Salsa4ever's Omaha Strategy POTD

Hopefully this will be a semi-regular feature where I'm going to make strategy posts or hand analyses of varying lengths on varying Omaha topics depending on my mood. Here's today's installment - a hand that I discussed with a friend:



Pot Limit Omaha Hi-Lo Ring game
Blinds: $2/$4
10 players
Converter

Stack sizes:
UTG: $905.84
UTG+1: $337.10
UTG+2: $412.04
MP1: $353.55
MP2: $438.40
MP3: $648.80
CO: $295
Button: $303.30
HERO: $396
BB: $93.50

Pre-flop: (10 players) HERO is SB with 7 T Q 9
UTG calls, UTG+1 calls, 2 folds, MP2 calls, 3 folds, HERO calls, BB checks.

Me:
A semi-strong hand if it was PLO (high). But looking at 10:1 odds on completeing the small blind, so even though I dislike these kinds of hands I feel compelled to call.

Friend:
Yeah, I'm with you


Flop: 7 8 J ($20, 5 players)
HERO bets $19, BB calls, UTG folds, UTG+1 calls, MP2 folds.

Me:
My high is quite good, with the nut straight, no cards that makes a straight to beat me, a Q-high spade redraw, and a 4 more cards that improve me ot a higher straight. Problem with my hand is I have no low on a board that’s going to make a low most of the time.

Friend:
Betting is fine. But we’re in a defensive position, and we’re betting in case nobody has anything. If you checked, and there’s a pot size bet and a pot size raise, you would Instantaneously fold. The chances of getting the whole pot is so remote that it’s not worth calling. Except for the 1000-1 shot of running sevens, there’s nothing that gives you a nut high and not put a low on the board.


Turn: Q ($77, 3 players)
HERO bets $74, BB calls all-in $66.5, UTG+1 calls.

Me & Friend:
Now I have a small full house redraw. And there's only two players left. There’s a good chance of an opponent drawing dead for high, or only seven out high draw, or chasing a low. That was one of the best cards in the deck actually, along with an off-suit 9 or T - 4 more redraw outs, no low, no flush, and still preserving the T9 straight as the nuts. Or more than a 3 to 1 underdog with a set. Pot it!


River: A ($291.5, 2 players + 1 all-in - Main pot: $276.5, Sidepot 1: $15)
HERO bets $292.5, UTG+1 folds.
Uncalled bets: $292.5 returned to HERO.

Me:
The second nuts high and no low. But the side pot is only $15! I think perhaps my bet is too much… but I’ve represented a straight all hand, so maybe he’d call with a 9TQK no spade, or a smaller flush draw? There’s always a chance BB has A2 only, and UTG+1 has a crappy counterfeited low. I'm not sure what to do here.

Friend:
There’s a world of difference between having a King that hit and the Ace. One is a draw that people would likely call 74 on the turn. One is a draw that people won’t call so much with. The ace is significant also because it presents a low. The possibility of knocking out UTG+1 if he has a crappy counterfeited low and getting half the pot is tremendous equity.

Very astute opponents would realize you’re playing at a dry pot. But no reason to give them that much credit. This bet has a good chance of driving out non-nut low (though not the main thrust of the reasoning). But the main reason to bet is you’ll get paid off sufficiently frequently

Another play based where image counts. Do you have the image that can get the call from an inferior hand?

If you check, and the other guy bets it doesn’t mean they have the King High flush, and you’d probably have to make the crying call anyway. Bullshit straight, low flush, or nut low. Therefore, in first position, you might as well put it in now.

I stick it all in based on these factors:
Possibility of driving out poor low
The presence of the all-in
The Ace hitting, not the king
First to act
You have to call if they bet anyway
Maybe they think that you have the nut low, and might all with the straight

Interesting hand
Preflop: I think you have to complete given the pot odds
Flop: This is a great example of why this hand is so difficult to play, I think your options on the flop is either to bet it pot size like you did, or check it, hope for a bet and then reraise it, to take it down right there or remain heads up.
I would probably check the flop.

I would pot the river

Thanks TLR for the response. On the flop I was hoping someone else had the same straight and would raise, and then I could get it all in and freeroll him. But checking is certainly not a bad choice.

Tomorrow I might write about game selection at the different sites I've played on. Remember, you're all free to reply to my posts and to suggest topics for me to pontificate upon, and I may or may not comply.

Originally Posted by salsa4ever

Thanks TLR for the response. On the flop I was hoping someone else had the same straight and would raise, and then I could get it all in and freeroll him.

If I bet this flop I hope to get the pot on the flop.
9 and T are the least playable cards in this game, there is a small chance someone other then the BB has them without a good low draw as well, which means you are not really freerolling

As I was squeezing out this post I was waiting for that 2/3/4/5 of spades to hit the river. What is your plan if one of those hits? I think check-fold. Calling that pot bet on the turn means he has some kind of good draw, whether it's nut flush+low or set+low.

A non-nut low with a set probably wouldn't throw in a big bet on the river, especially in a pot where there's already someone all in (and a tiny sidepot).

Originally Posted by Friend

If you checked, and there’s a pot size bet and a pot size raise, you would Instantaneously fold.

this blew my mind...would it change if we had QTJJ or QTAxs?

Originally Posted by |~|ypermegachi

Originally Posted by Friend

If you checked, and there’s a pot size bet and a pot size raise, you would Instantaneously fold.

this blew my mind...would it change if we had QTJJ or QTAxs?

Omaha is an odd game sometimes...

I ran two scenarios on the twodimes hand calculator, on that board we're almost exactly 50/50 against J8xx and a 40-60 dog against 88xx where xx = two cards under 7.

If it gets pot+repot, we are very likely being freerolled. Either to win half or 1/4 the pot. Even with the nut spade redraw, having no low draw kills our hand so badly.

I might talk a little bit about image today. It's often been said that Omaha is a game of reads. That's true. The corollary of this is that Omaha is also a game of image. If reads are so influential, then we certainly want our opponent to read us badly.

So how do we form an image to enhance our profits? Well, PLO and PLO8 both lend themselves to fairly conservative play. The nature of the game lends itself to conservative play with selective aggression. So you want your opponents to form an image that you're a bit of a gambler, a fish, a bluffing station, or otherwise stupid. How do we go about doing this? We do this by realizing that every play we make has an $EV, but it also has an $IV - this representing Image Value. If you fold 30 hands in a row, this will hurt your IV, but of course if all you're getting is 248Q all offsuit, then the -EV associated with playing the hand will outweigh any IV from not being seen to be a rock. So with this in mind...

I advocate raising every hand you play. I've experimented with a standard raise of 2BB (minimum), 2.5BB and 3BB and I've settled on about 2.5BB ($10 in my game) in PLO and 3BB ($12) in PLO8. Whether or not there are limpers. I may deviate from this if the circumstances warrant, but this is my standard. The good thing about raising almost all the hands you play is that it annoys people. Fish like to see lots of flops. They get annoyed when you raise their trash, and more annoyed when their hands inevitably miss. They will see you as a bit of a bully or just hate you, because *they* don't raise preflop unless they have AA.

Steal some pots. If you've got it 2 or 3 handed, and you have a flop with reasonable texture fire a bet 60-75% of the pot and see what happens. If they call you might get a free card and snatch the pot. If they raise you off your hand, which will happen some times, then you still get $IV. People on the table will remember that you often bet at the flop with garbage, especially when you raise pre flop. But they won't know it's not that often you do it, and when you do catch a hand, they commit suicide.

Don't fold to minimum bets. Either raise them if you have any decent hand or draw or call it if you don't. You'd be surprised how often you get get all or half a pot by calling some minimum bets. Not long ago I hit a 2 outer and took a large chunk of change. But again, there's value in not allowing your opponent to take the pot with a minimum bet. Make them know that if they want to move you off a hand, they're going to have to make some reasonably sized bet. This way, you get action from your opponents trying to bluff, not just an extra BB.

Make plays that are at worst close to 0EV but possibly +EV that your opponents won't be able to understand. Re-raise with AA+flush draw against what looks like a 2 pair or set. Against 2 pair which is much more likely then you are actually in front and against the set you're drawing very live and all in all, you can't be making a big mistake when there's a bit of a pot to start with. But your opponents often don't know this, they just think you're a fish. Raise your A23 on a 45 board in PLO8, raise your big draws, raise hands that have something going both ways like 1 pair with decent flush or straight draw. Omaha is a funny game, and the pot equities are sometimes quite counterintuitive. You can boost your $IV without much loss in -$EV by making plays that appear stupid to all but the very best, but actually are good plays, if a little bit on the aggressive side.

Deep stacked an facing a small raise you can reraise with holdings other than AAxx. You can buy a lot of pots on the flop, and when your hand actually connects (like in PLO8 a 258 flop and my opponent goes all in with their A24J thinking they could have my "AAxx" drawing quite dead only to have me turn over an A235) you can stack them. But when the hand gets shown down (either you hit something and got paid off or you get caught and check it down) and they're like "SHIT he reraised with 789T"? If you read wrong and they have AA and they come over the top with a raise you can't call (though often you can, if their first raise is small enough and the stacks are deep) then cest la vie.

There are also non-strategic ways to work an image. You can use table chat to your advantage, although this is cumbersome and I don't like to engage in this unless I'm single tabling and feeling a bit bored. Or you can just choose a confrontational name. "fluffuAGAIN", or "RiverYoMoTHA" or "SORRYULOSE"... u get the drift. But one thing I don't like to do is show my cards. If you're playing aggressively as you should, you often don't have to show your cards, and you should strive to keep it that way. Often, not knowing whether you got played or not can be worse than actually being shown a bluff.


That's all for now. Until next time, happy hunting!

Very good post

However I think a disclaimer should be added that this is only applicable to mid stakes and up

Low level Omaha & Omaha 8 players simply do not notice this stuff often enough.
The may notice if you reraise with 9983 but erraising with A35T seems logical to them and foldign 30 hands will go by unnoticed

Players at this site roll over. I'm win 15-20 pots in a row sometimes because they just call pre/fold flop flop. This explains my <PSB on flop.

This hand is only slightly interesting on the turn.

Absolute Poker
Pot Limit Omaha Ring game
Blinds: $0.05/$0.10
6 players
Converter

Stack sizes:
UTG: $4.90
Hero: $14.85
CO: $10
Button: $7.20
SB: $4.10
BB: $4

Pre-flop: (6 players) Hero is UTG+1 with T 7 9 8
UTG folds, Hero raises to $0.4, CO folds, Button calls, SB calls, BB calls.

Flop: 3 2 T ($1.6, 4 players)
SB checks, BB checks, Hero bets $1, Button calls, 2 folds.

Turn: 6 ($3.6, 2 players)
Hero bets $3, Button raises all-in $5.8, Hero calls.

One of the blinds said "what?" or something to that effect, so you do get a little bit of image consideration even at microstakes.

Swiggs, what hand(s) are you putting him on on the turn to make that bet?

Originally Posted by bigspenda73

Swiggs, what hand(s) are you putting him on on the turn to make that bet?

I'm not.

I like how you think spenda, and I will definitely need your help in the near future when i start to move up. However, this is 10PLO. If the villain had any capability of determining the strength of his hand I would have said so.

I expect a fold >50% of the time, after he pushes I'm getting 4:1.

It's just that the only hands I see c/c the flop are not c/f the turn unless you think he has JJxx-AAxx or is capable of folding small 2 pairs hands to 2barrells.

Also, I'm not a big proponent of betting a lot to price myself in. Except that it looks stronger which obviously adds to FE when you're drawing.

Here's a post I made in response to a set of "guidelines" that were given for basic 08 play in another forum. Specifically, I'm talking about PLO8

(My comments are quoted in UPPER CASE)


********************

Don't chase for the naked nut low.

YES. NAKED NUT LOW DRAW IS A BETTABLE BUT NOT A CALLABLE HAND IN MOST CIRCUMSTANCES.

Don't call with just the nut low unless there are four+ players to the turn, you are otherwise only calling to get your money back at best.

NO. THIS IS REALLY BAD. MADE NUT LOW EVEN WITH NO SUPPORTING HIGH STRENGTH IS ONE OF THE MOST PROFITABLE HOLDINGS IN PLO8.

IN GENERAL, YOU SHOULD FOLD NAKED NUT LOW DRAW BY DEFAULT, AND BET/RAISE/CALL MADE NUT LOW BY DEFAULT. BUT KNOW THAT THERE'S A LOT OF TIMES WHERE YOU'LL DEVIATE FROM THE 'DEFAULT'.

Don't play any old A2 or A3, have some standards such as make sure your A3 is suited on the ace, or that you try to minimise the amount of middle cards you play (eg A2T7 or A3s69).

YES. BUT THERE'S A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 6, 7, 8 AND 9/T. BOTH OF THE HANDS YOU GAVE ARE PLAYABLE IN MOST CIRCUMSTANCES AND RAISABLE IF FIRST TO RAISE. I WOULD CALL A SMALL RAISE WITH THE SECOND BUT NOT THE FIRST.

Play high hands only in late position for a limp, your opponents won't notice this, they are not terribly astute or observant.

NOT REALLY. DEPENDS ON THE QUALITY OF THE HIGH HAND. GENERALLY PAIRED HIGH HANDS PLAY A LOT STRONGER IN PLO8 THAN THE WRAP HIGH HANDS. SO STUFF LIKE K5sKQ AND KQQJ IS PLAYABLE FROM ALL POSITIONS IN ANY BUT THE TOUGHEST GAMES, BUT TQKA UNSUITED IS PRETTY DAMN WEAK.

Always raise coming in except with high hands. This will make you seem more aggressive/bluffy, thus increasing chances of getting paid off. If someone raises before you, call when not on the button or cutoff, otherwise reraise (especially with other players having called the raise, you will make a big pot). Call if they reraise, they probably have AA and you can easily bust them with your free read if you hit.

YES. I DON'T KNOW WHY HIGH HANDS ARE EXEMPT THOUGH. WHY NOT RAISE THEM TOO IF YOU HAVE A QUALITY ONE?

Its okay to fold AA before the flop if you dont have a two or three with it (preferably you want a two), and prefer to play with two accompanying cards that relate (eg not a T and 2, but rather a 3 and a 5 or 2 and a 4). Its probably not worth playing if it doesnt stand much chance multiway. If it does, raise.

NO NO NO. THAT'S MUCH TOO TIGHT. AA49 IS PLAYABLE FOR A RAISE IN ANY POSITION. AA5Ts THE SAME.

Don't bet the flop with many players in the hand just because you bet before the flop (unless you hit something GOOD, not OK or mediocre).

MAYBE. I CAN LIVE WITH IT BECAUSE YOU QUALIFY YOUR STATEMENT WITH "MANY PLAYERS IN THE HAND"

Always bet a low draw + wheel straight draw on the flop unless flush is possible or flop contains two of same suit, or full house is possible, or if a straight is already out. Be especially aggressive when you hold a six for the six high straight super duper scooper.

THE IDEA IS OK.

BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WHEEL STRAIGHT DRAW AND WHEEL STRAIGHT ****WRAP*** DRAW. ONE IS A MEDIOCRE HOLDING, THE OTHER IS A MONSTER.

I'M ASSUMING YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT THE LATTER (I.E. YOU HAVE A24 AND FLOP IS 35J).

BET & RAISE A NLD + WHEEL STRAIGHT WRAP DRAW ON RAINBOW BOARD UNPAIRED. BET BUT DON'T RAISE A NLD+WSWD IF FLUSH DRAW IS PRESENT. BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL WITH A24 ON THE 355 BOARD. SOMETHING LIKE A258 HAS YOU DRAWING VERY THIN.

Get away from your hand if you get counterfeited on the flop. Always. If you hold A23x, continue, and try to thin the field so that your pair (or better) improves chances to scoop. Get away from it if A23x is counterfeited again unless the x is a four or five. Remember still to have a draw to the nuts or to have a decent high hand already.

YES. FOR A BEGINNING PLAYER I CAN'T DISAGREE TOO MUCH WITH THIS LINE OF THINKING. BUT IF COUNTERFEITING OCCURS ON THE RIVER IN A HAND WHERE THERE'S BEEN A LOT OF BETTING GOING ON, YOU HAVE TO USE YOUR JUDGMENT.

Try not to complete in the small blind with junk such as middle cards, high cards and middle cards, or high cards and weak low cards.

YES.

Get away from weak hands you flop when you take a free flop in the big blind. Do not draw unless it WILL scoop with the NUTS. Don't draw to a high hand when you have no low hand and a low is already possible.

YES.

Don't draw to a hand that needs cards to complete it that will make a low possible.

YES IF THE ONLY CARDS THAT COMPLETE THE HAND WILL PUT A LOW ON THE BOARD. AS LONG AS YOU DON'T PLAY STUFF LIKE 4567 AND 689J YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE A LOT OF PROBLEMS HERE.

Don't make oversized before the flop raises, and keep reraises small. Try to invest no more than ten big blinds before the flop.

YES, GENERALLY. RERAISES CAN BE BIG IF WARRANTED BY THE STRENGTH OF YOUR HAND AND YOU THINK YOUR OPPONENT WILL CALL THE BIG RERAISE ANYWAY.

Adapt your game according to the table. If they are really aggressive, call more. If they are passive, raise more.

COMPLETELY WRONG. IF THEY ARE AGGRESSIVE, RAISE MORE. IF THEY ARE PASSIVE, BET MORE, BUT FOLD MORE AND RAISE LESS WHEN THEY BET.

Don't draw to non nut flushes. Don't draw with just an open ended straight draw, have at least a wrap with 13 outs. Don't draw to a straight on a two-flush board. Dont draw to a straight or flush on a paired board. Don't draw to an underfull. Draw to a full house when you can play all other three cards to fill up.

YES, IF YOU ADD THE PROVISO "AND NO OR VERY WEAK LOW POTENTIAL" TO THE END OF EVERY SENTENCE.

Don't call on the river with trips, especially without an ace kicker. You will be beaten most of the time or split with a low.

HOW DID WE GET TO THE RIVER WITH TRIPS AND NO LOW AND NO ACE KICKER ON A BOARD WITH 3 LOWS?

IF YOU'RE PLAYING CORRECTLY ON PREVIOUS STREETS, MOST OF THE TIME IF YOU GET TO THIS SITUATION, YOU CAN STILL CALL.

Don't pay too much to fill up. When someone bets the pot on the turn, just fold. Doesn't apply at any point when you have the nut low with it or draw to it (should be folded to a large turn bet though), in which case you'd be betting anyway. In fact, if you have trips and no low draw then you aint gonna scoop... so probably fold it![/list]

WHEN YOU SAY TRIPS DO YOU MEAN "TRIPS" OR "SET"? YOU REALLY NEED TO GET THIS DISTINCTION ENGRAINED IN YOUR HEAD IT'S VERY VERY FUNDAMENTAL.

********************

Here's my responses to other questions that followed:

I'm just starting to play O8 and am not an expert, but thought no hand have that big of the edge over the other before the flop in Omaha (high or 8 or better)?

Also, when raising high hands I find that most of the time the flop wont give you a straight or a full house, it will come three low cards and then you're screwed! Also most players will not give you much action (when you do hit) because they were mostly hoping for a low flop. At best you will get a few calls from players who thought you raised it up with A2xx and they hit a pair and think they're ahead, and then they'll fold the turn. So why raise?

Thanks for the answers.

1. Ah, the killer half truth of Omaha. Yes, you're right, no hand has that big of an edge over another (to the extent that AA is favorite to about 80% over pretty much anything) BY SHOWDOWN.

Problem (or fortunately, the way I look at it), that PLO8 is a game of implied odds where the later streets are more important than the earlier streets. Therefore, if you're holding one of the premium hands, you'll actually win more than your 60% that you would if you just went all in pre flop, due to the bettability of your hand, and the bluffing and semi bluffing opportunities. Also, when you win, you'll usually make a lot of money, but if your A234 sees a QJJ flop, then all you lose is your before the flop raise.

2. BALANCE!!!

If I see you raise, I almost *know* you don't have TJQK and I'll just bet the shit out of you on any high flop. That's going to get you killed, especially because you're also following a super-tight post flop strategy.

So the only way you'll be able to get some free cards or get people to fold to you is by raising a high hand sometimes and showing it down.

HERE'S ONE FOR THE OMAHA HIGH PLAYERS

There are no right or wrong answers in poker. But here's some things to think about when you have a drawing hand in PLO

1. A good time to call is in a multiway pot where you have the draw to the nuts. NFD facing a flop bet of about 6-10 BBs and there's another 2 callers between you and the bettor. Perfect time to flat call. You don't want to raise and eliminate worse draws.

2. In fact, flat calling the flop with an 8 or 9 out draw is never that bad.

3. You need to make a read. If you're playing against someone who can make folds you bet and raise your draws. If you're playing against someone who just won't fold, call and you'll get implied odds.

4. A good spot to call is if you have a nice draw, lets say a 13 out straight draw and the pot on the turn is $100, and you both have $150 behind. When villain pots it for $100 to you, there's no point raising. Because you know he can't get away from the last $50 if you hit your straight, but you can lay down your no-pair if he bets the last $50 on a safe river.

5. Generally, OOP dictates betting and last to act dictates calling. If you go check-call check-call bet when the scare hits on the river, you're not getting paid off. But it's significantly more difficult for your opponent to fold if he's checked to you and you make a half pot bet. If he consistently folds, then you're going to make a lot of value off him every time you half pot a scare card that doesn't make your hand. Whereas if you've been betting with a NFD and your opponent is chasing with a Q or K high or a straight draw and you hit the river and pot it again, you'll get paid.

6. If there's any non-negligible chance you're winning right now, you have to be betting and raising. AA+NFD is one of these spots.

7. If you need to eliminate opponents, bet and raise - e.g. 789T with a 9-high flush draw on a A96 board is an ideal time for this. Because the ace is out there, the most likely draw that actually beats you is not available. So stuff like Q/J/T-high flush draws are more likely to fold to your show of strength and you clear your outs. But if it's heads up you can call a PSB because your opponent won't be sure what draw you've got and will have to pay you off a bit.

8. The more possible draws there are, the more implied odds. That's just what Sklansky says in NLHP and it applies to Omaha too.

9. When in doubt, play your draws aggressively. I don't know if it applies at your stakes, but if you want to play your made hands fast (as you almost always do), then you need to balance.

10. Heads up against a competent opponent if you don't think raising is a viable option in the circumstances with a NFD and nothing else, and you're facing a large potsize bet with no other draws on the board, you'll want to fold.

EXAMPLE:

Sorry for the unconverted hand history.

Here's a hand that kinda illustrates what I'm talking about. What are the factors that influence whether I call and try to hit, or play it fast?

I'm OOP = play it fast
Possibility of having the best hand = play fast
Need to eliminate opponents with 2 low spades = play fast
Possibility of calling and encouraging multiway action = play slow, but this applies less to straights, because there's less scope for them to make a second best hand. Argument would apply better with a NFD.

The factors favour playing fast. When it gets checked around and the guy on the button bets, I'm suddenly feeling even better about my hand. So I take the lead here

(note: on reflection I think I should have made a raise to about $10 pre flop). But in a vacuum, the hand does illustrate some of the points I've been making.

***** Hand History for Game 5961334153 *****
$400 USD PL Omaha - Saturday, May 12, 08:36:44 ET 2007
Table Table 125432 (No DP) (Real Money)
Seat 5 is the button
Total number of players : 9
Seat 2: Any_97 ( $276.48 USD )
Seat 3: redbull344 ( $419.20 USD )
Seat 4: xhouseofpain ( $64 USD )
Seat 5: skint_101 ( $326.90 USD )
Seat 7: Zerberus666 ( $354 USD )
Seat 9: SMEGVIP ( $456.20 USD )
Seat 10: braquemator ( $218 USD )
Seat 6: HERO ( $732.60 USD )
Seat 1: Hailbopp ( $196 USD )
HERO posts small blind [$2 USD].
Zerberus666 posts big blind [$4 USD].
** Dealing down cards **
Dealt to HERO [ Qc Qh Kc Jd ]
SMEGVIP calls [$4 USD]
braquemator calls [$4 USD]
Hailbopp calls [$4 USD]
Any_97 folds
redbull344 folds
xhouseofpain folds
skint_101 calls [$4 USD]
HERO calls [$2 USD]
Zerberus666 checks
** Dealing Flop ** [ 9s, 3s, Td ]
HERO bets [$10]
Zerberus666 checks
SMEGVIP checks
braquemator checks
Hailbopp raises [$25 USD]
>You have options at Table 125381 (No DP) Table!.
skint_101 folds
HERO raises [$90 USD]
Zerberus666 folds
>You have options at Table 128153 (No DP) Table!.
SMEGVIP folds
braquemator folds
Hailbopp calls [$65 USD]
** Dealing Turn ** [ 4c ]
HERO bets [$135 USD]
Hailbopp folds
HERO does not show cards.

Hopefully this got you thinking about how you play your draws. Discussion, criticism, comments, improvements welcome.

Hey salsa, great stuff here. Could u go over, or point me to an article that explains board texture please??
As u know im relatively new to omaha 8, so i could use all the help i can get.. and thanks for telling me about this site, there is a lot of good info here that will help me out.