NL10 aggression - 5 hands

My ABC NL10 game had two basic lines:
1. Bet premium holding, c-bet when flop misses.
2. Bet premium holding, v-bet when flop hits.

(Maybe that's only one basic line. Hmm...) For my move up to NL25, I thought my game ought to have a bit more to it. So I've been working on aggression in spots I wouldn't normally fire in bets or rr's. The hands below come from a single session but all different tables, some 6-max and some FR.

Hand 1
Villain is running 28/0/1.75 over 50 hands, so not much read. He bet the flop quick, and it just felt weak.

$0.05/$0.1 No Limit Holdem

Stacks:
UTG ($6.88)
Hero ($11.06)
CO ($5.27)
BTN ($3.04)
SB ($3.34)
BB ($5.42)

Pre-flop: ($0.15, 6 players) Hero is UTG 1 :6d: :6s:
UTG calls $0.1, Hero raises to $0.45, 4 folds, UTG calls $0.35

Flop: :7c: :8s: :9d: ($1.05, 2 players)
UTG bets $1.05,, Hero goes all-in $10.61, UTG folds

Final Pot: $12.71

Hero wins $12.56 ( won $1.5 )

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Playing against entire table, which seems weak-tight, and is about 33/7 over last 30 hands.

Hand 2
$0.05/$0.1 No Limit Holdem

Stacks:
UTG ($2.34)
UTG+1 ($8.28)
UTG+2 ($8.64)
MP1 ($7.41)
MP2 ($4.95)
MP3 ($8.31)
CO ($18.57)
Hero ($10.25)
SB ($8.64)
BB ($5.51)

Pre-flop: ($0.15, 10 players) Hero is BTN :5h: :2d:
1 fold, UTG+1 calls $0.1, UTG+2 calls $0.1, 1 fold, MP2 calls $0.1, 2 folds, Hero raises to $0.65

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hand 3

Did I play this like a pussy? Well, yeah, I did. But did I play it right? Villain is 42/5/2 over 90 hands.

$0.05/$0.1 No Limit Holdem

Stacks:
UTG ($3.01)
UTG 1 ($6.46)
CO ($9.33)
BTN ($34.92)
SB ($8.63)
Hero ($13.17)

Pre-flop: ($0.15, 6 players) Hero is BB :ac: :td:
4 folds, SB calls $0.05, Hero raises to $0.3, SB calls $0.2

Flop: :9s: :5c: :6h: ($0.6, 2 players)
SB checks, Hero bets $0.4, SB calls $0.4

Turn: :9h: ($1.4, 2 players)
SB checks, Hero checks

River: :4c: ($1.4, 2 players)
SB bets $1.4, Hero folds

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hand 4

Villain is 60/18/5.3 over 70 hands. This feels like a c-bet. Villain aggresses on flop 65% of times - very low number of hands for this read except fact he's WAY loose. So he's seen like 35 - 40 flops already.

$0.05/$0.1 No Limit Holdem

Stacks:
CO ($6.57)
Hero ($19.07)
SB ($8.28)
BB ($6.14)

Pre-flop: ($0.15, 4 players) Hero is BTN :qh: :qs:
1 fold, Hero raises to $0.35, 1 fold, BB calls $0.25

Flop: :9s: :2s: :9c: ($0.75, 2 players)
BB bets $0.45, Hero raises to $2.1

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hand 5

Worried I didn't maximize earn here. No read on villains.

$0.05/$0.1 No Limit Holdem

Stacks:
UTG ($6.61)
UTG 1 ($14.81)
CO ($31.43)
BTN ($7.42)
Hero ($12.58)
BB ($1.33)

Pre-flop: ($0.15, 6 players) Hero is SB :3h: :2h:
UTG calls $0.1, UTG 1 calls $0.1, CO calls $0.1, 1 fold, Hero calls $0.05, BB checks

Flop: :3c: :9s: :3d: ($0.5, 5 players)
Hero checks, BB checks, UTG bets $0.35, UTG 1 calls $0.35, 1 fold, Hero raises to $1.9, BB folds, UTG folds, UTG 1 folds

Final Pot: $3.1

Hero wins $3.03 ( won $1.03 )
BB lost -$0.10
UTG lost -$0.45
UTG 1 lost -$0.45
CO lost -$0.10

The cr gets $.70 in the pot but scares everyone off. FPS?

Thanks for reading through all this - now flame away!!

You're not analyzing the situation correctly really.

Take into account:
-board texture
-opponents possible holdings
-pot-size to stack-ratio kinda stuff (i.e. how can you get the money in)

Hand 1: Playing for stacks against short villian on that flop isn't too bad. HOWEVER, I wouldn't get too reliant on your "Feelings". Put villian on a range, then act... He limp/called from EP, that's usually a low PP just like yourself. Then he leads the flop with a PSB. Does a set or straight do that? Go from there, not your feelings...

Hand 2: I like it. I find this works better in the blinds though. What's your plan for the flop if someone calls?

Hand 3: Don't beat yourself up too much in a Blind battle. PF is OK, I'd rather just see a flop with this guy. Make a hand and then bet it... Flop bet should be pot sized if you want him to fold. DOUBLE BARREL THAT TURN, it's a scare card for HIM, not you, you're the aggressor. This is your mistake on this hand. If he calls that, and still leads the river, then you can fold without a second thought...

Hand 4: Yes. Villian has a 9 sometimes, but mostly not. Tough if he pushes behind you though...

Hand 5: PF is ok with all the limpers. LEAD the flop though. a check/raise is WAY too strong here. Check/Call is ok also, that flop isn't dangerous at all to you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChrisBCritter

Hand 1: Playing for stacks against short villian on that flop isn't too bad. HOWEVER, I wouldn't get too reliant on your "Feelings". Put villian on a range, then act... He limp/called from EP, that's usually a low PP just like yourself. Then he leads the flop with a PSB. Does a set or straight do that?

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77,88,99,78,89,79,T9, 67,56,JT, sometimes TT-JJ, A9, once in a blue moon QQ-AA. His leading range is much wider, than sets and sreaights.

I pm'd spenda to say I would analyze my own play first, with more substantive detail, then ask more experienced players to critique my analysis. Since I do have a day job, this is my first chance to post. I quickly glanced over previous posts so I wouldn't completely rehash what everyone said.

Hand 1 - I've got a pair of six's plus OESD, so I'm trying to put the guy on a range. He opens nearly 30% of his hands, but in 50 HH's we've not seen him come in for raise. So limps damn near everything. Without resorting to PokerStove, my estimate of his Top 30% is all pp's, most broadways and most Ax sooted along with some Ax (probably one's that connect with this flop). I'm expecting MAYBE something as weak K9s and sc's, but not much worse. (I often forget I'm playing total donks and narrow my range estimates too far, so I'm trying to cast a wide net.) Given his preflop limp/call, the most likely candidates are pp's (by far), then badly played Ax sooted and premium broadways like AQs, though limping AQs would be unusual for these stakes.

So...in terms of likely holdings, I'm guessing maybe 50% of the time I'm facing a pp, 5% of the time facing a made hand that I'm a real dog to, and 45% of the time facing bad Aces/Kings/Broadways. For the pp's, most of them have an advantage over me, but it's not terrible. I have 8 outs to the straight, but the J/T's are scary cards that make up a big part of the broadway/Aces/Kings that he might have played. The 45% (Ax, Kx, broadway, sc's?) generally don't connect much better with this flop than I do, except he could have out on the big end of the straight so that my outs up there might get me in a real jam if they hit.

I think the biggest thing I missed was that, if I'm behind to a set or overpair, I'm not that big dog. Any pp QQ+ doesn't connect with the flop and leaves me 10 outs live (these hands are unlikely given the preflop betting), as does 22, 33 and 44 (very likely). The sets of 7's, 8's and 9's leave me 8 outs, as long as the board doesn't pair on the river. The other pp's aren't too bad. And broadways are behind me at the moment, so a 2/3 pot bet on the flop should eliminate most of the draws.

Conclusion is that if I'm behind, I still probably have at least 1 in 5 odds to make a better hand by the river, and the guy would have strong enough hand to call me down. So I have implied odds to play the hand here, even if I'm behind. I should be less afraid call the flop and see the turn, planning to raise then if I still think I'm ahead or have implied odds.

I pretty much made a bet that can only be called by hands that beat me. So, rr the flop to $4 (so he has to call $3 to be in a $9) is probably a better line with the same positive outcomes as the shove. Same hands fold, same hands call. Saves money against JT. Problem here is that he's most definitely pot-committed after a $4 call, so this almost amounts to a shove. Another viable line is to call the flop, bet/rr the turn. This can work as well to, especially if a blank or helping card hits the board. If he shoves the turn, I probably have to fold anything but a straight, and might have to fold the made straight if it looks likely that I have the idiot end. Again, almost have to shove the turn because he's pot committed to most bets less than than his stack that don't leave him pot odds to draw.

Finally, let me say the poker "feeling" I referred to was a "tell." At least I think it was. Villain normally took 3 - 4 seconds to bet the flop. This flop bet was immediate. Now, I'm taking this with a grain of salt - his internet connection or mine might have lagged and then dumped two bets quickly together, or he might be playing multiple tables and just happened to get this bet quicker than normal. But my "feeling" was that the changed timing of his betting pattern meant something. I believe it was a bluff tell, but I'm only 30-40% certain of it. So I'm not really using that info in my analysis. I know we're not supposed to use "feelings" in poker, but this was real information - just information I didn't (and still don't) know how to use really well.

I'll get to the other four this evening.

one... i dont know that i like the push on the flop. i would call him, knowing he is cbetting and see when he shuts down, and note that...or RR smaller, if i felt like being more aggressive. but, the only hand that calls you has you whooped. after all, i have 8 outs to smoke him when he thinks i am bluffing the straight on him. this just isnt a hand i want to end right away...yet.

two...absolute crap against a table that is 33% to flop. you are getting called here a lot, and need a huge flop. cbetting may be ok, but when called it gets expensive and you have absolute crap. fold that pre, imo. you dont need to make this play at 100NL, much less 25NL.

three...yes!! bet that 9 and fold to a raise.

four...against a maniac, i likely stack off on this flop. if he has a 9, so be it. he will usually rep it with a draw or pp. and you beat most overpairs here.

five...no, not FPS. simply too strong for such a shitty flop. you value bet all three streets here and likely felt it to aggression. lead this one out. they wont likely believe you. ive been experimenting with appropriate times to minbet lately. there arent many spots where you should. but, this may be one. you have a fairly strong hand. minbets are great for triggering "reflex raises." and, you shouldnt fear a raise here. if they call, you can just go into value mode on the turn, and maybe fold to a raise if its a spade. but, keep in mind boat odds. of course, when this board double pairs, you have the ass end of it.

the thing to remember, imo, is that when you get an itch of FPS (like the minbet crap i suggested), dont overplay it when the board turns against you. if you minbet the 3 and get raised, great, thats what you wanted. but, if you only get called, and the turn brings the spade, you dont want to play for stacks anymore. you prolly lay a big psb and fold to a raise. and, think to yourself, "damned cards. i tried to get cute and screwed myself over. better not make a huge mistake now."

most grinders have a tendency to ignore when a board DRASTICALLY changes their relative hand strength. they continue on thinking they should play for a stack...and get stacked when they should have slowed way down.

Hand 2

I defend this decision. I've been seeing this a lot in FR NL10 - the "limp with anything" lemming line when a couple ppl limp EP. I feel two things are true here.

1. At NL10, almost no one slow plays a monster by limping behind the limpers.
2. At NL10, almost no one slow plays the Top 10% of hands by limping UTG or UTG + 1.

That means this is also true:

3. Raising any two here is positive EV.

The only hands that worry me are in the blinds, but I have position on them if they do call. Everyone else has advertised weakness. I think I can outplay anyone post flop who limp/calls from EP/MP, especially when broadway cards hit the board. I only am worried here about premium hands waking up in the blinds, something that will happen maybe 10% of the time. Against the blinds, I'm probably folding to most flop bets against most villains, and c-betting 2/3 pot on anything they check to me. Probably 75% of flops I see, I take down with a c-bet even when I catch air.

I lose some big pots, but those spots are rare and compensated by the 4 times out of 5 this play works. I'd like to hear what others think who (like Chopper and me) play NL10 almost exclusively.

I'm pretty sure I'm right, but I've only tried it a dozen times or so.

Hand 3
I still don't think I would have played this much differently. I feel like 75% villain's range is med/small pp's, sc's and Ax sooted. That range has me here - I can only beat a bluff. I don't have any untainted single card outs. So I'm pretty much unhappy regardless of what hit the turn.

I think maybe the wussy check-fold is best here.

I can see an argument for 3 barreling. I argue against 3 barreling here because this villain (with TAF = 2) doesn't fold enough postflop. I think I'm behind, and not likely to improve, so I'm done with the hand.

Hand 4

All right. I screwed up. I used the word "feel" again. Here's what I was "feeling." I see the flop bet from a guy who's running 60/18/5+ and think -whoa, he's loose. I have Aggression Frequency Flop on my HUD, so I glance at total hands and then AFF = 65%. This guy bets twice as many flops as he actually hits (at for a small sample of hands). I think, hmm...stats suggest he's loose and c-bets a good bit.

Taking all of that into account plus the fact that the paired nines make hitting this particular flop much less likely (and much more painful when it happens), I decide I'm about 3 to 2 to be facing a c-bet vs. v-bet.

That's what I meant by saying "it felt like a c-bet," just that my estimate of his range and playing style lead me to believe he's likely to be bluffing here.

So, if my "feeling" is right, 60% of the time my rr wins $1.2. The other 40%, I lose a big pot maybe half the time. I do have outs, and some of villains' pairs are less than my QQ. So I have leverage for later in the hand, if it comes to it. I think the rr is positive EV. If there's more value to be gained by playing this on further streets, I'm too much of a fraidy cat to try it.

I fired my last bet (the rr), after which I was done with the hand except in truly exceptional circumstances.

Your thoughts?

Hand 5

I had come to same conclusion as Chopper did here. I'm basically playing against and medium strength hand and a random one. I screwed up on my estimate of ranges when I played the hand. Since I don't often limp UTG, I had no good estimates for the types of hands I might be facing. Chances are med/weak pp's, maybe some sooted Broadway junk or sooted aces.

The thing about his likely range is that it's VERY unlikely the BB connected with this flop. And a random hand is more likely to turn up with TT+ than something that connects with this flop.

So, I was way ahead and let their donk bets confuse the issue for me.

Maximizing earn, if I had it to play over, I would call the flop bets. The BB is nearly pot-committed after the flop, so he's more likely to push the turn, which UTG probably calls. So, given the stack sizes here, my biggest earn to try to get the BB all-in with garbage, and do it in a way so that UTG can call.

If I can get BB all-in by the turn (about $4.25), I'm v-betting $1.50 on the river in almost all situations.

There's only a slight chance I lose this hand, even if two more cards come. So play it slower, and make v-bets instead of a big c/r.

1) How does a pot size bet look weak? Is there a bet pot button at your site? Seems like 77/88/99/TT/JJ/78/89/9T/TJ/56 would all bet out pretty big here and a shorty isnt folding any of them. You might not even manage to fold out A9 here.

We are also pretty far behind his calling range. Probably around 25%. Thats not great when you consider his folding range is a tiny fraction of what he leads with.


2) This is pretty bad. You are going to have very little equity when called and you are probably on a loose table. It might be barely +EV in a vacuum but it certainly wont be when people start to realise you are opening any 2 cards (and they will realise). Pure bluffing is rarely profitable at low stakes, and starting out in a dry pot at a loose table planning on bluffing a hand isn't the way to beat this level. Take a hand with some showdown value instead like a KT sort of hand.

3) Raise more preflop (40c or so). The rest is standard. More money comes from the PFR + cbet + making a hand than comes from taking down the blinds.

4) Fine, although i probably only make it about $1.50

5) I probably just bet out. I want to build a medium pot against single pairs because I dont think they will stack off in a huge pot. A huge pot is going to be me Vs someone with a better 3. A c/r blows off most worse hands unless he happens to have slowplayed AA horribly.

You are FPSing alot. Bet your good hands and fold your bad ones.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pelion

1) How does a pot size bet look weak? Is there a bet pot button at your site?

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Yes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pelion

You are FPSing alot. Bet your good hands and fold your bad ones.

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Thanks for advice. I agree about FPS, but I don't know good ways to add to my ABC "bet the good ones/fold the bad ones" play without trying to pounce from position when villains seem to have weak holdings. I'm experimenting here, and I appreciate you taking the time to give the ol' thumbs up/thumbs down on these HH's.

Good point about villain's learning curve on ATC raise from button against limpers. I see there is a flaw in my "raise the limpers w/ATC" theory, at least long term. But I still think the lesson here is to raise the limpers with a wider range than I have in the past.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robb

I agree about FPS, but I don't know good ways to add to my ABC "bet the good ones/fold the bad ones" play...

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i will say this 3 times.

DONT ADD TO ABC
DONT ADD TO ABC
DONT ADD TO ABC

it doesnt pay.

you are at megamicrostakes. dont try to do any more than read their hands. thats hard enough as wide as they are.

they are not thinking about yours very often.

i will change Pelion's strategy a bit....bet your GREAT hands, and keep the rest smallish UNTIL IT COMPLETES. thats how you beat these stakes.

no offense, robb, but raising 52o anywhere is really, really bad. wait for something that has a snowball's chance in hell to win a pot.

DONT STEAL WITH AIR...you WILL get called fairly often.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robb

I agree about FPS, but I don't know good ways to add to my ABC "bet the good ones/fold the bad ones" play...

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i will say this 3 times.

DONT ADD TO ABC
DONT ADD TO ABC
DONT ADD TO ABC

it doesnt pay.

you are at megamicrostakes. dont try to do any more than read their hands. thats hard enough as wide as they are.

---

Fair enough. I get what you're saying, Chop. Here's the deal: I'm experimenting. And 99% of the hands I play are strong hands from position - ABC poker. These were 5 "trouble" hands from a 750 hand session. The other 745 pretty much played themselves.

I know I can win down here, but my win rate is only 5 - 6 ptBB/100. I'd like to crush this game while building a 1k br for my shot at NL25. And I know this - my ABC game is not adequate for NL25 right now.

My ABC game has c-bets after opening premium hands and v-bets when I hit. I have no other plays. My ABC game rarely involves rr's without the nuts, 3-bets of any kind, etc. I know I may be making HUGE errors down here with hands like these five, but they're cheap errors, and I'm finding out where I can bet harder and what types of players I can push out of pots. And I'm finding out what doesn't work.

I'm not pretending I want to play 52 offsuit every time it comes up. I don't. But I'm seeing situations where I can use position instead of cards to squeeze opponents. Until a week ago, I have zero moves after a c-bet. I just had to let the pot go. Now, I'm trying to add in some other plays, work with bet sizing to get more info, v-bet thinner, etc. Also, if I can learn some ways to maneuver on later streets, I can bypass flop c-bets in some situations and still not be guaranteed to lose the hand.

i know, i just wanted to reiterate that you need to think more about your "plays." dont just open anything on the button and call it a "play."

add some of these things:

- c/r flops when you hit TP or air and expect a bet when you check.
- raise others cbets on flop
- when the board is dry and the A falls on the turn, rep it with ATC.
- rep flushes when floating the instant they hit
- bet your draws, too. sometimes bet them two streets, and check when they complete. let the other guy rep it when you have it.
- call small bets on the river lightly, and occasionally with A high to let the villains know you may call rivers with nothing. this lets you c/r rivers more often.
- raise to isolate with a lot of AXs/67s+/57s+ for a session when you notice you are playing some players you have a history with. not too much, but just a few times. and do it oop on rare occasion.

notice these "plays" are mostly one street plays. dont carry things too far down here. when it gets called, stop pushing w/o improving.

and, fold to aggression when you are lightly tapping on the glass. people will look to play back at you...a little. by folding, you are telling them to bet back at you and raise you off your bullshit bets. this pays off in stacks when you actually hit a hand.

remember, if you start to steal more on the flop, you need to bet your sets and you draws and your TPTK hands all the same way. your opponents will not know when you are full of it and when you have it until AFTER they try and resteal.

i love the 7 4 T 2-tone flops when i hit my 444. i raised it pre, they thought this was a great spot for me to cbet. they raise my lead, and WHAMMO i push back. they still think i'm full of shit and call me with draws, AT, etc. this also does not work when you cbet, but c/r your sets. you need to do the same thing with both. if you are cbetting, you need to be leading your sets on "cbet boards."

of course, NONE of this works for shit when you are running cold and the deck is running opposite to you. lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

add some of these things:

- c/r flops when you hit TP or air and expect a bet when you check.

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c/r air? OK...so I've got AK, the board comes 9-high rainbow. I c/r an agro player? Is that what you're talking about? Some value in the hole cards that might be real outs, but no connection with the flop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

- raise others cbets on flop

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Been trying this w/ TPTK instead of calling - how thin do you try it? Air?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

- when the board is dry and the A falls on the turn, rep it with ATC.

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Check - I do that, if i started w/ a typical starting hand in my 20/16 ABC style.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

- rep flushes when floating the instant they hit

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Check.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

- bet your draws, too. sometimes bet them two streets, and check when they complete. let the other guy rep it when you have it.

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Check - but I need to get better at this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

- call small bets on the river lightly, and occasionally with A high to let the villains know you may call rivers with nothing. this lets you c/r rivers more often.

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Yeah, I do this - probably too often and too light. The regs give me action on the turn and river, even some nitty ones.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

- raise to isolate with a lot of AXs/67s+/57s+ for a session when you notice you are playing some players you have a history with. not too much, but just a few times. and do it oop on rare occasion.

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Good one - I will try this. BTW, one of the things I noticed during my last shot at NL25 is that several of the regs from NL10 I got to know in October are up there now. Learning how to play the regs is, oddly enough, one of the key parts to moving up - those are the players for whom I will initially have the best reads.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

notice these "plays" are mostly one street plays. dont carry things too far down here. when it gets called, stop pushing w/o improving.

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I know - I use a lot of one street plays, but I feel like I need to add some 3-betting and 2-barreling to my game. Again, I'm trying it on the cheap at NL10, while I'm building br, and EXPERIMENTALLY - i've not turned into some degen gambler - i just feel i need more experience with other facets of the game.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chopper

of course, NONE of this works for shit when you are running cold and the deck is running opposite to you. lol.

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This made me LoL. Is that in your book?

c/r air?...yes. i will fire AK into dry, low boards as a cbet. i dont consider that "air," though. i have 6 outs most likely. however, if a "reg" is onto me doing this and starts floating/minraising, i will just lead out psb on flop....its cheaper. i may then start c/ring flops i HIT, and take him to valuetown the rest of the way. WAY too deep/fancy of thinking for a 10NL player. god, i need to move up soon.

raising likely cbettors?... i will look for chronic cbettors. those who fire flop bets relentlessly when they have pf initiative. and, i raise them on "cbettable" boards with a lot of shit. draws, gutters, overs, TP, etc. but, with my bigger hands, i may let him bleed off the turn, too, if he has shown me he can/will two barrel. (most aggros will two barrel)

repping the A?... just remember to balance out yourself when you HAVE that A, too. otherwise, you are exploitable to even the dumbest reg.

betting draws?... i dont do the two street betting much. dont get carried away with that one.

calling small rivers?... i also mean in small pots. miller says small pots arent worth fighting over, but they are also often bluffed. if you have a marginal hand, calling small rivers can buy you action later. its kind of cheap advertising. if the regs are giving you action on the turn and river, youre not being forceful enough, imo. stop wailing away at the turn and river, and only valuebet it for awhile. you will pick up a ton of profit instantaneously. when they stop giving you action, then start stabbing at it again.

adding 3betting and 2 barreling to your game is fine, in small amounts. you are still at 10NL. its not practice for 25NL, imo. there IS a decent difference in aggression between the two. if you want to experiment with these, move up to 25NL and try it there. doing it at 10NL just gets you called down.

no, its not "in my book," but it should be. lol. what i was referring to was...

sometimes the deck runs completely opposite to what you try and do. i have been on a 40-50k run like this. and its frustrating. i stab, they call or raise. i do it again, so do they. i start to call, they have it. i stop doing it, they start to bet my weakness. i play my draws, they dont come in. when they do, they fold the table. i cbet, they call, i two barrel, they raise...and i didnt hit my A/K to bail me out. i get pissed and run a sweet bluff, i get picked off. i try and pick off a bluff, the guy rivered me. blah blah blah

the thing is, when the deck lines back up, i go on a HUGE heater. i am running 45 ptbb/100 over the last 2500 hands right now. its just payback from the shit i've been suffering for 3-4 months. i have weird shit holding up right now. the players are afraid to bet, but arent afraid to call down. i am just barely better than they are in most showdowns. and, they are calling my monsters...because i am leading them, not slowplaying them. i am stealing every pot i stab at.

why? the deck is lined up...for now. and, i am MAXIMIZING as much of it as i can.

like any LAG will tell you. keep the pressure on...softly. only stack off with big stuff. raise and cbet. take orphan pots with scare cards. fold to most aggression w/o reads or something of strength. the rest is kind of in the cards. when they match up with you, you get paid...AS LONG AS YOU KEEP BETTING. when they dont, it can get expensive...keep things small and to one street, occasionally two, when you are missing.

dont introduce "moves" because you think it will make you better. you have to understand WHY you are making the move at the time you are making it. otherwise, you are just spewing.