up A LOT as they progress. However, the bankroll swings aren't as nastly. Also, I don't think being the 3rd or 4rth best player at the table is as rewarding since idiot chips are often burned early (too often to other idiots) and eventually you must take down the sharks and lucky players on tall stacks. However, in a ring game I can avoid marginal situations with strong players and scout out soft games. Granted, this is coming from someone who is an overall loser in Sit n Gos (I've won once and gotten 3rd 3 or 4 times, but I don't play them much.)
Xianti,
Dang man! We need to compare notes sometime...
Luck,
The definition of addiction I like to use is roughly defined as practicing a behavior and being unable to stop despite significant negative conseqences. Per that definition, sure Poker can be an addiction. $150 + time spent being significantly negative depends on your lifestyle and income. It's a very good sign that you're honest about where you stand.
I would advise you to either stick with ring games or Sit n Gos. Both are significantly different beasts. Personally, I think Sit n Gos are harder because the gameplay changes up A LOT as they progress. However, the bankroll swings aren't as nastly. Also, I don't think being the 3rd or 4rth best player at the table is as rewarding since idiot chips are often burned early (too often to other idiots) and eventually you must take down the sharks and lucky players on tall stacks. However, in a ring game I can avoid marginal situations with strong players and scout out soft games. Granted, this is coming from someone who is an overall loser in Sit n Gos (I've won once and gotten 3rd 3 or 4 times, but I don't play them much.)
Xianti,
Dang man! We need to compare notes sometime...
Luck,
The definition of addiction I like to use is roughly defined as practicing a behavior and being unable to stop despite significant negative conseqences. Per that definition, sure Poker can be an addiction. $150 + time spent being significantly negative depends on your lifestyle and income. It's a very good sign that you're honest about where you stand.
I would advise you to either stick with ring games or Sit n Gos. Both are significantly different beasts. Personally, I think Sit n Gos are harder because the gameplay changes up A LOT as they progress. However, the bankroll swings aren't as nastly. Also, I don't think being the 3rd or 4rth best player at the table is as rewarding since idiot chips are often burned early (too often to other idiots) and eventually you must take down the sharks and lucky players on tall stacks. However, in a ring game I can avoid marginal situations with strong players and scout out soft games. Granted, this is coming from someone who is an overall loser in Sit n Gos (I've won once and gotten 3rd 3 or 4 times, but I don't play them much.)
Xianti,
Dang man! We need to compare notes sometime...
Luck,
The definition of addiction I like to use is roughly defined as practicing a behavior and being unable to stop despite significant negative conseqences. Per that definition, sure Poker can be an addiction. $150 + time spent being significantly negative depends on your lifestyle and income. It's a very good sign that you're honest about where you stand.
I would advise you to either stick with ring games or Sit n Gos. Both are significantly different beasts. Personally, I think Sit n Gos are harder because the gameplay changes up A LOT as they progress. However, the bankroll swings aren't as nastly. Also, I don't think being the 3rd or 4rth best player at the table is as rewarding since idiot chips are often burned early (too often to other idiots) and eventually you must take down the sharks and lucky players on tall stacks. However, in a ring game I can avoid marginal situations with strong players and scout out soft games. Granted, this is coming from someone who is an overall loser in Sit n Gos (I've won once and gotten 3rd 3 or 4 times, but I don't play them much.)
Xianti,
Dang man! We need to compare notes sometime...
Luck,
The definition of addiction I like to use is roughly defined as practicing a behavior and being unable to stop despite significant negative conseqences. Per that definition, sure Poker can be an addiction. $150 + time spent being significantly negative depends on your lifestyle and income. It's a very good sign that you're honest about where you stand.
I would advise you to either stick with ring games or Sit n Gos. Both are significantly different beasts. Personally, I think Sit n Gos are harder because the gameplay changes up A LOT as they progress. However, the bankroll swings aren't as nastly. Also, I don't think being the 3rd or 4rth best player at the table is as rewarding since idiot chips are often burned early (too often to other idiots) and eventually you must take down the sharks and lucky players on tall stacks. However, in a ring game I can avoid marginal situations with strong players and scout out soft games. Granted, this is coming from someone who is an overall loser in Sit n Gos (I've won once and gotten 3rd 3 or 4 times, but I don't play them much.)
Xianti,
Dang man! We need to compare notes sometime...
I'm afraid I don't take player notes as well or as often as you do. I usually have the notable hand histories emailed to me and then review them and take notes later when I have some spare time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord
Unfortunately, I haven't had much spare time lately, as I'm VERY busy at work. I haven't even played online in over a week! :arrow: :(
I'll get back online this weekend, hopefully.
I'm afraid I don't take player notes as well or as often as you do. I usually have the notable hand histories emailed to me and then review them and take notes later when I have some spare time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord
Unfortunately, I haven't had much spare time lately, as I'm VERY busy at work. I haven't even played online in over a week! :arrow: :(
I'll get back online this weekend, hopefully.
I'm afraid I don't take player notes as well or as often as you do. I usually have the notable hand histories emailed to me and then review them and take notes later when I have some spare time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord
Unfortunately, I haven't had much spare time lately, as I'm VERY busy at work. I haven't even played online in over a week! :arrow: :(
I'll get back online this weekend, hopefully.
I'm afraid I don't take player notes as well or as often as you do. I usually have the notable hand histories emailed to me and then review them and take notes later when I have some spare time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord
Unfortunately, I haven't had much spare time lately, as I'm VERY busy at work. I haven't even played online in over a week! :arrow: :(
I'll get back online this weekend, hopefully.
I'm afraid I don't take player notes as well or as often as you do. I usually have the notable hand histories emailed to me and then review them and take notes later when I have some spare time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord
Unfortunately, I haven't had much spare time lately, as I'm VERY busy at work. I haven't even played online in over a week! :arrow: :(
I'll get back online this weekend, hopefully.
I'm afraid I don't take player notes as well or as often as you do. I usually have the notable hand histories emailed to me and then review them and take notes later when I have some spare time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord
Unfortunately, I haven't had much spare time lately, as I'm VERY busy at work. I haven't even played online in over a week! :arrow: :(
I'll get back online this weekend, hopefully.
Luck, try this:
Practice identifying soft games. This is the single most important thing early on. Watch how many people are limping in. If it's 2 or less frequently, leave. If it gets to the blinds more than once it's a really bad sign. Look for players that will call pre-flop raises with crap. Watch the successful players. What hands they play and how they play them. Most of your time at the table is spent watching, get good at it.
Buy into a $25 no-limit ring game at $12. If your stack gets below that, buy more chips or reassess the table conditions and leave (there is NO excuse for making a despiration play on a PP ring game.) If your stack gets to around $24-36, leave.
Only cold call big all-in bets with AA and KK, it doesn't matter how mad they are. Likewise, if there is $4 or more on the table either one is an all-in bet. At that point you really don't care if you're called or not (if you're at the right table someone probably will call.) Calling with AK might be safe too, but it's the kind of hand you really want to see a flop with.
Play these hands on raises and call with them:
AA, KK, QQ, JJ
AK, AQ, KQ
Jacks or better suited
Limp in with these hands (no more than $1 pre-flop):
Jacks or better unsuited
Tens or better suited
Any pocket pair (drop it like a bad habbit unless you get your set.)
Don't bother to defend your blinds. They should not be a significant leak if you pick the right game. Perhaps call 25c-50c on the above plus Axs and tight/semi-tight suited connectors. If it comes down to a battle of the blinds you're at the wrong table.
Buying in a little short does a few favorable things for a new player. It takes away later betting rounds on big hands, leaving less room to make a bad call. It becomes harder to raise you out of a draw or the damage done by calling on marginal pot odds is smaller. It protects you from other players playing set against $2+ raises, since the payoff will have less profit. Other players will try to push you around a little by putting you all-in after the turn with a larger bet than they might otherwise make to force a fold. You're playing premium hands, if you got a good hand going disappoint them. Finally, it limits the swing caused by a single poor decision or bad beat.
Luck, try this:
Practice identifying soft games. This is the single most important thing early on. Watch how many people are limping in. If it's 2 or less frequently, leave. If it gets to the blinds more than once it's a really bad sign. Look for players that will call pre-flop raises with crap. Watch the successful players. What hands they play and how they play them. Most of your time at the table is spent watching, get good at it.
Buy into a $25 no-limit ring game at $12. If your stack gets below that, buy more chips or reassess the table conditions and leave (there is NO excuse for making a despiration play on a PP ring game.) If your stack gets to around $24-36, leave.
Only cold call big all-in bets with AA and KK, it doesn't matter how mad they are. Likewise, if there is $4 or more on the table either one is an all-in bet. At that point you really don't care if you're called or not (if you're at the right table someone probably will call.) Calling with AK might be safe too, but it's the kind of hand you really want to see a flop with.
Play these hands on raises and call with them:
AA, KK, QQ, JJ
AK, AQ, KQ
Jacks or better suited
Limp in with these hands (no more than $1 pre-flop):
Jacks or better unsuited
Tens or better suited
Any pocket pair (drop it like a bad habbit unless you get your set.)
Don't bother to defend your blinds. They should not be a significant leak if you pick the right game. Perhaps call 25c-50c on the above plus Axs and tight/semi-tight suited connectors. If it comes down to a battle of the blinds you're at the wrong table.
Buying in a little short does a few favorable things for a new player. It takes away later betting rounds on big hands, leaving less room to make a bad call. It becomes harder to raise you out of a draw or the damage done by calling on marginal pot odds is smaller. It protects you from other players playing set against $2+ raises, since the payoff will have less profit. Other players will try to push you around a little by putting you all-in after the turn with a larger bet than they might otherwise make to force a fold. You're playing premium hands, if you got a good hand going disappoint them. Finally, it limits the swing caused by a single poor decision or bad beat.
Luck, try this:
Practice identifying soft games. This is the single most important thing early on. Watch how many people are limping in. If it's 2 or less frequently, leave. If it gets to the blinds more than once it's a really bad sign. Look for players that will call pre-flop raises with crap. Watch the successful players. What hands they play and how they play them. Most of your time at the table is spent watching, get good at it.
Buy into a $25 no-limit ring game at $12. If your stack gets below that, buy more chips or reassess the table conditions and leave (there is NO excuse for making a despiration play on a PP ring game.) If your stack gets to around $24-36, leave.
Only cold call big all-in bets with AA and KK, it doesn't matter how mad they are. Likewise, if there is $4 or more on the table either one is an all-in bet. At that point you really don't care if you're called or not (if you're at the right table someone probably will call.) Calling with AK might be safe too, but it's the kind of hand you really want to see a flop with.
Play these hands on raises and call with them:
AA, KK, QQ, JJ
AK, AQ, KQ
Jacks or better suited
Limp in with these hands (no more than $1 pre-flop):
Jacks or better unsuited
Tens or better suited
Any pocket pair (drop it like a bad habbit unless you get your set.)
Don't bother to defend your blinds. They should not be a significant leak if you pick the right game. Perhaps call 25c-50c on the above plus Axs and tight/semi-tight suited connectors. If it comes down to a battle of the blinds you're at the wrong table.
Buying in a little short does a few favorable things for a new player. It takes away later betting rounds on big hands, leaving less room to make a bad call. It becomes harder to raise you out of a draw or the damage done by calling on marginal pot odds is smaller. It protects you from other players playing set against $2+ raises, since the payoff will have less profit. Other players will try to push you around a little by putting you all-in after the turn with a larger bet than they might otherwise make to force a fold. You're playing premium hands, if you got a good hand going disappoint them. Finally, it limits the swing caused by a single poor decision or bad beat.
Luck, try this:
Practice identifying soft games. This is the single most important thing early on. Watch how many people are limping in. If it's 2 or less frequently, leave. If it gets to the blinds more than once it's a really bad sign. Look for players that will call pre-flop raises with crap. Watch the successful players. What hands they play and how they play them. Most of your time at the table is spent watching, get good at it.
Buy into a $25 no-limit ring game at $12. If your stack gets below that, buy more chips or reassess the table conditions and leave (there is NO excuse for making a despiration play on a PP ring game.) If your stack gets to around $24-36, leave.
Only cold call big all-in bets with AA and KK, it doesn't matter how mad they are. Likewise, if there is $4 or more on the table either one is an all-in bet. At that point you really don't care if you're called or not (if you're at the right table someone probably will call.) Calling with AK might be safe too, but it's the kind of hand you really want to see a flop with.
Play these hands on raises and call with them:
AA, KK, QQ, JJ
AK, AQ, KQ
Jacks or better suited
Limp in with these hands (no more than $1 pre-flop):
Jacks or better unsuited
Tens or better suited
Any pocket pair (drop it like a bad habbit unless you get your set.)
Don't bother to defend your blinds. They should not be a significant leak if you pick the right game. Perhaps call 25c-50c on the above plus Axs and tight/semi-tight suited connectors. If it comes down to a battle of the blinds you're at the wrong table.
Buying in a little short does a few favorable things for a new player. It takes away later betting rounds on big hands, leaving less room to make a bad call. It becomes harder to raise you out of a draw or the damage done by calling on marginal pot odds is smaller. It protects you from other players playing set against $2+ raises, since the payoff will have less profit. Other players will try to push you around a little by putting you all-in after the turn with a larger bet than they might otherwise make to force a fold. You're playing premium hands, if you got a good hand going disappoint them. Finally, it limits the swing caused by a single poor decision or bad beat.
Luck, try this:
Practice identifying soft games. This is the single most important thing early on. Watch how many people are limping in. If it's 2 or less frequently, leave. If it gets to the blinds more than once it's a really bad sign. Look for players that will call pre-flop raises with crap. Watch the successful players. What hands they play and how they play them. Most of your time at the table is spent watching, get good at it.
Buy into a $25 no-limit ring game at $12. If your stack gets below that, buy more chips or reassess the table conditions and leave (there is NO excuse for making a despiration play on a PP ring game.) If your stack gets to around $24-36, leave.
Only cold call big all-in bets with AA and KK, it doesn't matter how mad they are. Likewise, if there is $4 or more on the table either one is an all-in bet. At that point you really don't care if you're called or not (if you're at the right table someone probably will call.) Calling with AK might be safe too, but it's the kind of hand you really want to see a flop with.
Play these hands on raises and call with them:
AA, KK, QQ, JJ
AK, AQ, KQ
Jacks or better suited
Limp in with these hands (no more than $1 pre-flop):
Jacks or better unsuited
Tens or better suited
Any pocket pair (drop it like a bad habbit unless you get your set.)
Don't bother to defend your blinds. They should not be a significant leak if you pick the right game. Perhaps call 25c-50c on the above plus Axs and tight/semi-tight suited connectors. If it comes down to a battle of the blinds you're at the wrong table.
Buying in a little short does a few favorable things for a new player. It takes away later betting rounds on big hands, leaving less room to make a bad call. It becomes harder to raise you out of a draw or the damage done by calling on marginal pot odds is smaller. It protects you from other players playing set against $2+ raises, since the payoff will have less profit. Other players will try to push you around a little by putting you all-in after the turn with a larger bet than they might otherwise make to force a fold. You're playing premium hands, if you got a good hand going disappoint them. Finally, it limits the swing caused by a single poor decision or bad beat.
Luck, try this:
Practice identifying soft games. This is the single most important thing early on. Watch how many people are limping in. If it's 2 or less frequently, leave. If it gets to the blinds more than once it's a really bad sign. Look for players that will call pre-flop raises with crap. Watch the successful players. What hands they play and how they play them. Most of your time at the table is spent watching, get good at it.
Buy into a $25 no-limit ring game at $12. If your stack gets below that, buy more chips or reassess the table conditions and leave (there is NO excuse for making a despiration play on a PP ring game.) If your stack gets to around $24-36, leave.
Only cold call big all-in bets with AA and KK, it doesn't matter how mad they are. Likewise, if there is $4 or more on the table either one is an all-in bet. At that point you really don't care if you're called or not (if you're at the right table someone probably will call.) Calling with AK might be safe too, but it's the kind of hand you really want to see a flop with.
Play these hands on raises and call with them:
AA, KK, QQ, JJ
AK, AQ, KQ
Jacks or better suited
Limp in with these hands (no more than $1 pre-flop):
Jacks or better unsuited
Tens or better suited
Any pocket pair (drop it like a bad habbit unless you get your set.)
Don't bother to defend your blinds. They should not be a significant leak if you pick the right game. Perhaps call 25c-50c on the above plus Axs and tight/semi-tight suited connectors. If it comes down to a battle of the blinds you're at the wrong table.
Buying in a little short does a few favorable things for a new player. It takes away later betting rounds on big hands, leaving less room to make a bad call. It becomes harder to raise you out of a draw or the damage done by calling on marginal pot odds is smaller. It protects you from other players playing set against $2+ raises, since the payoff will have less profit. Other players will try to push you around a little by putting you all-in after the turn with a larger bet than they might otherwise make to force a fold. You're playing premium hands, if you got a good hand going disappoint them. Finally, it limits the swing caused by a single poor decision or bad beat.
Thank you for your quick replies. Before I started playing online games I was doing quite well in home games I would buy in for 10 and usually be able to at least make triple or 5x my money with 6 people there. The -150 caused me to go 28 down over all so I am still not hurting. I am college student but I can afford about 200 more before I really have to change my life style which is the one thing I do not want to change. By the way how much would you recommend to buy in. is 50 dollars enough to handle the swings in NL 25 or should I just buy 100? I guess with the strategy you suggested I could easily just deposit 50. Once my midterms are over I will give it another try. As always thank you all for the great advice.
P.S over spring break I plan on reading Texas holdem for advance players.
Thank you for your quick replies. Before I started playing online games I was doing quite well in home games I would buy in for 10 and usually be able to at least make triple or 5x my money with 6 people there. The -150 caused me to go 28 down over all so I am still not hurting. I am college student but I can afford about 200 more before I really have to change my life style which is the one thing I do not want to change. By the way how much would you recommend to buy in. is 50 dollars enough to handle the swings in NL 25 or should I just buy 100? I guess with the strategy you suggested I could easily just deposit 50. Once my midterms are over I will give it another try. As always thank you all for the great advice.
P.S over spring break I plan on reading Texas holdem for advance players.
Thank you for your quick replies. Before I started playing online games I was doing quite well in home games I would buy in for 10 and usually be able to at least make triple or 5x my money with 6 people there. The -150 caused me to go 28 down over all so I am still not hurting. I am college student but I can afford about 200 more before I really have to change my life style which is the one thing I do not want to change. By the way how much would you recommend to buy in. is 50 dollars enough to handle the swings in NL 25 or should I just buy 100? I guess with the strategy you suggested I could easily just deposit 50. Once my midterms are over I will give it another try. As always thank you all for the great advice.
P.S over spring break I plan on reading Texas holdem for advance players.
Thank you for your quick replies. Before I started playing online games I was doing quite well in home games I would buy in for 10 and usually be able to at least make triple or 5x my money with 6 people there. The -150 caused me to go 28 down over all so I am still not hurting. I am college student but I can afford about 200 more before I really have to change my life style which is the one thing I do not want to change. By the way how much would you recommend to buy in. is 50 dollars enough to handle the swings in NL 25 or should I just buy 100? I guess with the strategy you suggested I could easily just deposit 50. Once my midterms are over I will give it another try. As always thank you all for the great advice.
P.S over spring break I plan on reading Texas holdem for advance players.
Thank you for your quick replies. Before I started playing online games I was doing quite well in home games I would buy in for 10 and usually be able to at least make triple or 5x my money with 6 people there. The -150 caused me to go 28 down over all so I am still not hurting. I am college student but I can afford about 200 more before I really have to change my life style which is the one thing I do not want to change. By the way how much would you recommend to buy in. is 50 dollars enough to handle the swings in NL 25 or should I just buy 100? I guess with the strategy you suggested I could easily just deposit 50. Once my midterms are over I will give it another try. As always thank you all for the great advice.
P.S over spring break I plan on reading Texas holdem for advance players.
Thank you for your quick replies. Before I started playing online games I was doing quite well in home games I would buy in for 10 and usually be able to at least make triple or 5x my money with 6 people there. The -150 caused me to go 28 down over all so I am still not hurting. I am college student but I can afford about 200 more before I really have to change my life style which is the one thing I do not want to change. By the way how much would you recommend to buy in. is 50 dollars enough to handle the swings in NL 25 or should I just buy 100? I guess with the strategy you suggested I could easily just deposit 50. Once my midterms are over I will give it another try. As always thank you all for the great advice.
P.S over spring break I plan on reading Texas holdem for advance players.
$250 Minimum bankroll for $25 no limit. I regularly take $100 hits before comming back. Dropping $25 on a hand isn't uncommon, my worst was $50 (set of Kings took down my set of 8s which were the second best set out.) But then again I'm far from the best player on the board and just recently moved away from the $12 buy-in strategy that rebuilt my bankroll from $250 to $500 and learned some hard lessons about when to make the big laydown.Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
Given your current budget, you might want to rethink your current ablity to handle swings and stick to the home games for a while...
$250 Minimum bankroll for $25 no limit. I regularly take $100 hits before comming back. Dropping $25 on a hand isn't uncommon, my worst was $50 (set of Kings took down my set of 8s which were the second best set out.) But then again I'm far from the best player on the board and just recently moved away from the $12 buy-in strategy that rebuilt my bankroll from $250 to $500 and learned some hard lessons about when to make the big laydown.Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
Given your current budget, you might want to rethink your current ablity to handle swings and stick to the home games for a while...
$250 Minimum bankroll for $25 no limit. I regularly take $100 hits before comming back. Dropping $25 on a hand isn't uncommon, my worst was $50 (set of Kings took down my set of 8s which were the second best set out.) But then again I'm far from the best player on the board and just recently moved away from the $12 buy-in strategy that rebuilt my bankroll from $250 to $500 and learned some hard lessons about when to make the big laydown.Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
Given your current budget, you might want to rethink your current ablity to handle swings and stick to the home games for a while...
$250 Minimum bankroll for $25 no limit. I regularly take $100 hits before comming back. Dropping $25 on a hand isn't uncommon, my worst was $50 (set of Kings took down my set of 8s which were the second best set out.) But then again I'm far from the best player on the board and just recently moved away from the $12 buy-in strategy that rebuilt my bankroll from $250 to $500 and learned some hard lessons about when to make the big laydown.Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
Given your current budget, you might want to rethink your current ablity to handle swings and stick to the home games for a while...
$250 Minimum bankroll for $25 no limit. I regularly take $100 hits before comming back. Dropping $25 on a hand isn't uncommon, my worst was $50 (set of Kings took down my set of 8s which were the second best set out.) But then again I'm far from the best player on the board and just recently moved away from the $12 buy-in strategy that rebuilt my bankroll from $250 to $500 and learned some hard lessons about when to make the big laydown.Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
Given your current budget, you might want to rethink your current ablity to handle swings and stick to the home games for a while...
$250 Minimum bankroll for $25 no limit. I regularly take $100 hits before comming back. Dropping $25 on a hand isn't uncommon, my worst was $50 (set of Kings took down my set of 8s which were the second best set out.) But then again I'm far from the best player on the board and just recently moved away from the $12 buy-in strategy that rebuilt my bankroll from $250 to $500 and learned some hard lessons about when to make the big laydown.Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
Given your current budget, you might want to rethink your current ablity to handle swings and stick to the home games for a while...
That is a good book. Tyson and Eric have read it and highly recommend it, and they've dispensed a lot of what they've learned from that book here. The difference is that they've mixed in what they've learned of no-limit Hold'em and online games to modify some of the strategies (that book is generally for limit Hold'em).Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
I am slowly getting through it, but it's tough to make myself sit down to read it in my spare time when I'm doing quite well playing instead.
Still, it's always a good idea to read and research all that you can.
Speaking of which...
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/....php?p=500#500
That is a good book. Tyson and Eric have read it and highly recommend it, and they've dispensed a lot of what they've learned from that book here. The difference is that they've mixed in what they've learned of no-limit Hold'em and online games to modify some of the strategies (that book is generally for limit Hold'em).Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
I am slowly getting through it, but it's tough to make myself sit down to read it in my spare time when I'm doing quite well playing instead.
Still, it's always a good idea to read and research all that you can.
Speaking of which...
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/....php?p=500#500
That is a good book. Tyson and Eric have read it and highly recommend it, and they've dispensed a lot of what they've learned from that book here. The difference is that they've mixed in what they've learned of no-limit Hold'em and online games to modify some of the strategies (that book is generally for limit Hold'em).Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
I am slowly getting through it, but it's tough to make myself sit down to read it in my spare time when I'm doing quite well playing instead.
Still, it's always a good idea to read and research all that you can.
Speaking of which...
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/....php?p=500#500
That is a good book. Tyson and Eric have read it and highly recommend it, and they've dispensed a lot of what they've learned from that book here. The difference is that they've mixed in what they've learned of no-limit Hold'em and online games to modify some of the strategies (that book is generally for limit Hold'em).Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
I am slowly getting through it, but it's tough to make myself sit down to read it in my spare time when I'm doing quite well playing instead.
Still, it's always a good idea to read and research all that you can.
Speaking of which...
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/....php?p=500#500
That is a good book. Tyson and Eric have read it and highly recommend it, and they've dispensed a lot of what they've learned from that book here. The difference is that they've mixed in what they've learned of no-limit Hold'em and online games to modify some of the strategies (that book is generally for limit Hold'em).Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
I am slowly getting through it, but it's tough to make myself sit down to read it in my spare time when I'm doing quite well playing instead.
Still, it's always a good idea to read and research all that you can.
Speaking of which...
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/....php?p=500#500
That is a good book. Tyson and Eric have read it and highly recommend it, and they've dispensed a lot of what they've learned from that book here. The difference is that they've mixed in what they've learned of no-limit Hold'em and online games to modify some of the strategies (that book is generally for limit Hold'em).Quote:
Originally Posted by !Luck
I am slowly getting through it, but it's tough to make myself sit down to read it in my spare time when I'm doing quite well playing instead.
Still, it's always a good idea to read and research all that you can.
Speaking of which...
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/....php?p=500#500
Not to mention that the book assumes you're playing against fairly rational opponents. No mention of what do in situtations like dealing with the guy who likes to go all-in pre-flop whenever the hand number is divisable by 7, or the guy that limps in with 25o UTG, or that guy that plays every hand or the guy that calls just about anything pre-flop on any two suited cards...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xianti
Also, raising on a draw in position to get a "free card" is mentioned in the book. Doing that on a no-limit table with oponents willing to go nuclear with top pair is just asking for a beating...
Not to mention that the book assumes you're playing against fairly rational opponents. No mention of what do in situtations like dealing with the guy who likes to go all-in pre-flop whenever the hand number is divisable by 7, or the guy that limps in with 25o UTG, or that guy that plays every hand or the guy that calls just about anything pre-flop on any two suited cards...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xianti
Also, raising on a draw in position to get a "free card" is mentioned in the book. Doing that on a no-limit table with oponents willing to go nuclear with top pair is just asking for a beating...
Not to mention that the book assumes you're playing against fairly rational opponents. No mention of what do in situtations like dealing with the guy who likes to go all-in pre-flop whenever the hand number is divisable by 7, or the guy that limps in with 25o UTG, or that guy that plays every hand or the guy that calls just about anything pre-flop on any two suited cards...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xianti
Also, raising on a draw in position to get a "free card" is mentioned in the book. Doing that on a no-limit table with oponents willing to go nuclear with top pair is just asking for a beating...
Not to mention that the book assumes you're playing against fairly rational opponents. No mention of what do in situtations like dealing with the guy who likes to go all-in pre-flop whenever the hand number is divisable by 7, or the guy that limps in with 25o UTG, or that guy that plays every hand or the guy that calls just about anything pre-flop on any two suited cards...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xianti
Also, raising on a draw in position to get a "free card" is mentioned in the book. Doing that on a no-limit table with oponents willing to go nuclear with top pair is just asking for a beating...
Not to mention that the book assumes you're playing against fairly rational opponents. No mention of what do in situtations like dealing with the guy who likes to go all-in pre-flop whenever the hand number is divisable by 7, or the guy that limps in with 25o UTG, or that guy that plays every hand or the guy that calls just about anything pre-flop on any two suited cards...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xianti
Also, raising on a draw in position to get a "free card" is mentioned in the book. Doing that on a no-limit table with oponents willing to go nuclear with top pair is just asking for a beating...
Not to mention that the book assumes you're playing against fairly rational opponents. No mention of what do in situtations like dealing with the guy who likes to go all-in pre-flop whenever the hand number is divisable by 7, or the guy that limps in with 25o UTG, or that guy that plays every hand or the guy that calls just about anything pre-flop on any two suited cards...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xianti
Also, raising on a draw in position to get a "free card" is mentioned in the book. Doing that on a no-limit table with oponents willing to go nuclear with top pair is just asking for a beating...
I am a bit surprised on the bankroll required. I will to really think long and hard before placing that kind of money into an online account. By the way if I start a new account would I be able to get a deposit bonus, if I use the same bank account by different email?
Once again thank you for the advice.
I am a bit surprised on the bankroll required. I will to really think long and hard before placing that kind of money into an online account. By the way if I start a new account would I be able to get a deposit bonus, if I use the same bank account by different email?
Once again thank you for the advice.
I am a bit surprised on the bankroll required. I will to really think long and hard before placing that kind of money into an online account. By the way if I start a new account would I be able to get a deposit bonus, if I use the same bank account by different email?
Once again thank you for the advice.
I am a bit surprised on the bankroll required. I will to really think long and hard before placing that kind of money into an online account. By the way if I start a new account would I be able to get a deposit bonus, if I use the same bank account by different email?
Once again thank you for the advice.
I am a bit surprised on the bankroll required. I will to really think long and hard before placing that kind of money into an online account. By the way if I start a new account would I be able to get a deposit bonus, if I use the same bank account by different email?
Once again thank you for the advice.
I am a bit surprised on the bankroll required. I will to really think long and hard before placing that kind of money into an online account. By the way if I start a new account would I be able to get a deposit bonus, if I use the same bank account by different email?
Once again thank you for the advice.
personally I always want a bankroll of about 75-100, i've never run out of money on pp so far.
As for losing on online poker, I played with play chips for a loooooong time before going to real money. Its hard but sometimes you can find a table with players that play seriously (or actually know how to play). I honed my strategy there, deciding which starting hands I like and what not. After being frustrated by getting called by the worst hands and losing I went to real money tables. Also before "sitting" at a real money table, I scout the table for several hands, checking whos tight, loose, maniac. I don't want everyone at the table to be good, why make it harder to make money? Unless youre looking for a serious challenge. Also I always like to see a loose/maniac player with a big stack at the table to set my targets to.
personally I always want a bankroll of about 75-100, i've never run out of money on pp so far.
As for losing on online poker, I played with play chips for a loooooong time before going to real money. Its hard but sometimes you can find a table with players that play seriously (or actually know how to play). I honed my strategy there, deciding which starting hands I like and what not. After being frustrated by getting called by the worst hands and losing I went to real money tables. Also before "sitting" at a real money table, I scout the table for several hands, checking whos tight, loose, maniac. I don't want everyone at the table to be good, why make it harder to make money? Unless youre looking for a serious challenge. Also I always like to see a loose/maniac player with a big stack at the table to set my targets to.
personally I always want a bankroll of about 75-100, i've never run out of money on pp so far.
As for losing on online poker, I played with play chips for a loooooong time before going to real money. Its hard but sometimes you can find a table with players that play seriously (or actually know how to play). I honed my strategy there, deciding which starting hands I like and what not. After being frustrated by getting called by the worst hands and losing I went to real money tables. Also before "sitting" at a real money table, I scout the table for several hands, checking whos tight, loose, maniac. I don't want everyone at the table to be good, why make it harder to make money? Unless youre looking for a serious challenge. Also I always like to see a loose/maniac player with a big stack at the table to set my targets to.
personally I always want a bankroll of about 75-100, i've never run out of money on pp so far.
As for losing on online poker, I played with play chips for a loooooong time before going to real money. Its hard but sometimes you can find a table with players that play seriously (or actually know how to play). I honed my strategy there, deciding which starting hands I like and what not. After being frustrated by getting called by the worst hands and losing I went to real money tables. Also before "sitting" at a real money table, I scout the table for several hands, checking whos tight, loose, maniac. I don't want everyone at the table to be good, why make it harder to make money? Unless youre looking for a serious challenge. Also I always like to see a loose/maniac player with a big stack at the table to set my targets to.
personally I always want a bankroll of about 75-100, i've never run out of money on pp so far.
As for losing on online poker, I played with play chips for a loooooong time before going to real money. Its hard but sometimes you can find a table with players that play seriously (or actually know how to play). I honed my strategy there, deciding which starting hands I like and what not. After being frustrated by getting called by the worst hands and losing I went to real money tables. Also before "sitting" at a real money table, I scout the table for several hands, checking whos tight, loose, maniac. I don't want everyone at the table to be good, why make it harder to make money? Unless youre looking for a serious challenge. Also I always like to see a loose/maniac player with a big stack at the table to set my targets to.
personally I always want a bankroll of about 75-100, i've never run out of money on pp so far.
As for losing on online poker, I played with play chips for a loooooong time before going to real money. Its hard but sometimes you can find a table with players that play seriously (or actually know how to play). I honed my strategy there, deciding which starting hands I like and what not. After being frustrated by getting called by the worst hands and losing I went to real money tables. Also before "sitting" at a real money table, I scout the table for several hands, checking whos tight, loose, maniac. I don't want everyone at the table to be good, why make it harder to make money? Unless youre looking for a serious challenge. Also I always like to see a loose/maniac player with a big stack at the table to set my targets to.