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| Vice |
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I have been thinking to come up with a basic rules of which hands to play and how to play them in the certain stages, positions, and stack sizes. I found this strategy on the internet and it looks kind of solid to me. What do you think about it? Levels 1-2 (800 chips, 10/15 and 15/30 blinds): Early position (UTG, UTG+1, UTG+2): -Open push AA-QQ -Limp JJ-TT and AK. Call a raise of up to 50 chips (in level 1) or 100 chips (in level 2) either in front or behind you. If you flop a set, an overpair, or, in the case of AK, top pair, and there was a raise behind you, checkraise all in on the flop. If the flop is monotone, it was checked through, or there has not been a raise, push at your first opportunity. Otherwise, check/fold to any action. -Limp 99-22 and AQ, but do not call a raise either in front or behind you unless it is a minimum raise. If you flop a set, an overpair or top pair, checkraise all in on the flop, unless it is monotone (in that case, open push). If the flop is checked through, push the turn. Otherwise, check/fold to any action. -Fold all other hands. Middle position (MP1, MP2, MP3): -Open push AA-JJ and AKs regardless of limpers or raisers in front -Limp TT-99 and AKo and call a raise of up to 50/100 chips either in front or behind you. If you flop a set, an overpair or TPTK, push the flop; else, check/fold -Limp 88-22 and AQ/AJs, regardless of the number of limpers, but do not call a raise unless it is a minimum raise. If you flop a set or top pair, push on the flop (if it is checked through and you hit either on the turn, push the turn, etc.). Otherwise, check/fold to any action. -Fold all other hands. Late position (CO, button) -Open push AA-JJ and AKs/AKo regardless of limpers or raisers in front -Push TT-99 and AQ if there are 2+ limpers and no one has yet raised; if there has been a raise, refer to the instructions on early/middle position -Limp 88-22 and AJ if there has been no raise regardless of the number of limpers; if there has been a raise for 50/100 chips or less, call 88-22 but fold AJ. If you flop a set, 10 out draw (such as 88 on a 976 board), or top pair (with AJ), push the flop. If you have 88-77, flop an overpair, and it is checked to you, also push the flop. Otherwise, check/fold to any action. -Fold all other hands. SB: -In level 1, complete with any two cards if there has been no raise. If there has been a raise, it is level 2, or you have a hand that is mentioned above, follow the instructions for early position. -If you flop TPTK, 2 pair or better, checkraise all in unless the flop is monotone (in that case, open push). If the flop is checked through, push the turn. -If you flop a nut straight draw (such as JT on a 98x flop) or any flush draw, check/call a bet up to ¾ the pot without regard to pot size, but do not call if there has been a bet and a raise. If you then face a bet on the turn for which you have the odds to continue, call that as well. If you make your draw at any point, checkraise all in. Otherwise, fold. -Fold all other hands on the flop. BB: Follow the SB instructions if there has been no raise. If there has been a raise, refer to the instructions for early position. Level 3 (25/50 blinds) EP: -Open push AA-JJ and AK regardless of the action -Fold all other hands MP: -Open push AA-JJ and AK regardless of the action in front so far -If no one has entered, or someone has merely limped, push TT-99 and AQ -Fold all other hands LP: -Push AA-JJ and AK regardless of the action so far -Push TT-88 and AQ-AJ if there has been no raise, regardless of limpers -If you are on the button and there are 1-3 limpers, also push 77-66 and AT -Fold all other hands SB: -Follow the instructions for early position BB: -If you have a hand mentioned in any of the ?level 3? instructions and there has been no raise, push it regardless of the number of limpers -If you do not, check and proceed according to the instructions for SB levels 1-2 (exception: if you flop a draw you estimate at 8 outs or better, checkraise all in on any flop; if it is checked through and you do not make the draw, check/fold to any further action) Levels 4-6: (50/100, 75/150, 100/200) EP: -Open push AA-TT, AK-AQ regardless of the action -If you are under 6 BB, push any pair, any ace and any two Broadway -Fold all other hands MP: -Open push AA-TT, AK-AQ regardless of the action -Push 99-77, AJ-AT, KQ-KJs if there has been no raise -If you have under 6 BB, and it has been folded to you, push any pair, any ace, K5+/Kxs, Q7/Q5s, J9/J8s, T9s -Fold all other hands LP: -Open push AA-TT, AK-AQ regardless of the action -Push 99-55, AJ-A7, KQ-KT, QJ if there has been no raise -If you have under 6 BB, and it has been folded to you, push any pair, any ace, any king, Q5/Qxs, J7/J5s, T8/T7s, 98/97s -Fold all other hands SB: -If there has been an EP raise, push AA-TT, AK-AQ -If there has been an MP or LP raise, push 99-88, AJ-AT and KQs -If there has been no raise, you have under 6 BB, and there are 1-3 limpers, push with any pair, any ace, and any two Broadway; if you have over 6 BB, push AA-55, AJ-A8, KQ-KJ and QJs -If it has been folded to you and you are under 6 BB, push any two cards; if over 6 BB, push any pair, any ace and any two Broadway -Fold all other hands BB: -If there has been no raise, and you flop a 12 out draw (such as an overcard + flush draw) or better (top pair+), checkraise all in on any flop, or push the turn if the flop is checked through -If there has been an EP raise, reraise all in with AA-TT, AK-AQ -If there has been an MP or LP raise, reraise all in with AA-88, AK-AJ -If anyone open raises and you are getting more than 2:1 to call an all in, call with any two cards -If the button or SB open raises and you are getting under 2:1, call with any ace, any pair and any two Broadway down to QT (if they make a standard raise rather than pushing, you should reraise all in with all of these, instead) -Check/fold all other hands. If there are still > 4 people left after 100/200, play using these instructions until you reach the bubble. Bubble and ITM play: I have made a small point system, similar to Sklansky?s System, governing bubble play. It is by no means perfect and ignores big stack play entirely, but should be good enough to achieve a decent ROI at this limit. Feel free to critique the hell out of it ? if the rest is a beta, this is pre-alpha. The details are as follows: -You start off with a point value for each position (5 for UTG, 3 for the button, 2 for the SB and 0 for the BB.) -Add 1 point for each BB that you have (round down), up to the maximum that your opponents you are pushing into have (if you have 7 BB and they have 5, only count 5) -Add 2 points if there is a bigger stack behind you -Add 4 points if someone has already raised or went all in -Add 6 points if you are pushing into a bigger stack *and* there is a short stack (3 BB or less) in the game, or if someone has already raised/went all in and been called. -Subtract 4 points if you are the biggest remaining stack [unless you are heads up] -Subtract 6 points if you are 3 handed (in the money) -Subtract 12 points if you are heads up Find your total amount of points on this chart. If your hand is worth that many points or more, push. Otherwise, fold. --- Over 18 points: Push AA-QQ, fold any other hand 16: Add JJ-TT, AK 14: 99-88, AQ 12: 77, AJ-AT, KQ 10: 66, A9-A8, Axs, KJ/KTs, QJs 8: 55-44, any ace, KT/K9s, QT/Q9s, JTs 6: 33-22, K8/Kxs, Q7/Qxs, J7/J8s, T8/T9s 4: Any king or queen not listed, J5/Jxs, T6/Txs, 96/94s, 86/84s, 76/75s, 65s 2: Any Broadway not listed, any two suited cards 0: Any other hand Special: If you are the BB and are getting over 2:1 to call an all in, call with any two cards. |
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| fjuanl |
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| I didnt read all that, but setting your play to certain guidelines is going to stunt your growth as a player. I can understand setting preflop ranges if your a beginning player. You should never set rules for every part of the game because there are no 'correct' answers. The best way to get better is to play more and review your hands, post them on forums, etc | ||
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| taipan168 |
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| drmcboy |
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| gl with your bot | ||
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| Ragnar4 |
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If you're programming those stats into a bot, I guarantee you, you'll win all the monies. If you're looking to become a better player? A) Learn to calclulate M, B) Understand what M Means. C) Learn at what blinds aggression becomes more important than cards. D) Learn solid Bubble play. This list of hands does NONE of these things. |
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The older I get, the more I start wondering; Just what in the hell is going on here?
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| Vice |
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| Wow no, I am not trying to put this stuff in a bot. I wanted to write down a basic strategy for me to follow as the sng progresses so I do not end upthinking 1 minute if I should raise with JJ in MP in early stage if no one has raise in front of me. I am a bit surprised that you mention that bot crap, I am just looking to create an optimal strategy I could follow and not make stupid mistikes/loose value, etc. | ||
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| fjuanl |
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| The optimal strategy depends on who you're playing against. So basically there is no optimal strategy for every situation in a sng | ||
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| Shep |
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If your programming yourself to play certain hands in certain postions the same way, your setting yourself up for failure. Any player that has played with you more than once will have tagged your moves and use them against you. Poker is 'feel' game. It constantly changes. You need to understand a little about changing gears at the game to be able to understand why you should not program your hands. Also, the ability to read betting strategies online is a gift that not all players have. If you get up against someone who can read those tells, your in for trouble. At a beginners level, limiting the hands you play is definatly a plus, but as you gain experince, you'll expand your knowledge as well as the number of hands you play preflop. Good luck, -Shep! |
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{solicitation removed by Xianti}
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| taipan168 |
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Quote:
Whilst the strategy that you have outlined would probably allow you to have a positive ROI at lower buyin SNGs (because it's tight and pretty aggressive when the biggest failing of most new players is simply playing too many hands too passively) it does not mean that it is the optimal way to play. The only way to learn this is through experience over many thousands or tens of thousands of hands. What makes it harder is that correct decisions do not immediately result in positive outcomes. For example, it's folded to you in the SB with 99, blinds are 100/200, your stack is 1300, BB has 1400 and you shove all in, BB shows KK, you don't spike a 9, you're out. This DOESN'T mean your decision was incorrect. Conversely, making horrible decisions can sometimes yield nice results, eg. full table, blinds 50/100, your stack 1400, you limp in from UTG with A2 soooted, all fold to button who raises to 400, blinds fold, and you call. Flop comes all your suit, all the money goes in on the flop and you just pwn Button's AA. The only way is to play lots and lots of hands - but the good news is that the learning process can be sped up by posting hands and tourneys on FTR. Good luck! (or should I say, good skill). |
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| drmcboy |
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I was not worried you were actually programming a bot, I was trying to make the point that you are not a bot and so this list is not going to be very helpful. Better would be to write out a basic plan for each hand type at a couple different levels with some comments about what might influence your decision (see NLHE T&P). The idea is not to use it while you play, but train your brain so you automatically process as much info as you can before each play. This list basically only considers your cards and opp's action - nothing about stack sizes (easily the most important part of any SNG hand), image, previous hands seen/played... etc. You could start by finding the many ways that strategy is horrible. Or, toss it out and read HOH. |
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