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The transition from NL to limit, help needed!
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larsmars
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05-29-2007, 07:19 PM
Post subject: The transition from NL to limit, help needed!
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#1 (permalink)
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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Background: I'm a NL short handed cash game "expert". This month I've been trying my luck a bit at tourneys, and I just won a satelite to the WSOP 2007 main event. Also included in the package was a limit event. I've never played limit before. Donked away a couple of hundred playing 10/20 earlier today having absolutely no idea as to why i was losing. At least I'm now pretty confident about the rules.
Anyway, I've been browsing the web and found quite a few articles online on moving from limit to no-limit, and I've been trying to read these "backwards" for the last couple of hours. Only found a couple on moving the other way, though. I know there are some players in here who have started out playing no-limit and then gone to limit. Any input from you guys would be great.
I guess I need to tighten up my pre-flop play a lot. I am absolutely clueless as to how and when to enter the pot with small pairs and SCs. Also, i could really use some general guide lines on blind play. My river play needs a lot of work, but i realize that it's harder to give general advice in this area. Basically I think I need to be less afraid of betting tpnk kind of hands for value and probably make some more desperation bluffs.
Sorry for the vauge and broad nature of this post, but I only have one month to learn this game and I need a place to start.
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bigspenda73
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pwnsylvania
Posts: 7,545
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you're playing full ring limit?
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larsmars
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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Yeah, I didn't quite know where to post this. There aren't that many full ring limit tables going on the site where I play, but as long as there are I'll be playing full ring to try to prepare for the tourney.
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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Well, I'm no good at NL, so it would be tough for me to explain the differences well. Post some HH.
Pick up "Weight the Odds" by King Yao or "Hold'em Poker for Advanced Players" by David Sklansky. Those are two pretty good reads for the games/stakes you are trying to transition to.
And post some HH!!
In general, you could:
- Open Raise: 99+ from EP, 77+ from MP, 55+ from LP
- If players have already limped is ok to limp with: 77+ from MP, sometimes smaller pp from late position (but typically only with several limpers)
- Against a Raise, Re-raise TT+ from any position.
Other than than, if I can't open raise or re-raise my pocket pairs, I'm typically looking to call and see the flop anytime I think I'm going to have about 5:1 odds on my preflop call for set value. (i.e. A raise and a coldcall will result in 5:1 odds for me to call if I'm in the BB. Or if 3 people have already limped and I'm in a later position, I can usually expect the SB to call and see a flop.) If I don't think I'm going to get 5:1, either because there won't be enough limpers or I fear a raise behind me that will kill my pf odds, I'm going to get out of the way.
As far as SC'ers, play them kind of like you would your pp. Middle suited connectors can be open raised from late position or limped from late position if you can get in cheap with decent pot odds. Lower suited connectors should be limped in from late position with good odds.
You can't expect to get the postflop/implied odds from when you hit big with pp or sc like you can in NL. You need to make sure you have enough of a head start pre-flop with good preflop pot odds.
PS Congrats on your WSOP satellite wins. Keep us posted!
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bigspenda73
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pwnsylvania
Posts: 7,545
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I would just buy small stakes limit holdem by Sklansky/Miller and read it a few times before you go play. I cannot see a limit donkament playing too tough.
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by bigspenda73
I would just buy small stakes limit holdem by Sklansky/Miller and read it a few times before you go play. I cannot see a limit donkament playing too tough.
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The only reason I didn't suggest that is because I imagine he has a decent grasp of the game and he needs to transition very fast to Limit for WSOP in June, and he was trying to transition to 10/20 Limit online. Also, he probably won't be playing at tables with a bunch of loose/passive players where SSHE Preflop strategy works well. However, I am in no position to comment on the level of play at a WSOP Limit (or other) Tourny.
But bigsplenda is right, larsmars. SSHE is a good read. But I didn't think the preflop play is well suited for the games you are trying to beat. However, if you have time, it is worth the read.
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Andypandy
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Straight
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Middle of Norway
Posts: 154
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Buy a bot!
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bigspenda73
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pwnsylvania
Posts: 7,545
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by NWNewell
Quote:
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Originally Posted by bigspenda73
I would just buy small stakes limit holdem by Sklansky/Miller and read it a few times before you go play. I cannot see a limit donkament playing too tough.
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The only reason I didn't suggest that is because I imagine he has a decent grasp of the game and he needs to transition very fast to Limit for WSOP in June, and he was trying to transition to 10/20 Limit online. Also, he probably won't be playing at tables with a bunch of loose/passive players where SSHE Preflop strategy works well. However, I am in no position to comment on the level of play at a WSOP Limit (or other) Tourny.
But bigsplenda is right, larsmars. SSHE is a good read. But I didn't think the preflop play is well suited for the games you are trying to beat. However, if you have time, it is worth the read.
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Yea, I am referring to the WSOP tournament not to the 10/20 game.
To beat the 10/20 game would take a lot of work on your part and a lot of reading/calculations/experience, etc...
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larsmars
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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Ok, so I'll move down a level or two and save myself some money. I'll see if I can find SSHE somewhere and read it at work tomorrow. NWN, when you say re-raise TT+, what hands do you typically re-re-raise? What about AK, AQ? Thanks for the advice, guys, please keep it coming.
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by larsmars
Ok, so I'll move down a level or two and save myself some money. I'll see if I can find SSHE somewhere and read it at work tomorrow.  NWN, when you say re-raise TT+, what hands do you typically re-re-raise? What about AK, AQ? Thanks for the advice, guys, please keep it coming.
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Yeah, SSHE is very good over all. But I would also probably try to pick up Weighing the Odds by King Yao and take a look that as well if you have the time. Take a look at the starting hand section to see about how to adjust your starting hand requirements depending on your competition and table style. SSHE will tell you in general, that if the tables are tighter and more aggressive that you will have to adjust (less limping/calling with suited and connectors, more raising with high cards). But it doesn't address exactly how/what to elminate. Weighing the Odds or Hold'em Poker for Advanced Players will give you a target, or gauge, to see how/what you should be adjusting to if you find the Limit Tourny tighter or tougher than expected.
With that said, I have pretty tight standards against PFR only. I rarely (and I mean very, very, very rarely) coldcall. As a standard, I re-raise with TT+, AKs, AKo from any position. And occationally 99 & AQs from later positions especially if the PFR comes from a later position.
Also, you could maybe add AQo, AJs and KQs from CO or Button if you are up against a later position raiser that seems pretty aggressive (i.e. lower raising standards)
And for that matter, if you are up against a very light raiser, you could also re-raise with 88-99 & AQs from any position; ATs-AJs, ATo & KQs from later positions. But only do this on occation if you have a good read that the PFR raises too much. Don't get carried away with this or you will be leaking a lot of money.
However, if you are up against a raiser and a caller (s) (or limpers that will call the raise), this changes things as well. I don't re-raise as many hands, typically only JJ+, AKs, AKo. I'll occationally coldcall with AQs & TT and the like. But these situations can be boarderline and sticky at times. Don't get carried away with coldcalling!!
Basically stick to re-raising TT+, AKs, AKo in general, only occationally open up a little from later positions if you think the PFR isn't raising a strong hand, and avoid coldcalling, you'll be in pretty good shape.
Also, just FYI.... from my experiences at the the lower limits I play. Online Limit is like 5x-10x tougher than live. I usually play 3/6-6/12 (and have played as high as 10/20 several times) and I think these live stakes have been easier than most $1/$2 online games. So, don't be afraid to play something like $3/$6 on-line in preperation for live games (although this disparity may shrink a little at the WSOP Tourny... can't say)
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larsmars
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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Played some 2/4 full ring and 5/10 short handed last night (as these were the only games going).
Haven't picked up the books you guys recommended yet, but I read Jennifer Harman's chapter on limit in Super System II and found that very helpfull. By the way, Super System II is free to read at Doyle's Room:
http://www.doylespokerroom.com/poker/poker_online.cfm
(thanks pokerromance for that link)
Oh, and thanks for the 5:1 on small PPs, NWN, just the kind of stuff I was looking for.
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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Cool. Post some Hand Histories where you have questions.
Which limit event are you playing in?
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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sorry to chime in late. oh, and newell can vouch for me, that i am by no means a limit "expert."
but..
i started in NL and have switched/dabbled with limit. here is what i have learned (more conceptual than technical).
1) when the table has several limpers/cold-callers in front of you, be less inclined to raise w/ off-suited power cards...they arent going anywhere for "one more," and you arent going to "thin the field" here. however, definitely raise and start to bloat the pot w/ AXs, sc's things that benefit from lots of players and big pots.
2) protect your vulnerable hands w/ aggression. leading out doesnt do the trick here. if you play a raised pot (say 8sb's) and lead out for 1 sb on the flop, you didnt do squat. you need to check (hoping for a c/r). if others check, fine. if one to your immediate left raises, depending on the others, you may call/fold. if the player to your right raises, now you may c/r to protect. force the others to call 2 sb's cold. if all check, wait for the bets to double on the turn, and lead out there.
3) pots over 10 BBs should rarely be folded to on the river. make your decision (for the most part) on the flop as to whether or not the situation warrants seeing more cards or protecting or simply folding for a better opportunity. is this pot going to get big? how many players are in? are any calling cold? can i get anyone to fold? how much do i need to improve to have a good shot at winning? can i get paid off if that happens?
obviously, SH limit allows you to break off odds better than a loose fr game. you may dabble there first. as a NL player, i like to take away odds, and SH limit allows me to do that more effectively, while learning, than fr. however, your mistakes will be magnified, i believe this is offset a bit by your NL "instincts."
4) think multi-way all the time. if you do not do well multi-way, start asking yourself if it will be possible to control the pot size and protect your hand if you hit. in other words, start looking for opportunities to thin the field, immediatley. raise AQo if it forces others to call more than one bet. hell, you may 3bet it if the player to your right raises a limped pot...again forcing others to call 2 cold. however, you may scale back the raising when you hold AQs. in limit, it often takes more than one salvo to isolate opponents, and most times you still will have trouble getting HU. 3ways is ok, but still aim for HU w/o a redraw.
5) look for redraws. backdoor draws, in limit, are much more valuable than NL...because your opponents cannot break off you odds, pot or implied, very easily either. say you hit TPGK with a OESD and a backdoor flush...this is a monster holding in a limit game. its TP where you're not afraid to raise a bet in NL. big difference.
again, i am by no means an expert in limit, and play lower than 1/2 (so, that may change things for you, too), but conceptually, those are some things i have learned that made sense to me...a NL player by trade.
buy, SSHE and Hold 'Em for Advanced Players. play a lot. play cheaper. yes, 3/6 at a B&M is like .25/.50 online...save your bankroll.
and good luck.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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euphoricism
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4-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Your place or my place
Posts: 3,610
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There are some limit tournaments spread on stars, I believe. Play them.
The problem with them is that as the blinds get bigger there is absolutely no room for postflop play. This of course takes out a large portion of the skill in LHE. It becomes a gambling game decided by who flops the best hands when the blinds get big.
I believe Jeff played an LHE tourn at the WSOP - PM elipsesjeff and ask for his experiences.
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larsmars
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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I'll be playing in event 53, Limit Hold'em shootout (as well as the main event). Good thing you asked, because I didn't notice it was a shootout and I don't know wtf a shootout is. Anybody?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Chopper
1) when the table has several limpers/cold-callers in front of you, be less inclined to raise w/ off-suited power cards...they arent going anywhere for "one more," and you arent going to "thin the field" here. however, definitely raise and start to bloat the pot w/ AXs, sc's things that benefit from lots of players and big pots.
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And if you don't raise, you'll be able to give drawing hands worse odds post-flop if you hit, since the pot will be smaller? During my first session I raised KQ from the BB after a ton of limpers. Everybody called of course. I kinda figured it wasn't the best move. When you say raise AXs and SCs, do you mean in position (or also from the blinds)? Good stuff, as this is more or less the opposite of your basic NL strategy.
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by larsmars
I'll be playing in event 53, Limit Hold'em shootout (as well as the main event). Good thing you asked, because I didn't notice it was a shootout and I don't know wtf a shootout is. Anybody?
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All tables are played down to one player, then that one player moves on to a new full table, then the new tables play down to one remaining player, and all the remaining players move onto a third full table.
It is basically winning a bunch of single table tournaments in a row. Winner moves on to the next table, and the next table, until there is only one table and one winner left.
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by larsmars
I'll be playing in event 53, Limit Hold'em shootout (as well as the main event). Good thing you asked, because I didn't notice it was a shootout and I don't know wtf a shootout is. Anybody?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Chopper
1) when the table has several limpers/cold-callers in front of you, be less inclined to raise w/ off-suited power cards...they arent going anywhere for "one more," and you arent going to "thin the field" here. however, definitely raise and start to bloat the pot w/ AXs, sc's things that benefit from lots of players and big pots.
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And if you don't raise, you'll be able to give drawing hands worse odds post-flop if you hit, since the pot will be smaller? During my first session I raised KQ from the BB after a ton of limpers. Everybody called of course. I kinda figured it wasn't the best move. When you say raise AXs and SCs, do you mean in position (or also from the blinds)? Good stuff, as this is more or less the opposite of your basic NL strategy.
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again, i aint no expert here. but...
yes, if the pot limps, you have KQo and you raise late...there may be 8sb's in the pot when the flop comes. and, if you hit TPGK (from NL you get all hopped up thinking you have this one in the bag)... so, you bet out, and everyone w/ 6+ outs can call you HU. do the math...you are laying 8:1, not to mention the overcallers. if it calls around, you could be giving 11:1 to the last caller...who wont call that? and it was all YOUR fault for raising your hand in the wrong spot.
as a generality (keeping in mind, "it depends"), if others limp into you, and your hand goes well multi-way...this is when you bloat the pot...no one is leaving.
its when the table folds to you...or you have lots of others to still act, that you raise your offsuit power cards...when you can FORCE the remaining to call 2 bets cold. that will tend to "thin the field" on an average table of donkeys.
so, to answer the reply... if i hold KQo and the pot limps around to me, either late position or blinds, i will refrain from raising all but the best holdings. why? exactly, to keep the pot as small as possible. when i hit the flop, i still may not bet (dont want to lead a small bet into a bunch of call stations...again, it bloats the pot for the draws)...either c/r (more on that in a minute), or wait until the turn (if possible) when the bet sizes double. if you have a 6 sb pot on the flop, it becomes a 3 BB pot on the turn...instantly. now you bet to PROTECT your hand. you bet out from the blind, and you are forcing the first guy to call 3:1...he needs a lot of outs to draw profitably. see the difference? if you would have bet the flop, you would have laid 6:1...allowing fewer outs (weaker draws) to keep playing. and you would wonder on the river, "why is this asshole still in the hand with that?" again, it would have been YOUR fault..you allowed it by betting in the wrong spot, imo.
about the c/r...if oop, with KQo again, and you hit the flop...you check. the others check, but the guy one or two spots to your right bets...you now RAISE. why? to force the others to you left (that checked) to call two cold bets. thus, thinning the field...or charging a premium to call.
with all i said, it is important to remember that you still must think you are ahead in the hand, or can win it with aggression. dont make the move for the sake of making a move.
now, with sc's and AXs...these CAN be such good hands multiway, that if i am at a table that will let me play these hands passively...maybe the first few rounds of a tourney when the blinds dont mean too much to people...i will bloat a pot with them. in position, maybe oop if the table will let me get away with it, but mostly in position, yes. and to several players.
if i see a pot get raised early and cold-called by several others, will i 3bet to further bloat? no. let the idiots stay idiots for calling 2 cold. they have already called 2, if you 3bet, you now run the risk of driving away future business (others still to act that may also have cold-called behind you)...but more importantly you will now be GIVING ODDS again to a bunch of crap and now shooting yourself in the foot. let me be a little more clear...
say you have A8s in the CO. UTG open limps, 3 callers, and you raise. good job. these 4 aint goin anywhere, and the big blind prolly aint with these odds either. you got a 6 way pot for 12 sb's and we havent seen the flop yet. good job. sidebar: with 12 sb's you can stay in a profitable hand a lot longer than if you hadn't raised and it was only 6 sb's. you may get to the river with this one. see the difference you made by raising? also, do you see the difference that would have made AGAINST you if you held AJo? you want the 6 sb pot with AJo, imo. easier to protect your TPTK there. but i digress...
back to A8s...say UTG raises, 3 call the raise cold, and you 3bet to bloat. OOPS! look at what you just did. first, the big blind prolly aint coming along (lost one customer for your draw), and if UTG doesnt cap (which you kinda hope he does, but kinda hope he doesnt), the 3 callers only need to call ONE MORE SMALL BET to see the flop. you recreated great odds for them. they already called two cold. the first one was originally getting even money (minus blinds), but now that the pot is 12 sb's and he only has to call 1 more sb...he is effectively getting 12:1 now. it kinda bails out his crap...making it correct to call with almost anything. can you imagine a swing from even money to 12:1 before you've even seen cards? you will never see that in a NL game. again, look at the crap you are allowing into the hand by raising in the wrong spots.
hope that helps instead of confuses you more.
somebody (newell) blast me if i am way off base here.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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As far as not raising your high off-suit cards if there are a lot of limpers. You are on the right track. I always raise AK and AQ. AJ and KQ can be called or raised in later positions. They don't play well in multi-way pots, so you are probably/possibly giving up some EV by raising instead of just calling preflop. But if your raise buys you the button, it will make post flop play easier and offer more options (4-card flop, free-card-raise, etc). IMO this will often make up for anything you might loose with your PFR. So, you can occasionally raise AJ and KQ if your opponents are passive postflop. Off-suit hands below,that I'm usually just calling against multiple limpers.
Be careful with raising Ax and suited connectors. Yes, they play well in multi-way pots, but only if the flop fits your hand. I don't like to invest too much preflop with these hands. Want and see if the texture of the flop is favorable before you invest too much.
With 2-3 limpers, and you limping, along with the BB, you are going to have a pretty good size pot already and people well probably go to far as it is when you hit a favorable hand. You don't need to pump the pot preflop.
Keep in mind, we want people to make mistakes! Most of our opponents are going to draw/call on the flop regardless if it is unraised (with 4-6:1 odds) or raised (with 8-9:1 odds). By keeping the pot small, more of our opponents will be making a mistake (and bigger mistakes at that). Allow our opponents the opportunity to make mistakes (the bigger the better).
When our opponents make mistakes we prosper. Give your opponents the opportunity to let your prosper!!
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Ragnar4
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Full House
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,284
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Shootout, 6 men enter, only the winner of that table goes to the next table.
Chopper is giving some pretty good advice about offsuit holdings. Wonder where he got the advice from???
Anyway. With AXs Don't ALWAYS be inclined to raise to bloat the pot. Sadly, if a smart player pops you back, and another player gets frisky, you actually don't have the odds to call 2 bets cold again after having commited the 2 bets in the first place. Unless ALL 5 people at the table are in for 4 bets. In fact, unless the table is amazingly passive, be inclined to limp a lot and fold if you miss. Also if you catch your ace with a5, you probably aren't ahead, and there's no amount of betting you can do that will drive AT off. He'll pay off, calling one bet each time. 2pair or better for AXs. You can also, sometimes, limip AXs from early. That's the only suited holding you should limp from early, and ONLY if the table is pretty passive.
Remember, since the game is going to lose one player and then be shorthanded until the winner moves on, Stealing blinds will be extremely important. I'm not certain on the range at 5 players. But I know this. Rutheless, cold, silly aggression is the way to win. Get a good hand and play it like aces as long as you catch one pair.
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The older I get, the more I start wondering; Just what in the hell is going on here?
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larsmars
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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Chopper, that wasn't confusing at all, in fact it was extremely well explained. Both you and Newell are really helping me out, thanks a lot guys.
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Originally Posted by Ragnar4
Remember, since the game is going to lose one player and then be shorthanded until the winner moves on, Stealing blinds will be extremely important. I'm not certain on the range at 5 players. But I know this. Rutheless, cold, silly aggression is the way to win. Get a good hand and play it like aces as long as you catch one pair.
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Yeah, that makes sense. Shootout sounds kinda stressful. Guess I gotta start playing some HU to get some practice.
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by larsmars
Yeah, that makes sense. Shootout sounds kinda stressful. Guess I gotta start playing some HU to get some practice.
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I think playing a bunch of limit sit 'n goes would help too
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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i forgot to source ragnar4 with the offsuit broadways comments.
i kinda knew it, but his explanation did help me understand in a way that i could pass it along. many thanks.
and, btw, to us NL players, lars, the concept of "buying the button" is dramatically underused over on our side of the hold 'em spectrum. important? yes, very.
but in limit...its a critical concept to understand.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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oops, one more thing.
hey "experts."
if its not always correct to raise in late position w/ sc's and AXs...
dont you lose some profitability with other stuff? when i show i am raising nut draws and hidden str8 hands, i tend to get a bunch of action (3bets and the like). doesnt that help me cap w/ AA? doesnt that offset some of my equity in KQo (to quote another post)? maybe not KQo, but maybe AQo.
what i am asking is...isnt this a LAGGy move pf? arent i buying better action for my premiums? and when i hit my heater, and everything comes together, my draws are paying premium, too?
certainly by raising sc's/AXs this offsets some of the equity edge i lose when raising AJo and JJ. dissenting thoughts (i know you two are revving one up)?
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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Chopper, your comments are valid.
If you are labled as more of a LAGG, you will probably get more action from good hands. But if you always raise you will be giving up too much (the number of opportunities to raise Axs and SCs, and such will probably far out way your opportunities to get action with power hands). So don't do it all the time.
Pick your spots to do it occasionally. Like perhaps try this when up against only weak players so you can make up ground post flop. And hopefully the better players that are sitting out of the hand will notice.
But don't get carried away.
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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newell, i am not a LAG, although i am trying to think like one, at times.
i used to be a classic nitty TAG, but i have opened up my game, to buy action with better hands.
on the NL side, i like to "hide behind limpers." when someone open-limps, i like to play all sorts of shit behind them for cheap. sc's, gappers, KXs+. sometimes 2-gappers.
when these hit, it really opens up my image...to the table, and allows me to play my premiums harder. granted, any "thinking" player would be on to me quickly, as i am transparent. i raise my premiums, and limp my shit. but, whatever, until i find players that adjust to me, i will continue to run 28/8/2.5 at your standard NL table.
however, this is easy to transfer to limit because, from what i gather, limit is made for limping pf, and playing post-flop. which is why i am getting so much from playing limit...cheaply.
its also, simply more fun to play more hands. it keeps you alert, and focused. not to mention how much your "reads" will improve.
and if your win rate doesnt suffer...mine has actually gone way up, then maybe you stumbled on something about yourself?
anyway, by "opening up," i can see what it does for your premiums...which is why i asked about offsetting. of course, you dont want to be predictable..true.
but again, how predictable are you when a good, honest thought would blow your opponents heads wide open?
ooooh, the mess that would create. lol.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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I agree with everything you said.
It does translate well to limit.
I just wouldn't be raising those hands too much. And keep in mind, your implied odds are nothing in limit compared to NL. So, the best way to improve your implied odds in limit is to get into the flop cheap when you've already got decent pot odds preflop.
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larsmars
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by NWNewell
Quote:
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Originally Posted by larsmars
Yeah, that makes sense. Shootout sounds kinda stressful. Guess I gotta start playing some HU to get some practice.
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I think playing a bunch of limit sit 'n goes would help too
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Yes, of course. I just had an image in my head of Phil Ivey sitting at my table, and the demoralization of knowing that I would have to beat him HU just to get to the second table.
Great discussion on pre-flop play. What about medium PPs after limpers? Say you are on the button at a fairly competent table. 3 limpers. What PPs do you typically raise? TT+? Same table and you are on the BB. 5 limpers, including the SB. Now what? JJ+?
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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This where it gets boarder line. 3+ limpers I'll usually just often just call TT. With 4+ limpers I'll often just call JJ. Reason being is that these PP start to have too many over cards (not only overcards, other draws too. But the added overs make the difference between JJ/TT and QQ+, IMO) and the chance of them holding up becomes too slim to make worth the raise, IMO.
However, if you have position and can have the button for the rest of the hand this obviously adds value and may make it worth the raise.
If you are in the blinds and have 5+ limpers I would raise (but still for set value) there are so may people and it only costs you 1sb to make it a 10sb pot. But if there were only 3-4 limpers I'm in the blinds (especially SB) I probably just call. I don't like being out postision with JJ or TT because of what I mentioned above.
But this is a very debatable and situation by some.
http://www.flopturnriver.com/phpBB2/...oker-55535.htm
Some feel JJ should be blindly raises at any point. I don't think it is terrible or a necessarily a loosing play. But there are situations as described above where I don't think it is best.
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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i gotta admit...coming from NL, i have been on tables that are sooo loose/passive that you shouldnt play JJ for anything other than set value.
JJ aint that great when a Q+ hits and you have 4+ guys interested in the pot. so, why raise it, if you KNOW ahead of time that these guys are playing a lot of KX and AX hands?
easier, in NL, to see the flop cheap and get aggro post flop when you spike your J and they cant get off their A-rag.
that one translates VERY well to limit.
however, occasionally do whatever the hell you want. open raise 33, especially in a 6max table that is tight. and limp AKs when folded to.
but like i said...occasionally.
to me, 66-JJ are usually set hunters only. with the exception that i will play JJ in very short-handed pots, thereby abandoning the previously mentioned "Newell rewell of thumb" that you need 5:1 to set hunt. with JJ, i dont need 5:1, imo. if i get less, i raise for power. TT, i am not so sure. at least thats where i draw MY line...usually.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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bigspenda73
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pwnsylvania
Posts: 7,545
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You raise JJ b/c an overcard doens't come 1/2 the time and if you are in a pot with 3 others you're making money off each one of their PF calls.
Trust me, once you post flop play gets better and better you'll actually be opening more and more hands PF.
Also, don't open 33 UTG/MP in a 6max game, that's a horrid hand for the type of play it takes to win those games, never limp AKs. I haven't read much of this thread as I really am getting tired of PF discussions.
Call me back in here when a good postflop discussion gets going, k thx.
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by bigspenda73
You raise JJ b/c an overcard doens't come 1/2 the time and if you are in a pot with 3 others you're making money off each one of their PF calls.
Trust me, once you post flop play gets better and better you'll actually be opening more and more hands PF.
Also, don't open 33 UTG/MP in a 6max game, that's a horrid hand for the type of play it takes to win those games, never limp AKs. I haven't read much of this thread as I really am getting tired of PF discussions.
Call me back in here when a good postflop discussion gets going, k thx.
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yeah, pretty sure i said...occasionally.
its never wise to do either, but it will loosen your image if you can show that stupidity off...or take AT along for the ride when he never suspects you would do that with AKs.
sometimes you gotta go against the grain, imo.
and, spenda, if this discussion is beneath you, by all means go back to your MENSA society meeting. sorry we are all so stoopid down here.
no need to insult our intelligence.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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Ragnar4
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Full House
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,284
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Spenda is kinda right.
In NL, Preflop is crucial because you really can't get into a hand and a giant game of chicken for all your money without a premium holding. Thats why PF is so important. It's too bad Spenda has such a crude way of putting it.
In Limit. Post flop is the key to the game. What he's forgotten is that it takes competent play preflop in order to give yourself the freedom to play postflop.
That's why you don't raise big offsuit holdings out of the BB with 4 other limpers. You've hamstrung yourself until the Turn at the earliest, when those kind of hands don't want to make it out of the flop.
That's why you don't always raise AXs from late or the button. IF you did every time, they would catch wise. But it won't bite you in the butt until you raise with AA, and 6 people cold call you, and one clown re-raises. You'll stick in all the way down, But I guarantee you. You'll lose a lot more money than you'll make putting in 3 bets 6 ways with AA all the way to the river even if all 6 other players are holding 2 random cards.
By raising with AXs every time you catch it, you'll get that kind of action on your premium hands.
TT, JJ should almost always be raised if you're opening the pot from MP, or LP. If 4 guys limp though, you're back to set value. Because you cannot protect your hand even if you end up with the top pair. Sure you can look it up all the way down. As long as you think everyone is weak.
Although, in a shootout. I'm gonna be honest, the "if it's worth playing, it's worth a raise" argument comes into its own. But only if you're the first guy into the pot.
To whit, in a shootout, I have a feeling most hands are going to go like this:
1) EP raises, everyone folds
MP raises, BB calls. If BB doesn't check/fold on the flop, one player will bet out every street until the river. Where the river will complete some nasty draw. The aggressive player will lead out, and get raised by the, until now, passive player. The aggressive player will have to make a decision, bluff, or he caught his draw. Then decide whether or not to call.
LP will be much like MP. Except
Everyonce in a while, someone from LP will raise and Button and he will get into a war. The message is "don't steal my blinds".
I don't imagine it will be too much more creative than that. Until HU play.
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The older I get, the more I start wondering; Just what in the hell is going on here?
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ragnar4
In Limit. Post flop is the key to the game. What he's forgotten is that it takes competent play preflop in order to give yourself the freedom to play postflop.
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agreed.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ragnar4
That's why you don't raise big offsuit holdings out of the BB with 4 other limpers. You've hamstrung yourself until the Turn at the earliest, when those kind of hands don't want to make it out of the flop.
That's why you don't always raise AXs from late or the button. IF you did every time, they would catch wise. But it won't bite you in the butt until you raise with AA, and 6 people cold call you, and one clown re-raises. You'll stick in all the way down, But I guarantee you. You'll lose a lot more money than you'll make putting in 3 bets 6 ways with AA all the way to the river even if all 6 other players are holding 2 random cards.
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now i see what you were saying earlier. i kinda got it, but this example drove the point home...thank you.
i may "want" the action with my AA, but you are right, 6way action because they think i may be on A3s is a crappy way to start off a hand w/ AA.
obviously, there has to be a balance between drawing action to your premiums, but not too much that you lose all respect from the table.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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all depends on how much respect you are getting.
If you're raises already are getting action and no respect, don't worry about raising Ax, etc.
If you are getting too much respect and no action, then do it hear and there until you get a little.
Find that balance you are talking about.
But if we're debating about raising 3-4 limpers with Ax. There is no need. If you have that many people limping preflop, you'll get your action with AA more often than not.
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by NWNewell
all depends on how much respect you are getting.
If you're raises already are getting action and no respect, don't worry about raising Ax, etc.
If you are getting too much respect and no action, then do it hear and there until you get a little.
Find that balance you are talking about.
But if we're debating about raising 3-4 limpers with Ax. There is no need. If you have that many people limping preflop, you'll get your action with AA more often than not.
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dude, you had me until the last part. then, lost me again.
i get the "good odds" pf w/ AXs and 4 limpers...so no need to raise when we will have odds on the flop.
but, with the same # of limpers when you hold AA, i think i misunderstand the part of getting action. if i raise, again for equity, not thinning (b/c it wont), arent i dragging 4 into the flop in all likelihood? and that aint so good for AA in a limit game. i want it thinned, and if i have position, it will be hard to do on a flushy board. the bets will come out early, and again, i wont be able to thin.
seems my only hope would be if someone closer to my right comes in for an early raise, and i can 3bet quickly? but, then, dont i need to be worried about what is raising on such a drawy board?
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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larsmars
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3-of-a-Kind
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 101
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Chopper
i gotta admit...coming from NL, i have been on tables that are sooo loose/passive that you shouldnt play JJ for anything other than set value.
JJ aint that great when a Q+ hits and you have 4+ guys interested in the pot. so, why raise it, if you KNOW ahead of time that these guys are playing a lot of KX and AX hands?
easier, in NL, to see the flop cheap and get aggro post flop when you spike your J and they cant get off their A-rag.
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You're talking about NL here, right? Make a bigger raise...
Quote:
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Originally Posted by bigspenda73
Also, don't open 33 UTG/MP in a 6max game, that's a horrid hand for the type of play it takes to win those games, never limp AKs. I haven't read much of this thread as I really am getting tired of PF discussions.
Call me back in here when a good postflop discussion gets going, k thx.
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What's MP in a 6 max game? HJ/CO? I understand why it might not be the best idea if the game is loose, but surely it can't be that bad in a tight game? If so, why? By the way, I fully realize why this might not be the most interesting thread to some.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ragnar4
In Limit. Post flop is the key to the game. What he's forgotten is that it takes competent play preflop in order to give yourself the freedom to play postflop.
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That would be the same as in NL. It's hard to "outplay" your opponents in NL if you constantly find yourself with a lukewarm hand lacking both position and initiative.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ragnar4
Although, in a shootout. I'm gonna be honest, the "if it's worth playing, it's worth a raise" argument comes into its own. But only if you're the first guy into the pot.
To whit, in a shootout, I have a feeling most hands are going to go like this:
1) EP raises, everyone folds
MP raises, BB calls. If BB doesn't check/fold on the flop, one player will bet out every street until the river. Where the river will complete some nasty draw. The aggressive player will lead out, and get raised by the, until now, passive player. The aggressive player will have to make a decision, bluff, or he caught his draw. Then decide whether or not to call.
LP will be much like MP. Except
Everyonce in a while, someone from LP will raise and Button and he will get into a war. The message is "don't steal my blinds".
I don't imagine it will be too much more creative than that. Until HU play.
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That pretty much sums up my thoughts as well.
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bigspenda73
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pwnsylvania
Posts: 7,545
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by larsmars
Quote:
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Originally Posted by bigspenda73
Also, don't open 33 UTG/MP in a 6max game, that's a horrid hand for the type of play it takes to win those games, never limp AKs. I haven't read much of this thread as I really am getting tired of PF discussions.
Call me back in here when a good postflop discussion gets going, k thx.
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What's MP in a 6 max game? HJ/CO? I understand why it might not be the best idea if the game is loose, but surely it can't be that bad in a tight game? If so, why? By the way, I fully realize why this might not be the most interesting thread to some.
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OK, about PF. In 6max we're all about high card strength. Anything greater than 1 pair in 6max limit is just icing on the cake. All we want is TPGK and we'll play from there. That has always been my philosophy. That's why KQ plays better than 33 in the game.
The positions for 6max are this: SB BB UTG MP CO/HJ BTN
Im openning 33 from the button and the SB but that's about it. I fold 22-55 UTG/MP/CO in 6max and substitute other offsuit broadways instead.
Also, Im not saying this thread isn't interesting and I sure as hell want to hear how you do when you get back from the tourney. However, PF decision making is such a minute section of hold'em that I try to not focus on it anymore.
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NWNewell
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Flush
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennedy Space Center, FL
Posts: 283
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My point was not specific to AA or whatever.
My point was that you are saying that you should riase Ax so you get noticed as being a little LAGG and get action on your stronger hands.
All I was saying was that if if the table is already loose, you don't need to try to encourage extra action. The pots will typically be big enough.
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Chopper
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Straight Flush
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 4,255
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by larsmars
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Chopper
i gotta admit...coming from NL, i have been on tables that are sooo loose/passive that you shouldnt play JJ for anything other than set value.
JJ aint that great when a Q+ hits and you have 4+ guys interested in the pot. so, why raise it, if you KNOW ahead of time that these guys are playing a lot of KX and AX hands?
easier, in NL, to see the flop cheap and get aggro post flop when you spike your J and they cant get off their A-rag.
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You're talking about NL here, right? Make a bigger raise...
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yes. i was. and in a loose-passive game, why raise JJ and start to commit yourself when you cannot thin out the callers? if i have JJ, and have to open oop for 8X+ just to get it down to 2-3 players...no thank you. the only things calling have me either beat, or have overs making me a 65% fave at best into 2 others? or what if i open and 2 call, and then a RR comes in? you still are powerful enough w/ implied odds on a set to call the RR, but now you are in a very expensive hand with a pp that you would only be confident in if the set hits. i just dont think thats the best spot for your money, when you can still get it by limping and hitting an overpair (where in NL its easier to fold the table on the flop), or god forbid the set. i dont need to win as big a pot when i didnt go crazy with a pfr. just my opinion from lower stakes.
and from lp, i am not opening for 6X + limpers with a hand so enslaved by overcards on a flop. again, if the table is that loose, i'd rather pick some better spots...knowing i will get paid off by a table this loose anyway.
the looser the table is pf, the worse JJ becomes. and the more i lean towards set value, but to each his own.
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LHE is a game where your skill keeps you breakeven until you hit your rush of random BS.
Nothing beats flopping quads while dropping a duece!
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