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Table selection at $2nl

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OngBonga

08-01-2010, 01:33 PM Post subject: Table selection at $2nl

#1 (permalink)

Full House

Join Date: Jul 2010

Location: England

Posts: 1,053

I've just fired $20 into stars and the grind has begun (up to $27 after three days!). But before I even see a hand, I already have one important decision to make... and it's not particularly simple! When choosing a table, and a seat, there seem to be more factors to take in than when I'm against a shove!

So what am I looking for? Normally, I just find a table of 8 with a larger average pot size and take a seat, moving if I find a maniac has position on me, but what more can I do to gain an edge? I admit Im not putting a great deal of effot in up to this point when finding a table (this thread is my attempt to change that fact!), I'm just itching to get some hands played, but I'm definitely finding that sometimes I'm at a bad seat at a good table, I might have some useful notes about someone who has pos on me or the table is full of loose-passive fish with one maniac to my left. Is it in my interests to stick around and hope for a better seat in half an hour or so? Or maybe the maniac will bust out soon, hopefully to my beautifully played top set.

What about shorts? We want them to have pos on us, yes? What about when they bust out and someone new sits down in position against us? Maybe we were having a great time until the tight passive donk that was sat to our left finally got bored and an aggro deep stack took his seat. What now? Move? But we were dominant!

Is it the case that a great table can become a terrible table with one new player?

Recognising the time to leave is another important aspect of table selection, something that is probably a massive leak in mine and many other 2nl players' games. The temptation to stick around and try and win back that $2 you lost to the donk with the gutshot can be as overwhelming as the desire to hurt him, is this all the more reason to leave? I often see players leave a table after a bad beat, is this tilt control?

Clearly, there's more to poker than simply two cards, I think when seeking to improve, one must start with the very first decision you will face. If every table I am sat at is suited to my preferences, then it can only help me win more money. I just need help fine-tuning those preferences!

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celtic123

08-01-2010, 01:56 PM

#2 (permalink)

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Join Date: Jun 2008

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this might help.

Online Poker Table Selection - No Limit Texas Holdem Table Selection

tuuk2

08-01-2010, 02:07 PM

#3 (permalink)

Flush

Join Date: Jan 2009

Location: East Hartford

Posts: 296

Congrats on the good start! Hope it continues. You seem to have some basic knowledge already, so I'll add a little to table selection theory. I mostly play 6-max at 5/10 and 10/25, but it still applies to full ring as well.

First thing I do when looking for a table is the number of players per flop. To me, that is the most important factor. Specifically, I want a table where that number is 50% or more, if possible. The more people who see the flop, the better chance I have of making money. If only 10-15% of the people are seeing the flop, it's an indication that the table is tight and making money there will be difficult. It is true that you'll get called a lot more when you raise at these tables, but as long as you've got a decent hand, this will only help in the long run. You want people to call your premium hands.

The average pot is less useful since it could mean that there was one huge pot followed by a bunch of small ones. For instance, say two donks get it in with $5 a piece. Then the next 3 pots are folded around to the BB. The average pot is $2.52. I almost wish there was a way to see the median pot instead. That might be more useful.

The last stat they use (this is all on pokerstars by the way) is number of hands per hour. This tells you how fast a table is. If it's a ridiculously high number (such as 125/hr at full ring) then you can ascertain that there's no a whole lot of action going on. A really low number means that you've got some slow players or there's a lot of pots going to the river. I don't look at this number much since I mainly play fast tables.

In answer to your other questions, I like to take the seat to the left of the big stack, if possible. Honestly, it doesn't really matter at the 1/2 level. Just take a seat and start taking the donks' money. I would prefer to be to the left of any hyper aggressive player or one who likes to see a lots of flops. I want position on those types. There is some good stuff in the strategy section of FTR on this. You should take a look.

Lastly, you are correct that learning to leave a table is a huge aspect of table selection. People who chase after their losses tend to lose even more. Make sure you have a stop loss in place and try not to violate it, no matter how much you know you can get that donk if only you got the right cards.

OngBonga

08-01-2010, 03:04 PM

#4 (permalink)

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Join Date: Jul 2010

Location: England

Posts: 1,053

Between the link and post, I've got a great place to start.

"People who chase after their losses tend to lose even more."

This is so critical. The thing is, if I get that moron to call a 75% pot size bet with a gutshot, why the hell do I want to leave the table? I'll take that call all day. But the real problem is when you feel like you want to get him back with dirty tactics, ie call your gutshot when you're priced out or raise his blind with junk... but of course, it does the opposite, because naturally you miss and fold, giving him even more of your money. Dealing with tilt is crucial, if you can't deal with tilt then I think you've just gotta leave the table and go make a cup of tea or whatever. When I feel like I'm about to explode, I tighten the f up and rant like crazy in the chat bar. It makes me feel better. When I'm out of steam (usually after two or three hands), then I can play my A-game again and try and get that mf to call his weak draws some more. Either that or I roll a joint, go talk to the dog, make some toast, whatever, anything to stop me raising that moron's blind with my 83o, which incidentally I've had three times in five hands since he hit that straight. AAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!

I've fallen victim to tilt enough times, as has every poker player, and occasionally it actually results in you winning more money, but that lures some people into a false sense of security... they think because tilt was once good, it's a skill that can be mastered. There's skill in making the others think you're on tilt, but not actually being on tilt.

Deciding whether to leave a table after a bad beat or two is a difficult choice, especially if you're pissed off, but if you've got people constantly calling draws at bad prices and limping in with junk, then maybe sitting a hand or three out while you have a rant is better than leaving. Fish love to think they can take advantage of a player on tilt, so if you're lucky enough to pick up a monster just after a rant, you might get ace rag call a shove, especially from the gutshot fish who wants to "finish you off".

Thanks for the replies, I'm gonna put some of this into practise and see how I get on.

Outlaw

08-01-2010, 03:30 PM

#5 (permalink)

Full House

Join Date: Nov 2007

Posts: 1,033

First off, if you are serious about poker.. get the free trial for HEM and use the simple HUD. VPIP/PFR/AF%.

Sit at a table with the highest VPIP possible and start playing. After 20 hands look around the table/tables. Here is an example of a great table with the Hero being in the Jesus seat:

Notes: Deep stacked fish are directly to your right, the nits are to your left, and the LAAGs are across the table from you. Get ready to get rich if this table doesn't break too fast.

By the way, the top line of my HUD is VPIP/PFR/AGFQ%/W$WSF

Which basically means, the two morons to your right play 35%-50% of pots, are only aggressive both preflop and postflop with the nuts, AND only win 1/4 of the pots they play

CHA CHING

Also feel free to steal blinds at will if folded to you (at 2NL lol)

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Table selection at $2nl

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